drew02a

I finally hit the trail this weekend, and I couldn't be happier with the results. The 4Runner walked up and over a bunch of crazy ˟˟˟˟

Adk_Yota

Great pics! def would like to go long travel at some point

eric924run

drew
did you have to use a wheel spacer in the front

drew02a

Nope, not with the LT

When I just had a Ball Joint Spacer lift, the tires rubbed without a spacer, but because of the way the extension bracket for the LT is fabbed, I don't need spacers now.

runnerfreak88

4banger on your chevy springs did you move your spring mounts forwards any or just use the 9 inch shackles and keep the spring mounts in the stock location? This is same thing iv been wanting to do to my truck and was wondering if i could just use longer shackles and not have to do any welding moving the spring mounts forwards.

79pickupian

You MUST move your spring mounts forward unless you want to spend 300 bucks on a custom length driveshaft and have to redo your wheel well, if you move them either 9 or 11 inches forward eye to eye they will be in the stock location. His 9 inch shackles are from our FLAPS, you cannot just use longer shackles, its a bad idea.

Technically the full write up on this swap suggests moving both the front spring perch and the shackle hanger but i digress.

Chevys are great and worth the hassle, the same or more droop than equally set up all pro springs on my friends four runner, my TG 4" lift springs dont droop quite as much as the chevys i believe but its close.

(PS, im the guy who took all the pics of 4bangercraigs truck and helped him set it up haha, not just some mofo out of the blue)

N2Frodn

FWIW, a 1st gen Tundra rear end is 1/2 in wider overall then a Total Chaos kit (same width as Blazeland IIRC).

Trackwidth looks identical unless you really, really stare at it.

Anybody running a 86-89 with a Blazeland kit, late model Tacoma wheels and stock fenders?

Trying to find a less expensive way (not buying another TC kit) to replace the bracket lift on my 87 and I don't wanna go with glass fenders or flares on that truck.

drew02a

The front fenders on that gen are super easy to trim. That should take care of any rubbing.

yotasavg

I love the 2nd gen drew, that's how i want mine to go. Has anybody tried ball joint spacers with the Blazeland kit?

drew02a

Thanks

The kit is already designed to space the Ball Joints down more than stock

ROCKGUARD 1

nice set-up. im gonna do the blazeland kit to very soon. with a soft suspension like this though does it tend to nose-dive on hard quick stopping? also, what is the range of lift you can get? with landcruiser coils in the back lifting 4" - 5' would the front be fairly level?

Red Wagon

Hi all.

I'm about to place an order for this LT kit when Wild West gets back to me. I currently have FJ80 coils in the rear, panhard drop etc, BJ spacers and crank up front..

I also have 35" tires with 5.29 gears and a rear Spartan locker.

The LT kit is a place holder until I get the skill to build another truck myself. It will take awhile to learn but while I do I want to make what I have now more fun and the Blazeland kit looks perfect.

I have a 3.0 and a tube bumper with winch. I want to keep the cost lower as it is not my long term plan so will run tbars. Mine right now are cranked from the PO but he also put in a 3" body lift so I should clear.

I'll also need to get new rims to tuck the rubber back in to the body. I'm moving back to an area that requires fenders to cover. I have a back spacing that pushes the tires out about 3" currently. This was also done by the PO.


So my questions.

What will be the ideal torsion bars to run? I would like to err on the side of stiffer as I get heavy on my long road trips with a RTT and gear. Not too stiff of course.

What would be the best back spacing on rims to clear my 12.50" x 35" radius Goodyear Kevlar MTRS.

Does anyone have the new interco rims at all?



http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/wh...birddog-wheel/


I'm not sure I need traditional bead locks and I'm not sure on their road legality. I DD my 4Runner and cross provincial and state borders in it so don't need police attention for obviously illegal stuff.


Any quirks with this kit I should be aware of?

Thanks!

highonpottery

iTrader: (1)

you can get the BL kit with tbars. they even tell you what size they are if you're looking to source your own, but since it's a kit it will be cheaper than buying individual new parts separately.

as for the wheel backspacing, i think this would be best asked to blazen8 since it's his kit and he might know what his customers are running, and would most likely be able to give tips on which setup works best. so far, it looks to me like the 4runner in this thread has the narrowest front end by running stock toyota wheels from a newer generation. you might be able to get them to tuck further in but the limiting factor for you i think will be whether or not you want to buy new tires in a larger wheel diameter or not since i'm assuming you're running a 35x12.5r15. if you go with a larger wheel, you can put more backspacing on there since there's more room to clear suspension when turning. fender flares or fiberglass prerunner fenders may be your only option for keeping coverage over your rubber.

with regards to beadlocks - there are several brands on the market these days that are DOT approved, so no need to worry about legality anymore if you go that route.

