Texas_Ace's 200 4Runner Build up Stage-2! The Supercharger Adventure Begins!
Nov 15, 2008 | 05:56 AM
#101
Contributing Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 10,666
Likes: 5
From: Oklahoma State
Now here is where i get confused. i opened the URD software and set it up like it says. i first just watched and looked at the maps. but then i ran into my first problem, what is the differnce between map A and map B?
How do you select which one you want to use? is one open-loop and the other closed loop?
I then messed with map A as that seemed to be the one it was using. I selected all and changed everything by +50% just to see what would happen.
Well i did another WOT and my AFR's bearly changed? The ECU IS still in learning mode but wouldn't it run it too rich vs to lean in learning mode?
Now i was looking under the hood and i can smell gas? i checked the fuel lines and no leaks but i can smell gas. Either there is a leak some place, it is really running pig rich or that is how it is supposed to smell.
Now could my AFR gauge not be reading correctly? it is possible i guess but how would i know? the sensor is not that far into the exahust stream, i know that. But would that really effect the reading that much? I doubt it as when it is idling it sits and a almost perfect 14.7 just like it should.
So any ideas?
http://www.gadgetonline.com/U-Tune.pdf
Nov 15, 2008 | 06:52 AM
#103
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 945
Likes: 0
From: Nashville, TN
Ace,
You need to be very careful with the tuning. As Ian said, MAP A is timing MAP B is fuel. Read the URD tuning guide linked above 5 times, seriously. Then when you think you almost understand it, read it again.
Download Cam Studio
You can use it to record your AFRs, Timing, and Map screens from the lap top so you can go back and analyze them later. Read up on my tuning pages on my website at www.hooliganbiketech.net. I even posted one of the videos from my tuning session so you can see how it works. This makes tuning MUCH easier as you can see exactly what cells need to be adjusted.
Once you have your AFR to as close to 11.8:1 as you can get it at WOT, then go back and listen to the motor under part throttle lugging it up hills. You're listening for ping. In the places you hear ping, adjust the timing map to get it to stop. Work in very small increments or you could throw a CEL. Only remove timing where you have to.
The two maps work somewhat together. Once the motor becomes heat soaked it'll be more likely to ping, and the STOCK ECU's active timing adjustment will pull some timing out making your AFRs go a little more rich. There's not much you can do about that. Just give the motor a few minutes to cool down before continuing.
Let me know if you have questions. I'm pretty good at tuning.
OH, one other thing....you need to use the sanding wheel on your dremel NOT the cutting shaft when Dremeling plastic. It'll be MUCH smoother.
I made my own mount using metal and some dash stock from a stereo shop:
Angled rings I made along with dash stock mounted:
Dremel with sanding wheel and cutting template:
Finished trimming stock bezel:
Finished product:
You need to be very careful with the tuning. As Ian said, MAP A is timing MAP B is fuel. Read the URD tuning guide linked above 5 times, seriously. Then when you think you almost understand it, read it again.
Download Cam Studio
You can use it to record your AFRs, Timing, and Map screens from the lap top so you can go back and analyze them later. Read up on my tuning pages on my website at www.hooliganbiketech.net. I even posted one of the videos from my tuning session so you can see how it works. This makes tuning MUCH easier as you can see exactly what cells need to be adjusted.
Once you have your AFR to as close to 11.8:1 as you can get it at WOT, then go back and listen to the motor under part throttle lugging it up hills. You're listening for ping. In the places you hear ping, adjust the timing map to get it to stop. Work in very small increments or you could throw a CEL. Only remove timing where you have to.
The two maps work somewhat together. Once the motor becomes heat soaked it'll be more likely to ping, and the STOCK ECU's active timing adjustment will pull some timing out making your AFRs go a little more rich. There's not much you can do about that. Just give the motor a few minutes to cool down before continuing.
Let me know if you have questions. I'm pretty good at tuning.
