Texas_Ace

Yep, already have the air filter on it, i put it on it right after that video. Just forgot about it before the first start due to being to excited lol.

Really 11.8? That seems a little rich but then this is a high compression engine.

Right now i just have the truck running with the stock ECU, so i can't tune it manually but it will "tune" it's self over time. But today i am going to start on the 7th injector install which will allow me ot tune the AFR ect manually.

But got to get the wideband and boost gauge hooked up first.

giguchan

Well done!!!
I was hoping that you did not have any issues!!!
Best of luck!!

dbcx

Lookin good. Bet your glad to be done. How is the oil working out for ya?
Let me know any good or bad differences you notice.

Speedy

Yeah, 11.8:1 is what you're aiming for. Totally stock my 4Runner ran at 10.2:1 at WOT. 11.8:1 is the "safe" are for forced induction and produces a nice amount of power. On the dyno, once I went over about 12:1 my power started to drop off.

Texas_Ace

Yeah, nothing so far other then the PITA header install. Ran it for a little bit today and it is still running good, though i can tell it has a lot more potental. Can't wait to get the 7th installed and the 2.2 pulley.

Actually going to be changing the oil later this week, so i will let you know then.

Good to know, today i got sidetracked and tomorrow i am going gun shopping (hope to pick up another pistol and an assualt rifle if i can find a good deal). So tuesday looks ot be the next big work day.

Texas_Ace

Ok, so i got some more done today. Today i got the URD piggy back installed.

The hardest part was finding a place to put the computer. The wiring was pretty stright foward.

I ended up putting the computer under the passanger seat:



Running the wires under the plastic trim:



And then up to the ECU:



Sorry i didn't get picture while it was apart, i forgot until i had it back together.

Anyways, the wires that were on the ECU were a tad too short to reach so i had to extend them.

I also got the boost hose and 7th injector wires ran to the engine bay. I got the boost hose hooked up but I seem to be missing the injector connector to connect to the wires to. I am going to call URd tomorrow and see what i can do about that, i don't think it came with a connector as i have been very carful to not lose anything.

So i put it all back together and started it up, and it ran great!

I let it warm up and then tried revving it, the ECU is re-learning the engine since it was reset again but it did have more power for sure. But i can tell it is no were close to being tuned right. When i free rev it i can hear the ECU adjusting things.

The power band is also VERY odd right now, power comes and goes at random place like someone is flipping a switch.

But i am 99% sure this is just due to the 7th injector not being hooked up and the piggy back not being tuned and the ECU re-learning.

Tomorrow i am going ot either install the fuel pump or start on re-wiring all my stuff to a fues black and wiring the AFR gauge and my other new gauges. not sure yet.

Texas_Ace

Ok, one other thing. Tomorrow i will most liekly install my new gauges, 1 of which is an oil temp gauge.

I already have an oil pressure gauge installed in one of the ports on the block. I know there are 3 ports, i know 1 of them has a spring and is not to be used. My problem is i don;t know which one if the right one to use?

I saw a picture a long time ago that showed the 3 ports and what each was for. Does anyone know where that is? Searching jut brought up a few thousand pointless threads.

881stGenRunner

this is looking great man, keep up the great work and good luck with getting all the small details ironed out!

Texas_Ace

Yep, those small details are the hardest part.

Though i am on the home strech. tomorrow i hope to get my gagues installed and maybe even the fuel pump though i doubt i will get both done.

So i might start on re-wiring the lights and such.

i also relized i don't have a serial cable to connect to the piggy back. Of all the cables i have collected over the years that is the one i am missing...lol I just ordered one though that should be here be the end of the week.

MadCityRich

quick question on that piggyback:

How does it connect up to the ECU? Do you have to cut wires at the ECU and solder or crimp? Or is it a plug that just goes right in?

Thanks!

MadCityRich

Texas_Ace

It can be either way actually. The URD 7th injector kit comes with the piggy-back and just the wires. There are 7 wires, 3 you have to tap into the ECU wires and 4 you have to splice in.

But URD also sells plug and play adapters. I thought about getting one but for only 7 wires i just could not justify the price.

98SR54RUNNER

iTrader: (1)

This buildup is awesome. If you get the time put some more videos up. That engine with the headers sounds great!

THANKS!

Speedy

Get the 7th hooked up and start tuning before you install the fuel pump. My truck never needed it even with the 2.2" pulley. Might save you some time.

The URD ECU is probably loaded with their map for the 2.2" pulley if you ordered them as a set. That's probably why it's running funny. You can save that map, and just zero out the one in the unit to get back to stock.

Texas_Ace

Thanks, i do plan on making some more videos after i get it running right. I have a few ideas in mind....

I might do that, though knowing me i will most likely install it no matter what just because i like to have lots of insurance and love new parts. plus i am just that way...lol.

BUT seeing as it is geting cool pretty fast it might wait till spring if i don;t need it.

Well today i pulled apart all the old wiring for the lights/gauges/fans///. Funny thing i for the most part i keep finding i did it right the first time and other than cleaning it up some not many changes are being made to the old wires other then running them through a fuse block.