Red Wagon

I'm going to get some fibreglass.

Thanks for the DOT info. I'll ask about that.


I do have a 15" rim. Anything I buy for this truck will end up getting sold later on when the second truck is built at some point.

That one will be planned instead of a hodge podge of things I did as I learnt or things from the PO. Next one will be bone stock.

I have a pair of FJ62 axles for that future project.


Who knows maybe I'll love the LT and just keep it or sell my SAS parts collected.



To the OP, nice 4Runner. I want to do a rear leaf swap as well. I carry heavy loads on trips that the coils don't like over bumpy roads.



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BlazeN8

Red Wagon,

I talked to Tim today and he mentioned he had a guy in NWT looking to get a kit....then I saw this post. Wild West is a great choice to use to obtain a kit especially if you end up driving over the border for to have it installed. Tim is very familiar with the installation and features.

To answer some of your questions, as for Torsion Bars a few customers have gotten a way with cranking in the factory T-bars but realistically you need something with a greater spring rate. The stock ones are 22mm. Rancho used to offer 24mm but I don't believe they are available new these days. You can find them floating around used. The part number is 1632 for the LH and 1633 for the RH. The other brands I mention are listed on the Blazeland website. These are all 25mm. Downey made some 26mm units that are floating around used. Basically the larger the diameter the stiffer the spring. For trail flex soft is good but too soft and you will bottom out the suspension. For pre-running stiff is better. Adjust your selection according to the intended use.

For wheel selection I recommend an 8" wide rim for a 33x12.5 tire. The rim backspace should be about 4" For a smaller tire such as a 31 or 32 a 7" wide rim with a 4.5 backspace works well. I like the factory SR-5 alloy rim for the smaller tires. I really like the rim and tire setup Drew is showing.

I don't know the laws in NWT so make sure you investigate your options. Hope that helps clarify things.

Red Wagon

I already know where to get some glass fenders so that will work out. Wild West recommended the HD bars what diametre are they?

Ill know in the next day if I can go down to get them installed or if I need to get them sent to a shop in Canada. Depends on a passport for the missus. Hers is due soon.

Ill be running 35's on your kit. Already have them. So maybe 4" or 3.75" back spacing?

Thanks for the reply.

Red Wagon

I just took a measurement of my rims.

It looks like I currently run 15" x10" rims with 4" of back spacing.

I get just a little rubbing. When I crawled under the front end it looks like I have about 1" and a half clearance from rubber to tie rod end.

By this chart I would want the 15 x 9 rims with a 4.53" BS. It will get my rubber tucked back in 1/2 inch.

I wonder if it's worth the expense to change rims?

I'm still going to need to clear the tire rod ends so the most I could pull the rubber back in is a 1/2 inch anyway... Maybe I need to look at what fenders will cover first.

BlazeN8

Like i mentioned I am not too familiar with NWT laws but I think a 15x10 will be a bit wide. I'd try it out with the fenders you mentioned and you may be good to go. The HD bars Tim mentioned are probably not brand specific, he was just saying Heavy Duty. That would mean any aftermarket brand that was higher spring rated than factory.

Red Wagon

I'm leaving the NWT for British Columbia. They want the tires covered or at least mostly.

Even if I get the rims that are 9" wide it shouldn't effect the 12.50" wide tire footprint.

I'll figure it out. I'll get the glass and get the 4Runner cleaned up so it won't look like such a heat score.

If I do get an inspection order I'm sure I could find some 10" wide tires to borrow.


Just waiting for the Wild West guy to give me a shout to get my details. He said he has a small shop so I don't want to hassle him.

I'm looking forward to my chance to put your kit through its paces.


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dark_fairytales

This is the stance of my 86 with 35x12.50's on 10 inch rims with 3.75 backspacing. over all, the tire stuckout 6" beyond the fender. Another note to keep in mine, I had a 3" body lift, which at full compression and steering locked, there was about an inch to spare before the tire would contact the fender.