OH, one other thing....you need to use the sanding wheel on your dremel NOT the cutting shaft when Dremeling plastic. It'll be MUCH smoother.
I made my own mount using metal and some dash stock from a stereo shop:
Angled rings I made along with dash stock mounted:
Dremel with sanding wheel and cutting template:
Finished trimming stock bezel:
Finished product:
Nov 15, 2008 | 07:11 AM
#104
Thread Starter
Contributing Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,932
Likes: 1
From: DFW TEXAS BABY!
Ace, you really need to read the Utune guide:
http://www.gadgetonline.com/U-Tune.pdf
http://www.gadgetonline.com/U-Tune.pdf
Ah, that was the biggest problem i had, and i think all my other problems came from using map A instead of Map B.
I have tuned cars before, just never with this setup, it has always been a standalone i have used in the past.
Ace,
You need to be very careful with the tuning. As Ian said, MAP A is timing MAP B is fuel. Read the URD tuning guide linked above 5 times, seriously. Then when you think you almost understand it, read it again.
Download Cam Studio
You can use it to record your AFRs, Timing, and Map screens from the lap top so you can go back and analyze them later. Read up on my tuning pages on my website at www.hooliganbiketech.net. I even posted one of the videos from my tuning session so you can see how it works. This makes tuning MUCH easier as you can see exactly what cells need to be adjusted.
Once you have your AFR to as close to 11.8:1 as you can get it at WOT, then go back and listen to the motor under part throttle lugging it up hills. You're listening for ping. In the places you hear ping, adjust the timing map to get it to stop. Work in very small increments or you could throw a CEL. Only remove timing where you have to.
The two maps work somewhat together. Once the motor becomes heat soaked it'll be more likely to ping, and the STOCK ECU's active timing adjustment will pull some timing out making your AFRs go a little more rich. There's not much you can do about that. Just give the motor a few minutes to cool down before continuing.
Let me know if you have questions. I'm pretty good at tuning.
OH, one other thing....you need to use the sanding wheel on your dremel NOT the cutting shaft when Dremeling plastic. It'll be MUCH smoother.
I made my own mount using metal and some dash stock from a stereo shop:
Angled rings I made along with dash stock mounted:
Dremel with sanding wheel and cutting template:
Finished trimming stock bezel:
Finished product:
You need to be very careful with the tuning. As Ian said, MAP A is timing MAP B is fuel. Read the URD tuning guide linked above 5 times, seriously. Then when you think you almost understand it, read it again.
Download Cam Studio
You can use it to record your AFRs, Timing, and Map screens from the lap top so you can go back and analyze them later. Read up on my tuning pages on my website at www.hooliganbiketech.net. I even posted one of the videos from my tuning session so you can see how it works. This makes tuning MUCH easier as you can see exactly what cells need to be adjusted.
Once you have your AFR to as close to 11.8:1 as you can get it at WOT, then go back and listen to the motor under part throttle lugging it up hills. You're listening for ping. In the places you hear ping, adjust the timing map to get it to stop. Work in very small increments or you could throw a CEL. Only remove timing where you have to.
The two maps work somewhat together. Once the motor becomes heat soaked it'll be more likely to ping, and the STOCK ECU's active timing adjustment will pull some timing out making your AFRs go a little more rich. There's not much you can do about that. Just give the motor a few minutes to cool down before continuing.
Let me know if you have questions. I'm pretty good at tuning.
OH, one other thing....you need to use the sanding wheel on your dremel NOT the cutting shaft when Dremeling plastic. It'll be MUCH smoother.
I made my own mount using metal and some dash stock from a stereo shop:
Angled rings I made along with dash stock mounted:
Dremel with sanding wheel and cutting template:
Finished trimming stock bezel:
Finished product:
I actually have watched your tuning section before and would love to do it that way from the start but I still need to see if i can get my AFR gauge hooked up to the computer. It just has 2 wires coming out of it i am supposed to connect to a serial cable, the problem being that i don't have a serial port on my laptop. I guess i can buy another USB-serial cable and splice it into that.
