So I'm (finally) in the "parts acqusition" phase of putting a crawler in my 2nd gen 'runner.

The local import junkyard had a good price on a transfer case, but upon further review, it is a forward shift, not a top shift.

Forward:


Top:


I'm going to call the 'yard tomorrow and see if they have any others (that may be top shift).

Is it worth getting the adapters from Marlin, or should I just look further for a top shift? (The price with the adapters is still OK)

Next step will be pricing out which is the most cost effective way to go - to get another gear drive case or to use the new MC10 adapter. Shift on the fly sure is nice here in the winter....

Any thoughts on having the 4.7's in the front case vs the rear?

 

Just sayin' i love my 4.7s work amazing. but just put them in the rear. i think most do it when they use the 23 spline upgrade to get the strongest setup.

 

where you put them will somewhat depend on if you swap to gear drive, wont it?

If you do, i would put them in the rear.

Get a top shift, less hassle.

EDIT: Oh yeah, I hate you.

 

Now why you gotta be sayin' that?



(I better make up with you before I need you to come help me swap gears huh? LOL)

 

Ty did mine and they work awesome, no grinding or slipping.

 

Oh i will definetly come up and help you. I'll still be uber jealous.

 

So, I stopped by the 'yard (Blake's in Erie, CO) after work today, and top shift case availability isn't a problem - they had SEVERAL. (They are all '83 or older though I think). Still trying to get the straight scoop on the MC10 adapter...

Ike - they have an '85 SFA too, but are kinda proud of it.

I have a Budbuilt crossmember - will I need a new one? (thinking probably so)

 

Hey Issac... Um I need some love too since I have ta do some body work before I paint tippy. Wanna come over for a killer dinner and make sure I am doing my bondo action right? Purty please?????

(trust me - I make Killer dinner - LOL)

 

I'm thinking you can run with just the one, but i don't think it will protect or support as well as the dual. If it was me, i would get the dual case set up. Someone with duals can chime in on what needs to happen there.

If you get another, I'll make you an offer on yours, since mine is royally screwed up, and needs new stuff. Let me know what you think.

I'd be happy to. I need to do some work on mine too, since i used a non-sealing primer on mine, and water cracked my fiberglass over the winter. Then i think i'm going for the smooth durabak treatment, no more desert pinstripes for me.

 

Isaac - where was that post about triple stick? Saw some stuff about it on the marlin board, but nothing about how to build one or where to buy one...

 

Any thoughts on two stock ratio cases vs one with 2.28 and the other with 4.7?

How often do you really need double low I guess is the question. I'm wondering about the extra expense and if the extra torque is just gonna break stuff...

 

Tripple Shifter

I've emailed the guy, he's really really cool. He will hook you up. You will need to figure out which cases you have first, he can do both kinds, but you'll have to have it figured out before you order.

as for 2 stock, i'd say no. You get the stock, you get the low, and stock, but with the 4.7, you get stock, the low, and the uber low. Just do it once. 3.4 will break stuff in 4.7 low. I think with a stick, you will use the doubler more than autos. You may not use it all the time, but when you do need it, you'll love it.

 

Yeah, after thinking about it some more why not just do it right the first time... spend a bunch of money on the chain drive adapter then down the road want the uberlow and have to swap it all out...

 

A friend of mine has an 85 4Runner with stock dual cases. For the most part, it's plenty low (5.2 to 1). But there's something about that 10.7 to 1 dual ultimate low that makes me smile

 

OK, decision is made - two topshift, gear drive cases are in the back of the 4Runner as we speak. (one is from an '80 and the other an '83)

The info to find all this seems way more difficult to find than it should be - anyone know of any writeups going through it step by step, what all is required, etc?

I know I already have the tcases, but are they gonna work? I would rather find out now than be fighting with it later!

Here's a handy link, but would be nice to have some commentary about which ones are desirable and which are not...
http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/tra.../tcaseinfo.htm

Do I NEED a new crossmember?

How much shorter should the driveshaft be?

 

There are so many variables depending on so many things that no one would write up a "cross reference sheet" becuase someone would find a problem with it and get mad....

I think the problem with the stock cross member is that the front shaft can "hit" it - esp with solid axles and mad travel / droop.

There are so many variables on lenght that IMHO even if someone says "mine was x inches" - it may not work for you....

Local driveshaft shop can SHORTEN a driveshaft really quicky..

 

Troy, the cases should work, not sure what you are refering to there. Usually people run into trouble getting autos to work. You already have manual hubs, so any "shift on the fly" is irrelevant.

As for the crossmember, i'd get a new one. Just less hassle.

For the driveshafts, get the crawler in and measure. Best way to be sure its' accurate. Rocky Mountain Driveline has been highly recomended to me.

 

Yeah, mine might need a little more work than normal:

 

I usually leave the hubs locked and use shift on the fly in winter, but having to slow down/stop isn't really that big a deal.

What I've researched says I don't NEED a new crossmember. I'll eventually get one, but will do it later to spread the $$$ out a bit.

 

huh? My truck came from the factory with manual hubs, and i have never had to slow down or stop to grab 4wd? Maybe i'm miss understanding you?