My 63" Chevy spring swap
#42
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From: Pleasanton, CA - SF Bay Area
Awesome, thanks!
When you did your shackles/hangers, did you use a jig of sorts to make sure you clamped them in the right place on the frame? I'm thinking of using some scrap wood, and drilling holes exacly the "eye-to-eye" length needed between stock and new hardware. Also, since the hangers are wider than frame, thinking of welding on some small tabs that are just the right width of the frame, so it's lined up in-line with the frame.
What did you do to ensure you were spot on - before tacking and going to town?
When you did your shackles/hangers, did you use a jig of sorts to make sure you clamped them in the right place on the frame? I'm thinking of using some scrap wood, and drilling holes exacly the "eye-to-eye" length needed between stock and new hardware. Also, since the hangers are wider than frame, thinking of welding on some small tabs that are just the right width of the frame, so it's lined up in-line with the frame.
What did you do to ensure you were spot on - before tacking and going to town?
#43
Awesome, thanks!
When you did your shackles/hangers, did you use a jig of sorts to make sure you clamped them in the right place on the frame? I'm thinking of using some scrap wood, and drilling holes exacly the "eye-to-eye" length needed between stock and new hardware. Also, since the hangers are wider than frame, thinking of welding on some small tabs that are just the right width of the frame, so it's lined up in-line with the frame.
What did you do to ensure you were spot on - before tacking and going to town?
When you did your shackles/hangers, did you use a jig of sorts to make sure you clamped them in the right place on the frame? I'm thinking of using some scrap wood, and drilling holes exacly the "eye-to-eye" length needed between stock and new hardware. Also, since the hangers are wider than frame, thinking of welding on some small tabs that are just the right width of the frame, so it's lined up in-line with the frame.
What did you do to ensure you were spot on - before tacking and going to town?

Do you mean the front spring hangers? That wouldnt be a bad idea, but there is also 3 rosette weld underneath the skid plate that you also weld onto the hanger. My hangers are from Ballistic Fab so they may be a little different from your Skys kit.
#44
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From: Pleasanton, CA - SF Bay Area
Yeah, the front spring hangers are what I was referring to. I saw the holes for rosette welds in your kit, but the sky kit doesn't have them.
tabs may be hard to line up correctly but I'll play by ear...still need welder first.
tabs may be hard to line up correctly but I'll play by ear...still need welder first.
#45
drill your own holes in the hangers and you too can have the holes for the strong welds. i wouldnt worry about any of those tabs. Just drill a couple good holes and go to work.
haha get on it dude!
haha get on it dude!
#46
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From: Pleasanton, CA - SF Bay Area
Thanks - I'll likely try that.
Probalby going to pull the trigger on a 130 AMP Chicago Electric welder this week - on sale at HF, and I have a 20% off coupon. I'll likely hit you up through PM if I run into any snags...thanks in advance
I also need to deal with my dying tranny soon too, so that may take priority
Phil
Probalby going to pull the trigger on a 130 AMP Chicago Electric welder this week - on sale at HF, and I have a 20% off coupon. I'll likely hit you up through PM if I run into any snags...thanks in advance

I also need to deal with my dying tranny soon too, so that may take priority

Phil
#47
Awesome, thanks!
When you did your shackles/hangers, did you use a jig of sorts to make sure you clamped them in the right place on the frame? I'm thinking of using some scrap wood, and drilling holes exacly the "eye-to-eye" length needed between stock and new hardware. Also, since the hangers are wider than frame, thinking of welding on some small tabs that are just the right width of the frame, so it's lined up in-line with the frame.
What did you do to ensure you were spot on - before tacking and going to town?
When you did your shackles/hangers, did you use a jig of sorts to make sure you clamped them in the right place on the frame? I'm thinking of using some scrap wood, and drilling holes exacly the "eye-to-eye" length needed between stock and new hardware. Also, since the hangers are wider than frame, thinking of welding on some small tabs that are just the right width of the frame, so it's lined up in-line with the frame.
What did you do to ensure you were spot on - before tacking and going to town?