Right now i am just eyeballing it, won't work in the long term but should at least get me in the ballpark.
I know the basic tuning process but i will not lie i am not expert. The other cars i have tuned was with a standalone and on a dyno with a proper wideband and logging hooked up. Makes it a lot easier. I am sure i will need more help before this is over.
As for the gauge hole cutting, I know i should have used a sanding wheel it was a case of not having one and not wanting to take a 20 min trip just to get one. And i actually would have been fine except that on the LAST cut, i cut I got impachent and cut a little further then i was planning thinking i would just have to cut it more anyways. And low and behold! it was fine, just when i didn't want it to be lol.
Nov 15, 2008 | 07:54 AM
#105
Contributing Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 10,666
Likes: 5
From: Oklahoma State
2. Click on MAPS in the menu and select FUEL MAPS. This will open the
map page. Map A is the fuel map, map B is the ignition timing retard map.
3. In the upper left corner of the map page are two buttons. One will write
data to the ECU (FTC) and one will read data from the ECU (FTC). You
want to click on the “READ DATA FROM ECU” button. This will pull the
map from the FTC to your PC so you can start tuning.
map page. Map A is the fuel map, map B is the ignition timing retard map.
3. In the upper left corner of the map page are two buttons. One will write
data to the ECU (FTC) and one will read data from the ECU (FTC). You
want to click on the “READ DATA FROM ECU” button. This will pull the
map from the FTC to your PC so you can start tuning.
Nov 15, 2008 | 08:31 AM
#106
Thread Starter
Contributing Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,932
Likes: 1
From: DFW TEXAS BABY!
Where did you get that? I am looking at page 14 at this very moment and don't see that? I am reading the u-tune guide from gagets site, same link as above.
Also, which is it? speedy and Ian say that map A is timing and map B is fuel? but that says map A is fuel and map B is timing?
Edit: i still don't know where you got that from but i did find where it says what the maps do in this guide. At the begining it has all the differnt ECU's listed and says what the maps do. I saw this but didn't really pay any attention to it because i didn't know what ecu model i had. Using what i now know i used the process of elmination to figure it out.
Oh, and whereever you got your quote above does seem to be wrong, the u-tune guide also says (at least if i guessed the right ECU) that map A if timing and map B is fuel.
Also, which is it? speedy and Ian say that map A is timing and map B is fuel? but that says map A is fuel and map B is timing?
Edit: i still don't know where you got that from but i did find where it says what the maps do in this guide. At the begining it has all the differnt ECU's listed and says what the maps do. I saw this but didn't really pay any attention to it because i didn't know what ecu model i had. Using what i now know i used the process of elmination to figure it out.
Oh, and whereever you got your quote above does seem to be wrong, the u-tune guide also says (at least if i guessed the right ECU) that map A if timing and map B is fuel.
Last edited by Texas_Ace; Nov 15, 2008 at 08:36 AM.
Nov 15, 2008 | 08:37 AM
#107
Thread Starter
Contributing Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,932
Likes: 1
From: DFW TEXAS BABY!
Ok, now that at least i know what the maps do and can start actually tuning it, how do you backup/restore maps?
Do i have to create a new custormer for each map? or is there a way to have more then 1 map with 1 custormer?
I really wish i could find a more in depth manual for this software, i have now read that u-tune guide 3 times and it just gives the basics and a fairly detailed guilde on timing.
Oh, and speedy/goat, are ya'll using the AFR cabrator? I know my truck has that new style O2 sensor and am woundering if i should invest in that? How does tuning it rich in closed-loop effect gas milage?
Do i have to create a new custormer for each map? or is there a way to have more then 1 map with 1 custormer?
I really wish i could find a more in depth manual for this software, i have now read that u-tune guide 3 times and it just gives the basics and a fairly detailed guilde on timing.
