I really don't feel like typing back out the entire, thought out post I've made on a couple other toyota forums.

So here we go. (Ignore the stuff about Camburgs, the guys at Tundrasolutions are camburg happy)


I've been looking at leveling my truck. 2003 Access Cab. There are a ton of options out there, but more often than not the answer is "Get coil-overs."

Ok, that's all fine, well and good, but I'm not in a position, now or anytime in the future to do such a thing. As much as I'd love Camburg's, it ain't gonna happen.

Here's what I want out of a lift. Minimal reduction in travel. (I do wheel, but it's extremely light. Typically rough rocky roads (rocky being about the size of a fist) with some inclines, maybe a 6-8 inch rut or ledge somewhere.) 33 inch tall tires. The rim I am looking at is the American Racing Teflon Victor. 16x8, 0 offset, 4.5 Backside. Yes, this is mostly an AESTHETIC lift. I don't need wild travel, or insane amounts of lift. I want something exceedingly mild, that will clear a 33 inch tall tire. If I lose 5-10% turning radius to avoid rubbing, fine. Not a big deal for me.

So, with that out of the way, here are my direct, very to the point questions I need answered.

Toytec 3" spacer lift. Seems to have everything required to run a 33" tall tire with the typical downfalls of a spacer lift. Requires CV mod to keep grease from spinning all over everything. Spacer mounts between coil and frame from whatever everything Sean says is far less strenous on bearings and ball joints. I've seen some people complain it's terrible, everything pops, they blow stuff up, some say it's never caused problems and they love it to death. Diff drop, AAL, Spacer. Is this a quality route to take?

Then there's this Bilstein 5100 thing I've been reading about. Before getting into that... What exactly is on the front of the Tundra? (Mine is non TRD.) Dealership says struts. My understanding is that a strut and a shock mount in different ways. Yet, I've read alot saying that you can put a Bilstein 5100 in as a direct replacement for the stock strut. I've located 2 different types of Bilstein 5100's. The first looks... like a shock. O style connection on one end, pin on the other. Says it will level up to 2 inches. This has no coil around it, which sounds like you remove stock strut and place this unit inside the existing stock coil. Says this is adjustable. Choice number 2. Located a Bilstein 5100 which looks completely different. It looks alot more like Camburg's deal. Totally new, "stand-alone" component with a new coilover shock. Also says adjustable. The Bilstein 5100 which looks like a standard shock, is this a direct replacement to whatever is located inside the coil of my stock front end? Side Questions: Just what is that on the front end? Shock or Strut? And have these two become so synonomous there really is no install difference anymore? Is 2 inches of leveling enough to clear the tire height that I would like?

I used to do a little more wheeling, but due to schedule conflicts (IE, I won't get to a trailhead at 8 AM after getting off work at 5 AM) yes, my truck is mostly now being qualified as a "Road Princess."

Finally. Suspension is NOT my strong point, by any means. Those of you heavily educated in this is who I am looking to. Based on what I've outlined, which would be the better route? (Please do not answer Camburgs. I CANNOT afford them.)

A) Spacer lift up front, Diff drop, CV mod and AAL in the back.
(Approx. cost with alignment: $300)
B) Bilstein 5100 "shocks" on the front, AAL and longer shock on the rear, diff drop, CV Mod
(Approx. cost: $400)
C) (insert other viable option here)

Now, before any nay-sayers jump on and go, "Well Camburg's stuff is only another couple hundred dollars more, just get those anyways," due to my financial situation, even $400 is a bit of a stretch for me.

With all that being laid on the table, please, enlighten me.

 

I have purchased the toytec 3" lift for my 00 Tundra. I have not had time to install it yet, but from my understanding the only thing you need to do is lower your front diff. I dont see why you would have to mess with your CV boots?

 

That's what I have on my 06' DC Tundra, 3" Toytec with AAL & diff drop. I have wheeled it and don't have a single problem. I think it's a very good quality kit and the full length AAL helps a little for towing and payload capacity, but still rides great. You can fit 33" tires easily with this lift, but I did have to remove the stock front mud flaps because they rubbed a little at full lock.
I'm running the setup above and a 3" Performance Accessories body lift with 305/70/16 BFG MT's on 16x8 Mickey Thompson classic wheels. My truck now has 12k on it and absolutely ZERO issues...other than I wish I'd have gone with the BFG All Terrains instead, the MT's are a little louder on the highway, but not too bad.
Some of the guys over at Tundrasolutions have more money than brains sometimes

 

I also have not had any problems with my CVs leaking with the diff drop.

 

So after more research than I'll care to admit to, finally figured everything out. Some people have said the Double Cab is a bit heavy for this route, but an Access Cab is perfect.
Bilstein Adjustable 5100's up front. (swap out replacement for stock shock with an adjustable coil perch)
Wheeler's Off-Road 1.5" AAL.
Total Chaos 1" Diff Drop

I was quite depressed when I found out they don't have a production date on any more of the American Racing Victor's. (I grabbed a set of Black Steelies and will wrap them with MTR's whenever the cash comes in for wheeling purposes) So I ended up with the summer/street tire combo being the American Racing Trench wrapped in a 285x75r16 BF Goodrich AT.

Also planned during this project is a little chopping up of the stock skidplate to make changing the oil filter far less of a mess and annoying. Pics when completed.

 

True statement. I just can't justify spending $1200 for a leveling set of coil overs. ... If I had that kinda of scratch to blow I'd be doing something a h3ll of a lot more complex.