Personally, i recommend replacement leaf springs. However, a 3inch shackle will usually fix a saggy butt on a 4runner, you will need less on a PU.

 

I hear ya Ike, I will find out in due time what breaks and what I can brace/fix or what is a lost cause as far as problems go.

Was gonna buy a runner/truck but I hit some girls car worth 1500 in damage so meh.

I am curious to see if my idea would work really, in theory and according to my research it should but only doing it I will know for sure. I do hear the tacoma/3rd gens get better flex than us anyways b/c of the front coils.

 

Leaf springs instead of shackles or in addition to? What leafs do you like/recommend with this combo? Right now the truck has blocks which make it look right as far as sag, but the ride and flex blows. Not to mention the t-bars were cranked like crazy..

Also, just a little clarification:
When you say "Purchase a 2inch drive train lift. Again, 4 crawler is where its at. "

And
"Purchase a high clearance, 2inch drivetrain lift, transfer case crossmember and skid."

You are saying, get a 2" drivetrain lift and the transfer case crossmember and skid For trucks with a 2" Drivetrain lift, right? Sorry if that's a dumb question, kinda new to the off-road suspension game.

 

No worries mate!

I recomend a new leaf pack with stock shackles. Downey makes cheap springs, OME is better, Alcan is the best. Obviously you pay more for better quality. Get rid of the blocks.

When you lift the drive train, you lift the engine, tranny, and transmission. You buy the engine mount lift blocks from 4crawler. Budbuilt will make you a high clearance crossmember and skid plate which will bolt on in the stock location, built specifically for a 2inch drivetrain lift.

This will give you about 3.5 " more clearance under your crossmember, plus give you a solid skid plate protecting your transfer case.

 

I had another concern in regards to the drivetrain lift. I read somewhere that it might be problematic, specifically added driveshaft vibrations from the increased pinion angles. Solvable, of course, one way or another. CV driveshafts, spring perch clocking, angled axle shims.

What do you think/recommend?

 

Thanks Axel Ike, Now I know for sure what I'll be doing with the tax return (OME spings and shocks and BJ spacer) Great thread.

 

This could be an issue depending on what you've put on the suspension end. This is the equivalent of putting on a 2 inch suspension lift.

As long as you've kept the suspension as I've described it, you should not get d shaft vibrations.

 

Shouldnt have an issue with d-shaft problems so long as you follow Ikes info.

 

this has been my plan from day one. if you get into any serious wheeling, your breakover angle becomes crucial. the body/drivetrain lift is perfect for fixing that. and gives you the wheel well clearance for bigger tires, to get the whole thing up off the ground. I intend to run the tbars closer to stock height + the BJ spacers, and lift springs in the back. but my truck isn't being built for daily driver status.

why do you say that? I can't think of a reason why the extra inch would effect much, but I haven't done it....

 

I found the page I remembered reading. From what I'm able to gather from it, it appears he had vibration trouble with just a 2" drivetrain lift. No suspension lift even. Sounds like a lengthy endeavor the way this guy describes it. He did a CV rear driveshaft, notched the horsecollar, and 3 degree axle shims(and a few more things, I'm unsure of the necessity for. Huh? ). Check it out, it's good readin'.

Here:http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/drivetrain_lift/

 

Good to know. The truck I've seen with a 2inch drive train lift had zero vibrations, and no issues. Good to add this though, as others should be aware of it.

Thanks Mudhippy!

 

Don't forget a frame truss.

 

FINALLY someone else here at TYtaTech that knows what he/she is talking about !!!!
I've been "preaching" this for the year or so that I've been here at YotaTech.

Only problem that you're going to have is if jcfb wanders over here from the 86~95 truck and 4Runner forum.
He'll get himself all bunched up over it. : >


I just finished up over on a tread there:


https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...r-lift-124303/





Fred

 

I just want to say thanks to Axle Ike for being a freakin genious and getting a sensible list up.

Also want to say thanks to FredTJ for educating me and opening my eyes. I was ignorant likejcfb (not near as bad tho) and i always enjoy reading a post by u Fred!

 

Your the one who inspired me to research it all and figure it out qand I will tell you what-your set up is the simplest, easiest and cheapest way to do it. How does it all flex btw?

 

Really? wow thats pretty cool. It does fairly well considering everything is bolt-on. the only thing i want to change is to put my stock TBars back in. The front is just too stiff. Hopefully soon here i will get a chance to put my stockers back in, but i think im gonna have to wait awhile (i broke my right 5th metacarple yesterday [the pinky bone that runs across the top of ur hand] and rite now i have to type with 1 hand which sux). I would also go with a 33x10.5 not a 12.5. Without my gears or lockers; the lift, tires, and wheels cost me roughly $2000. the wheels n tires were just barely over $1000. LKet me dig up a pic right-quick

 

Why dont you like the 33x12.5s?

 

clearance issues and during full stuff the get into the inner lip of the fender in the rear. Then up front the just eat up the very back of the plastic part.

 

Makes sense, thats part of the reason I am doing at least a 1" bodylift or so. You get clearance and you can stuff them, plus the 3.75 backspaced wheels should help..

One day, gotta buy a truck/runner to do it with. My T100 is just to danged big to take on most trails b/c it requires ultra careful wheeling.

Does your runner flex pretty good though overall?

 

ive thought about doing a small body lift and a tummy tuck to get the guts up. the wheels are 15x8 w/3.75" BS.

see pics