Oh, and speedy/goat, are ya'll using the AFR cabrator? I know my truck has that new style O2 sensor and am woundering if i should invest in that? How does tuning it rich in closed-loop effect gas milage?
Last edited by Texas_Ace; Nov 15, 2008 at 08:41 AM.
Nov 15, 2008 | 09:21 AM
#108
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 945
Likes: 0
From: Nashville, TN
Ok, now that at least i know what the maps do and can start actually tuning it, how do you backup/restore maps?
Do i have to create a new custormer for each map? or is there a way to have more then 1 map with 1 custormer?
I really wish i could find a more in depth manual for this software, i have now read that u-tune guide 3 times and it just gives the basics and a fairly detailed guilde on timing.
Oh, and speedy/goat, are ya'll using the AFR cabrator? I know my truck has that new style O2 sensor and am woundering if i should invest in that? How does tuning it rich in closed-loop effect gas milage?
Do i have to create a new custormer for each map? or is there a way to have more then 1 map with 1 custormer?
I really wish i could find a more in depth manual for this software, i have now read that u-tune guide 3 times and it just gives the basics and a fairly detailed guilde on timing.
Oh, and speedy/goat, are ya'll using the AFR cabrator? I know my truck has that new style O2 sensor and am woundering if i should invest in that? How does tuning it rich in closed-loop effect gas milage?
My 7th injector ECU has the AFR calibrator built in. It didn't affect my gas mileage at all. Mine gradually goes to about 13:1 AFR in closed loop as bost increases then once open loop is obtained, my fuel map starts to take affect.
Nov 15, 2008 | 09:28 AM
#109
Thread Starter
Contributing Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,932
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From: DFW TEXAS BABY!
You just save the map when done to your PC/Laptop. You don't have to create a new customer each time.
My 7th injector ECU has the AFR calibrator built in. It didn't affect my gas mileage at all. Mine gradually goes to about 13:1 AFR in closed loop as bost increases then once open loop is obtained, my fuel map starts to take affect.
My 7th injector ECU has the AFR calibrator built in. It didn't affect my gas mileage at all. Mine gradually goes to about 13:1 AFR in closed loop as bost increases then once open loop is obtained, my fuel map starts to take affect.
I think i might get that AFR calibrator if it really makes a differnce. Does it really make a differnce or is there no real noticable change in power?
Nov 15, 2008 | 09:54 AM
#110
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 945
Likes: 0
From: Nashville, TN
You don't feel a difference in power per se' but it's safer on the motor. You don't want to be boosting at 4-5 psi at 14.7:1 AFR.
Nov 15, 2008 | 10:01 AM
#111
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Joined: Apr 2007
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From: DFW TEXAS BABY!
Well i will see how it works this way and then most likey add that later before next summer when it gets hot again.
So now, do you ever smell gas under the hood with the 7th? I really want to know where that smell is coming from. I had a small leak on the 7th injector fitting but i tightened it and it doesn't look to be leaking anymore.
Checked the fule line and nothing there that i can see so i have no idea where it is coming from.
So now, do you ever smell gas under the hood with the 7th? I really want to know where that smell is coming from. I had a small leak on the 7th injector fitting but i tightened it and it doesn't look to be leaking anymore.
Checked the fule line and nothing there that i can see so i have no idea where it is coming from.
Nov 15, 2008 | 10:11 AM
#112
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 945
Likes: 0
From: Nashville, TN
Well i will see how it works this way and then most likey add that later before next summer when it gets hot again.
So now, do you ever smell gas under the hood with the 7th? I really want to know where that smell is coming from. I had a small leak on the 7th injector fitting but i tightened it and it doesn't look to be leaking anymore.
Checked the fule line and nothing there that i can see so i have no idea where it is coming from.
So now, do you ever smell gas under the hood with the 7th? I really want to know where that smell is coming from. I had a small leak on the 7th injector fitting but i tightened it and it doesn't look to be leaking anymore.
