General idea of what the electrical wiring will look like (haven't decided where fuses will be added in yet...)

 

How a similar single-compressor system might be wired...

 

what is the purpose of the auto function again?
and are there three terminals on the on/off switch?

 

When pressure gets low in the tank, it automatically turns the pumps on. When it reaches the set pressure, it turns the pumps off until pressure drops again.

 

ok, so isnt that just the pressure switch,. and itd be wired inline with the power to the on/off switch?

 

Yes, but the general idea is I want to have a choice to either have the compressors in auto mode, or just turned on. I'm going to use a SPDT switch which either puts power through the pressure switch, or bypasses the pressure switch so that the compressors don't turn off.

I plan to only use the pressure switch when the tank is hooked into the system, since it will be removable. The last post on pg. 1 details some experimentation I did with the compressor, and why the auto function might not work at higher altitudes anyway.

 

thats right. cool idea. and thank you very much for the info.

 

thanks for the help brian.

 

See, that's the kind of filter I plan to use for the compressors' breather intake tubes...

On another note, I poked around my 4Runner some yesterday, and it really doesn't look like I'll be able to fit the compressors anywhere in the undercarriage near the front... Looks like I may try putting them on either side of the spare tire in back instead. Damn!

 

For those of you who have the MF-1050 model, can you please post the CFM output (maximum air flow) as per the actual label on the compressor (not what is says on the box).

Thanks.

 

Dude, the number on the box is the only number we have. I don't have a method for measuring "actual" output.

 

1. The MV50 was the first original model. It had a flow rate of 72LPM which was printed both on the shipping box and the label sticker on the compressor.

2. The MF-1050 became the 2nd generation model that looked identical to the MV50. However, while it listed a flow rate of 72LPM on the shipping box, the label sticker on the compressor stated 50LPM.

3. The Q-Maxx or MF-1052 is the current model. This particular model does not show flow rate information on the shipping box or the label sticker on the body (as stated by ATJeep). I don't know why they stopped listing it?

The Company that manufactures these compressors has been very evasive in providing information about their products. In the dozen or so emails I have sent to them, they state that all 3 models are comparable (not identical). Perhaps the oldest model did produce a very high flow rate but due manufacturing costs, they are now only producing 50LPM models? There is no way to be sure.

If anyone has access to the MV50 and the MF-1050/52 , perhaps they could better inform us as to which has a better flow rate. Sorry to be persistant, but I own an Import 4x4 shop in NYC, and a lot of customers have been asking about compressors and I want to provide them the best product.

 

My compressor sprung a leak... the "o" gasket that seals the two chambers in the head has a small piece broken off and it causes a leak. Do you maybe have one of these gaskets in a spare compressor mastacox?? Im gonna try a little black silicone and see what happens. I emailed the company and im sure they will tell me i shouldnt of taken it apart or somthing.

 

Yeah, I've had problems with seals and stuff going bad too... Unfortunately I don't have any extras for you. I would use some Permatex "Black" Silicone RTV and just re-seal it that way. Should work just as well as the crappy gaskets it had to start with...

 

I had some toyota silicone laying around so i used it and it seems to work. I was pretty suprised how big the piston was. Only thing that kind made me mad was that plate with the valves on it, it looks like it was slid across the floor and still used for assembly(prob why i had that messed up allen bolt that dug small notches in the head). There great compressor but man they need a little better quality control like not used screwed up parts.

 

Yeah, I've noticed similar QC problems on my compressors here and there (like cross-threaded nuts). Still, for $50 it's hard to beat. I'm happy I have a "spare" compressor though, so I have a few spare parts to limp the other two along...