I made a jig and bolted it to my existing hanger and the new hanger.

Pushed the hanger into place and tacked it, then repeated for the other side.

As you can see I also have multiple holes set evenly along the length, this was for finding the correct length for my shackle.
Hope this helps/gives you some ideas!
Larry
Last edited by 91 4Runner; Oct 10, 2011 at 02:11 AM.
#48
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From: Pleasanton, CA - SF Bay Area
Thanks Larry!
I had been thinking of doing something similar, but with a piece of scrap wood, with the holes measured the proper distance apart. I guess I'm now more concerned with the angle of the hanger - making sure it sites in line with the frame, and centered with the frame (since I believe the hangers are wider than the frame). Will reach out to you guys when I get around to doing this.
Thanks again!
I had been thinking of doing something similar, but with a piece of scrap wood, with the holes measured the proper distance apart. I guess I'm now more concerned with the angle of the hanger - making sure it sites in line with the frame, and centered with the frame (since I believe the hangers are wider than the frame). Will reach out to you guys when I get around to doing this.
Thanks again!
#49
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From: Pleasanton, CA - SF Bay Area
I've been eying this all month and finally jumped on it:

$199 at Harbor Freight and handles 5/16" steel with flux wire:
http://www.harborfreight.com/120-amp...der-97503.html
This same welder just went on sale for $20 cheaper this month ($179.99!). I just took my receipt and the ad to HF and got a $20 credit back

$199 at Harbor Freight and handles 5/16" steel with flux wire:
http://www.harborfreight.com/120-amp...der-97503.html
This same welder just went on sale for $20 cheaper this month ($179.99!). I just took my receipt and the ad to HF and got a $20 credit back
Last edited by Philbert; Nov 4, 2011 at 01:34 PM.
#52
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From: Pleasanton, CA - SF Bay Area
First things first....
While I've been planning this project, a couple things happened:
1) truck failed smog (twice now)
2) transmission took a crap (picked up a W56 last week)
So....I need to take care of those two things first, then get the welder in action
Will let you guys know when I get to it!
#54
While I've been planning this project, a couple things happened:
1) truck failed smog (twice now)
2) transmission took a crap (picked up a W56 last week)
So....I need to take care of those two things first, then get the welder in action
Will let you guys know when I get to it!
1) truck failed smog (twice now)
2) transmission took a crap (picked up a W56 last week)
So....I need to take care of those two things first, then get the welder in action
Will let you guys know when I get to it!Thanks dude, im searching for an engine all the time
#57
#58
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iTrader: (2)
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,159
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From: Pleasanton, CA - SF Bay Area
I've been eying this all month and finally jumped on it:

$199 at Harbor Freight and handles 5/16" steel with flux wire:
http://www.harborfreight.com/120-amp...der-97503.html
This same welder just went on sale for $20 cheaper this month ($179.99!). I just took my receipt and the ad to HF and got a $20 credit back

$199 at Harbor Freight and handles 5/16" steel with flux wire:
http://www.harborfreight.com/120-amp...der-97503.html
This same welder just went on sale for $20 cheaper this month ($179.99!). I just took my receipt and the ad to HF and got a $20 credit back

So, I finally unpacked this sucker to assemble it last night and noticed that:
1) the power cord is pretty short (I'd read this already)
2) the power cord had NO PLUG - just 3 wires coming out of the main sleeve - WTF??
Is this how all welders come - and you fashion your own plug?
If so, any recommendations for where to get the hardware/how to do it? While I'm at it, can I extend the cord, since I'll need more?
Phil
#59
ya youre going to have to put your own cord on it so you can choose which style you want on there. We got all of our plugs and necessary sockets, etc at home depot. Yes we made a special extension power wire so we can get it all around our garage.