Checked the fule line and nothing there that i can see so i have no idea where it is coming from.
Nov 15, 2008 | 12:15 PM
#114
Contributing Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 10,666
Likes: 5
From: Oklahoma State
Where did you get that? I am looking at page 14 at this very moment and don't see that? I am reading the u-tune guide from gagets site, same link as above.
Also, which is it? speedy and Ian say that map A is timing and map B is fuel? but that says map A is fuel and map B is timing?
Edit: i still don't know where you got that from but i did find where it says what the maps do in this guide. At the begining it has all the differnt ECU's listed and says what the maps do. I saw this but didn't really pay any attention to it because i didn't know what ecu model i had. Using what i now know i used the process of elmination to figure it out.
Oh, and whereever you got your quote above does seem to be wrong, the u-tune guide also says (at least if i guessed the right ECU) that map A if timing and map B is fuel.
Also, which is it? speedy and Ian say that map A is timing and map B is fuel? but that says map A is fuel and map B is timing?
Edit: i still don't know where you got that from but i did find where it says what the maps do in this guide. At the begining it has all the differnt ECU's listed and says what the maps do. I saw this but didn't really pay any attention to it because i didn't know what ecu model i had. Using what i now know i used the process of elmination to figure it out.
Oh, and whereever you got your quote above does seem to be wrong, the u-tune guide also says (at least if i guessed the right ECU) that map A if timing and map B is fuel.
...
Maybe it will help if I paste the whole page 14:
3. Click on OPTIONS in the menu.
4. Select ENGINE SETTINGS, then select the number of cylinders for your
engine, and 4 Stroke. Then close out that window.
5. If and only if you have an E model FTC, click on OPTIONS in the menu.
6. Select OUTPUT SETTINGS.
7. Set OUTPUT B MODE to OVER PRESSURE and then set OVER
PRESSURE to 4 PSI and close out the window.
URD sells the FTC calibrators in two configurations. It is sold by itself and also
included in the Supercharger Performance Upgrade Kit. The FTCs include in the
kit are preloaded with a “startup” map to give you a head start on your tuning. If
you got your FTC in a complete kit you will need to pull the preloaded map out of
the FTC to your PC. To do this:
1. Connect your PC to the FTC with a true serial cable. Select the proper
serial port. Turn on the vehicle ignition key to power up the FTC, and then
click on the CONNECT TO ECU button. This will connect you to the ECU.
The disconnect button should become active once the connection is
made.
TIP- Do not connect your Windows PC to the FTC until AFTER the
PC has finished booting. If it is connected while it is booting up, the
Windows “Plug-N-Play” will think the FTC is a mouse and try to
install it as such. This will conflict with your current mouse and you
will see the cursor go nuts and constantly jump all over the place
rendering your PC useless. If you have this happen, disconnect
from the FTC and reboot to clear the problem.
2. Click on MAPS in the menu and select FUEL MAPS. This will open the
map page. Map A is the fuel map, map B is the ignition timing retard map.
3. In the upper left corner of the map page are two buttons. One will write
data to the ECU (FTC) and one will read data from the ECU (FTC). You
want to click on the “READ DATA FROM ECU” button. This will pull the
map from the FTC to your PC so you can start tuning.
4. Go back to the OPTIONS menu on the main page and make sure none of
the previous settings have changed. These settings DO NOT down load
from the FTC and if you don’t have them properly set, when you write
back to the FTC it will change them in the FTC and you will have some
strange things happen that you do not want.
4. Select ENGINE SETTINGS, then select the number of cylinders for your
engine, and 4 Stroke. Then close out that window.
5. If and only if you have an E model FTC, click on OPTIONS in the menu.
6. Select OUTPUT SETTINGS.
7. Set OUTPUT B MODE to OVER PRESSURE and then set OVER
PRESSURE to 4 PSI and close out the window.
