Long story short dont crank tbars its not worth it... get a bracket lift and do it right. I picked my truck up from my mechanic today after cranking tbars 1.5 and 1.5 bj spacers. Long story short my axles were riding like I had huge flat spots in my tires and now the truck is at the mechanics trying to figure out if I broke anything...

 

Bummer, although I don't think many here would suggest balljoint spacers and that big of a t-bar crank.

 

Do you have ADD? That won't help any matters.

 

Yeah I have ADD saving for hubs right now. I think the truck isnt going to see the trails til it have a 4" bracket lift that retains stock angles, Manual hubs, and negative torsion bars.

My dad best described it.I tried to get to step 10 and only did 1, 3, 7, and 10. I needed to do it the right way from the start.

 

dam, how far did you crank those bars man? i had mine cranked on my old truck and many friends have done the same w/o trouble. cranking them sucks anyway, if your lookin for like an extra inch up front its worth it, other than that by a lift.

and deatherrunner y does your sig say ifs is for losers. i take offense to that, i think you just dont know how to use ifs. maybe us with ifs cant do the most xtreme of rock crawling but im sure a properly equipped ifs would do 99% of what u can on a trail.

 

Geez - how much did you have them cranked?

You have a 3" bodylift, right? Shouldn't need any more than that to run 33x12.50... Or you could go to 33x10.50 and get rid of all these problems.

I'm not a big fan of bracket lifts. If you really want to run 35's, it's not that much more money over the bracket lift to do a SAS.

If you are really gonna 'wheel it, the money is better spent on armor and lockers than lift anyways...

 

What?....

That is pretty funny deathrunner, seems you can't please anyone at all...

Deathrunner has thousands into a longtravel IFS system. If you look at his avitar, you'll see he is definetly running IFS. The signature is sarcasm, since he has been pretty well bashed for running such an expensive system. Sarcasm is meant to be funny, and things that are funny are meant to be laughed at. Should probably check those things out before coming down on somone.

 

Now way man, that's no IFS I have, it's a SAS split in the middle with pivoting upper and lower supports. I maintain my statement, IFS is for losers. If it doesn't have a 44 or better under the front, it doesn't belong on the dirt.

Besides, LT IFS is highly unreliable. When setup properly, everything will break and fall apart. I would never do such a thing, and frankly I am offended that you guys would acuse me of such.

 

I had my Tbars cranked probably 2inches ontop of 1.5in bj spacers. I did have a 1" diff drop but it didnt help much. I dont see how bracket lift is anywhere near as expensive as a SAS. Solid swap is like $1500 done cheap. I'm getting my bracket lift for $250... Already have the shocks and I'm going to do an add a leaf in the rear to replace the blocks.

As far as clearing the tires they are cleared but I like my truck to be out of the water seeing as how theres some deep stuff around here from all the kids on 40's rutting. I know most people on this site are very against over lifting but I think my truck functions and looks good with 5-6" over 33's.

 

Different strokes for different folks I guess... All I know is I wheel the crap out of mine and haven't had significant issues with the IFS...

 

I think once all is said and done I wont break anything. The fact that my cv angles will be MORE relaxed than stock means it takes more flex that is even possible to put them under the strain that makes them break so easily.

 

dude, he's messin' with ya':

http://www.sethmetal.com/protrux04.htm

 

How old are you? are you honestly taking offense to an online statement? go report it to the police they will file a report for hurting your feelings.

 

 

In my opinion if you have IFS and are not willing to do a SAS then leave it stock. If you insist on messing with it then do BJ spacers and uncrank your t-bars a little. I think deathrunners set up is awesome but im guessing you don?t have the $$ for that. Plus his set up is better suited for desert wheeling out west not eastern woods wheeling that you would do. Stay away from drop bracket lifts. They hurt the performance of your truck by making it weaker and raise your center of gravity. They do nothing to help flex or ground clearance. I have these same feelings toward 3inch body lifts (I understand body lifts for drive train lifts, engine swaps ect.). They are both for show and they hurt the performance of your truck rather then help. If you?re trying to clear tires then beat the pinch weld/fire wall with a BFH. Besides you can fit 33s on a stock truck and that?s all you?re looking to run. I saw somewhere in this tread that you said you need the lift to go through deep water/mud. If deep mud holes float your boat then get a snorkel, electric fan, diff breathers, raise the ECU and put dielectric grease on all of your electrical connections. By the way I waterproofed my truck and still avoid water as much as possible. It?s a Toyota not a DUCK http://www.baltimoreducks.com/images...military06.jpg
. If all you care about is having a bling show truck the a drop bracket lift is for you but if you plan on building a practical useful truck then steer clear of the drop bracket lifts . If you have to take your truck to a mechanic to fix your mods then you should probably think twice before you yourself do other mods.

 

Stock shmock, who here's Johnny Stocker? Body lift does not weaken/hurt anything either. And they help your body clear ground objects, plus keep you higher-up in said mudhole as well. Get stuck in one halfway up your windows and none of that other crap's gonna help then, huh? Guess what else, they don't raise your center of balance as drastically as suspension lifts, if you hadn't realized that. A little harder working on my engine is the only "downside" of my 3" body lift, which clears my 35's without bashin' things up with a hammer, good greif!? I can roll my windows down, hell maybe open my doors when STUCK (operative word here,calls me a retard) in a deep mudhole, crawl out, hook up and toss my towstrap to somebody. But I bet you like all that mud on ya. Some peoples kids!

 

A body lift raises your center of gravity. I does not help your off road performance. It is for show. Exceptions are if you do a drive train lift, engine swap, raise your gas take or some other mod that requires more room under the body. Doing a body lift to clear tires is retarded in my opinion. What does having your body up higher in said mud hole do? The running gear is what needs waterproofed as I stated in my previous post. Once again its a toyota not a DUCK.

 

Well maybe not all people can afford to do anything but a simple body lift. Respect other peoples opinions and quit jumping all over each other.

 

Back on topic...

Stomis, have you gotten word if there was damage or not...If there was, its a pretty cheap fix. If you have to replace the axles, i hightly recomend pressing out the axle studs on the diff when you have the axles out of the truck. Replace them with grade 8 hardware, and you will thank yourself if you ever have to replace an axle ever again.

 

I had the shop replace my axle that I broke only because I didnt feel I was knowledgable enough to do it. I do plan on diving into it next time it happens though. Anyone have a good write up on changing IFS axles/cv's?