URD sells the FTC calibrators in two configurations. It is sold by itself and also
included in the Supercharger Performance Upgrade Kit. The FTCs include in the
kit are preloaded with a “startup” map to give you a head start on your tuning. If
you got your FTC in a complete kit you will need to pull the preloaded map out of
the FTC to your PC. To do this:
1. Connect your PC to the FTC with a true serial cable. Select the proper
serial port. Turn on the vehicle ignition key to power up the FTC, and then
click on the CONNECT TO ECU button. This will connect you to the ECU.
The disconnect button should become active once the connection is
made.
TIP- Do not connect your Windows PC to the FTC until AFTER the
PC has finished booting. If it is connected while it is booting up, the
Windows “Plug-N-Play” will think the FTC is a mouse and try to
install it as such. This will conflict with your current mouse and you
will see the cursor go nuts and constantly jump all over the place
rendering your PC useless. If you have this happen, disconnect
from the FTC and reboot to clear the problem.
2. Click on MAPS in the menu and select FUEL MAPS. This will open the
map page. Map A is the fuel map, map B is the ignition timing retard map.
3. In the upper left corner of the map page are two buttons. One will write
data to the ECU (FTC) and one will read data from the ECU (FTC). You
want to click on the “READ DATA FROM ECU” button. This will pull the
map from the FTC to your PC so you can start tuning.
4. Go back to the OPTIONS menu on the main page and make sure none of
the previous settings have changed. These settings DO NOT down load
from the FTC and if you don’t have them properly set, when you write
back to the FTC it will change them in the FTC and you will have some
strange things happen that you do not want.
Last edited by mt_goat; Nov 15, 2008 at 12:21 PM.
Nov 15, 2008 | 12:26 PM
#115
Contributing Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 10,666
Likes: 5
From: Oklahoma State
Here's page 16:
Underdog Racing Development
www.URDUSA.com
Version 1.0 © 2004 URD 16 12/20/04
A value of 10, which is neutral for the fuel map, was used as a starting point. Within
seconds of the O2 sensor coming online, the short term trim maxed out at –20.3%. If
you see this much of a change that fast, shut down right away. You now know that you
have to pull a bunch of fuel out. The next attempt was using a value of 9.5. That still
was a tad rich, so a value of 9.4 was used and that turned out to be the magic number
for this vehicle for a base map to tune from.
Now connect the scan tool to the PC and the vehicle. Start the engine and
overlay the scan tool display over the fuel map (map A). Now right click the
system status button and the bank 1 short and long-term buttons (some vehicles
use a second back of sensors, like the Camry and Tundra). This will tell you
what mode the ECU is operating in and what the fuel trims are. Once the vehicle
has warmed up completely it should report CLOSED LOOP mode and you
should see the fuel trims come alive.
What you are looking for is the direction of the short and long-term fuel trim idle.
If you have installed larger then stock injectors the ECU should recognize that
more fuel is going in than there should be and start pulling that fuel out. This will
be reported by NEGATIVE TRIM values. Once they stabilize, see what the value
is. If it is negative you will need to decease the cell value. If it is positive you will
need to increase it. You
www.URDUSA.com
Version 1.0 © 2004 URD 16 12/20/04
A value of 10, which is neutral for the fuel map, was used as a starting point. Within
seconds of the O2 sensor coming online, the short term trim maxed out at –20.3%. If
you see this much of a change that fast, shut down right away. You now know that you
have to pull a bunch of fuel out. The next attempt was using a value of 9.5. That still
was a tad rich, so a value of 9.4 was used and that turned out to be the magic number
for this vehicle for a base map to tune from.
Now connect the scan tool to the PC and the vehicle. Start the engine and
overlay the scan tool display over the fuel map (map A). Now right click the
system status button and the bank 1 short and long-term buttons (some vehicles
use a second back of sensors, like the Camry and Tundra). This will tell you
what mode the ECU is operating in and what the fuel trims are. Once the vehicle
has warmed up completely it should report CLOSED LOOP mode and you
should see the fuel trims come alive.
What you are looking for is the direction of the short and long-term fuel trim idle.
If you have installed larger then stock injectors the ECU should recognize that
more fuel is going in than there should be and start pulling that fuel out. This will
be reported by NEGATIVE TRIM values. Once they stabilize, see what the value
is. If it is negative you will need to decease the cell value. If it is positive you will
need to increase it. You
Nov 15, 2008 | 02:18 PM
#116
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 945
Likes: 0
From: Nashville, TN
I got it from the link I posted above for the U-tune guide. Maybe yours is different. For my FTC, map A is fuel and map B is timing. https://www.yotatech.com/50561878-post535.html
...
Maybe it will help if I paste the whole page 14:
...
Maybe it will help if I paste the whole page 14:
Ace, you need to down load http://www.gadgetonline.com/u-tune-aic.pdf
Nov 15, 2008 | 02:22 PM
#117
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 945
Likes: 0
From: Nashville, TN
He can easily get a new dash bezel from a salvage yard to redo it.
Ace, it's much easier if you put the gauges above the stereo as the bottom area is too 3-dimensional to cut neatly around the round gauge faces.
Nov 15, 2008 | 06:21 PM
#118
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 214
Likes: 0
From: Mill Valley, Ca
I know that with the 6 new injectors Map A is Fuel and Map B timing, For the 7th witch i have Map A IS TIMING, Map B IS FUEL.
I have wanted to hook my laptop up to my pc and run it in cam studios, but i can get my old pc(4-runner's pc it lives behind the passengers seat) to hook up the the LM-1. I have my girl friend drive and shout out AFR raitos, i find that i need to adjust the cell to the left and up to change the AFR. Print the u-tune guide, put it by you toilet and read it for the next week.
I have wanted to hook my laptop up to my pc and run it in cam studios, but i can get my old pc(4-runner's pc it lives behind the passengers seat) to hook up the the LM-1. I have my girl friend drive and shout out AFR raitos, i find that i need to adjust the cell to the left and up to change the AFR. Print the u-tune guide, put it by you toilet and read it for the next week.
Nov 15, 2008 | 06:46 PM
#119
Thread Starter
Contributing Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,932
Likes: 1
From: DFW TEXAS BABY!
Hmm, i was messing around again tonight and got the smell again, it is starting to bug me.
Didn't i say in my own post that is was not that great and that i plan to redo it later on using the lessons i learned? I know it is not pretty.
The Bezil was a pain to get right and i got impachent (SP?) as i knew i would, i just hoped it would be done before i did lol.
The gauge pod will be redone pretty quick as will the bezil as soon as i find another one for a good price. I actually want a black bezil, i am not a fan of the wood grain personally but then it won't match....
Indeed, now that i figured out what the maps are for everything came into focus! I just got really confused when everytime i edited the map nothing seemed to happen to the AFR's/ Now i know it was because i was just edited the timing map.
Holy teleto! 30 hours! No way on earth i could spend that much time on it, considering that i did mine in about 1/10th the time, i think it looks more the 1/10th as good (maybe half as good) so i did better then i thought. lol
As for putting them on top, that was my first choice as well, but my radio would only mount to the top slot. I tried the bottom and there was no way without taking a LOT of extra work to get it to fit right. How did you get your mounted in the bottom? special bracket?
You are correct, i messed around with it again today and sure enough when you are using the correct map it is amazing! things actually happen!
I started tuning it and got the AFRs to come down but the ECU was acting funny, i think because it got all messed up with the bad tune i had done before. So i unpluged the battery and reset it.
So i am starting over and hopfully this time will go much smoother now that i know what is going on.
I have to take a small trip tomorrow, i set the URD ECU to all 0's. I am then going to see how it does on it's own tomorrow. Then when i get back after knowing what it did without anything i will see what i need to do to get it in check.
My main problem at this point is i can't figure out when it is in open-loop or closed loop. I had some OBD software before that would show me but i can't find it now and the one i am using now has SO many features i can't find the loop type.
What OBD software did ya'll use?
And, does anyone have a wideband hooked up to a USB-serial cable?
Thanks for all the help so far, i am sure i will need more! lol
The Bezil was a pain to get right and i got impachent (SP?) as i knew i would, i just hoped it would be done before i did lol.
The gauge pod will be redone pretty quick as will the bezil as soon as i find another one for a good price. I actually want a black bezil, i am not a fan of the wood grain personally but then it won't match....
They're different Mt Goat. He's using the AIC for 7th injector control. Map A is definitely timing, Map B is definitely Fuel.
Ace, you need to down load http://www.gadgetonline.com/u-tune-aic.pdf
Ace, you need to down load http://www.gadgetonline.com/u-tune-aic.pdf
Rather than berate the guy for his work, why not offer suggestions on how to improve next time? Not everyone has experience in fabrication and installing gauges in a 4Runner is a pretty major job. Mine took me about 30 hours to complete.
He can easily get a new dash bezel from a salvage yard to redo it.
Ace, it's much easier if you put the gauges above the stereo as the bottom area is too 3-dimensional to cut neatly around the round gauge faces.
He can easily get a new dash bezel from a salvage yard to redo it.
Ace, it's much easier if you put the gauges above the stereo as the bottom area is too 3-dimensional to cut neatly around the round gauge faces.
As for putting them on top, that was my first choice as well, but my radio would only mount to the top slot. I tried the bottom and there was no way without taking a LOT of extra work to get it to fit right. How did you get your mounted in the bottom? special bracket?
I know that with the 6 new injectors Map A is Fuel and Map B timing, For the 7th witch i have Map A IS TIMING, Map B IS FUEL.
I have wanted to hook my laptop up to my pc and run it in cam studios, but i can get my old pc(4-runner's pc it lives behind the passengers seat) to hook up the the LM-1. I have my girl friend drive and shout out AFR raitos, i find that i need to adjust the cell to the left and up to change the AFR. Print the u-tune guide, put it by you toilet and read it for the next week.
I have wanted to hook my laptop up to my pc and run it in cam studios, but i can get my old pc(4-runner's pc it lives behind the passengers seat) to hook up the the LM-1. I have my girl friend drive and shout out AFR raitos, i find that i need to adjust the cell to the left and up to change the AFR. Print the u-tune guide, put it by you toilet and read it for the next week.
I started tuning it and got the AFRs to come down but the ECU was acting funny, i think because it got all messed up with the bad tune i had done before. So i unpluged the battery and reset it.
So i am starting over and hopfully this time will go much smoother now that i know what is going on.
I have to take a small trip tomorrow, i set the URD ECU to all 0's. I am then going to see how it does on it's own tomorrow. Then when i get back after knowing what it did without anything i will see what i need to do to get it in check.
My main problem at this point is i can't figure out when it is in open-loop or closed loop. I had some OBD software before that would show me but i can't find it now and the one i am using now has SO many features i can't find the loop type.
What OBD software did ya'll use?
And, does anyone have a wideband hooked up to a USB-serial cable?
Thanks for all the help so far, i am sure i will need more! lol
Nov 16, 2008 | 06:10 AM
#120
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 214
Likes: 0
From: Mill Valley, Ca
i have a scan gauge II mounted on the steering column. it has 4 out puts, I leave the bottom 2 on SFT and LFT, once the you see the SFT hit 0 and you are on the gas you are in open loop. You will also see the AFR move away from 14.7 once open loop is reached. I would not 0 out the urd map. I would load the base map, and run that if you dont have time to tune. You need to re-set the ECU after most map changes, the only time i dont is if its a small timing change. if you want i could e-mail you one of my maps for a starting point, but they are going to be differnt because i am running the 2.2" pulley and i am a 5 speed. You need to find the time to tune, if nothing else make it run rich in open loop.