At the end of the day i have the entire lower dash torn apart and laying int he front of my truck. I had to get some groments and it is dark so i will have to finish tomorrow.

Also, got my 3 gauge pod molded and painted and learned a few lessons:

1: when using a heat gun to mold a gauge pod, close enough is perfect. If you try to get it perfect the plstic will out of no where start melting and bending all funny leaving you trying to fix it before it cools.

2: don't touch melting gauge pod

3: have water near by to put out fire

4: use water on fire

5: use left over water on your fingers that are now burnt

Overall though it turned out pretty good the paint doesn't quite match and there is said spot that melted and now doesn't quite line up. but i think i will replace it at a later date so both of these are not real important ATM. Lesson learned, luckly it was only a $15 lesson.

mt_goat

Ok, good tips

Speedy

Honestly, one thing that always bothered me about the Walbro pump was that you had to use a butt connector for the wire splicing in the tank. I've had bad experiences with butt connectors in the past, so I honestly didn't want to use the pump unless I absolutely had to and like I said, my truck was fine without it. Something to think about and as they say your mileage may vary.

Let's see some pictures of your gauge pod.

Texas_Ace

Really? I know when i installed one in my RX7 it installed fine and i didn't have to splice anything. With that in mind i might think twice about it.

And i will get some pictures of the gauge pod, it is drying right now so it should be dry tomorrow and then i will get some pictures tomorrow night.

Texas_Ace

Ok, update time.

So the last 2 days were spent re-wiring the old wiring i had with a fuse block.

The fruits of that is that i now have fuses on all of my stuff and if i ever have to get under the dash there are no longer 1 million wires. Otherwise that is it. I added a switch to power the backup lights manually, but still have to wire a relay and all that good stuff later.

Now for the good stuff.

I got the gauge pod installed and the gauges hooekd up. Not perfect but good enough until i get another gauge pod to replace it with. Paint color was the best i could find at the time, once again will work until i replace it. It was worth the $15 i spent on it just for the learning experiance. Next time should go much better.

As you can see it doesn't look too bad and it works perfect, the oil temp gauge is a little twisted due to the mounting in the back but i can live with that little twist.

They are all easily visable from the drivers seat and they work, that is what matters.




Here is one of the places i melted it:



For anyone that trys to do this themselves. It is really quite easy to use the uinaversal 3 gauge pod from http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/. The trick is to not work with it too much. It is like caulking, drywalling or any other things that you have to just stop working with. Because if you keep messing with it you will just cause more problems.

When you use a heat gun to get it that last little bit of fitment, just hit it until it snugs up, then stop. It will move pretty quick at first just like you want it too, then it will stop. If you keep the heat on it then out of nowear it will suddenly start melting and leave you needing my instructions above.

But i would recomend this to anyone adding gauges, by far the easiest way. It is even easy to run the wires to it.

While i was in there i decided that i probibly should mount my other gauges right as they have just been wedged in between the radio and bezil for the last 2 years, thus not allowing me to switch CD's without removing them. Lucky for me i don't listen to many.

So when i was ordering the 3 gauge pod i also ordered this: http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/Unive...-Face-Pod.aspx

Since i have a single din radio i had extra room there. Now this IS NOT plug and play for those that want to know. You have to do a fair amount of custom work to mount gauges in this spot.

First i used the gauge angle rings that came with my gages (they give them a slight angle) then mounted them to the bracket.

I then had to drill/bend/cut the braket to get it to fit in the lower din and be secure.

After that i then spent 3 hours slowly dremmling out the bezil to allow the gauges to fit in said spot. This was the real hard part. I had to slowly cut bit by bit away. But after all that it turned out pretty nice:



I over cut 2 places but from either the passanger or driver seat you can't tell, only from stright on. So it doesn't bother me. Now my radio works right!

I also got my switched connected:



Top 2 are off-road lights
one below those are the extra eletric fans
then the other 3 are for back-up lights, rocklights (otherwise known as LED's in white), an extra one for later.

Here is my new fuse block:



It is actually 2 4 fuse blocks i got from pepboys.

The lower one is normal 12v+ all the time. The upper one is a switched block. I have a relay setup to provide power to that one when the ignition is on. i have 2 extra switched slots and all the constants are full. But i can add another block later easy. This is one of the best thigns i have done yet, it is really nice to have everything fused for mutiple reasons.

Ok, now to the performance.

So i got the 7th injector hooked up and the AFR gauge so i could finally see how it is running. So i started it up and am very surprised to find it it running VERY lean. like 15:1 - 16:1 at WOT.

So now for my questions about tuning this thing. First when i have it in park and rev it it goes lean off the AFR gauge. I am guessing this is due to it not going into closed-loop due to no load?

now while driving and i WOT it will stay at around 15:1 - 16:1. still way lean.

So i hooked up my laptop and checked it out with both my OBD and the URD hooked up. The OBD is pretty stright forward, i just used to to check the URD.

Now here is where i get confused. i opened the URD software and set it up like it says. i first just watched and looked at the maps. but then i ran into my first problem, what is the differnce between map A and map B?

How do you select which one you want to use? is one open-loop and the other closed loop?

I then messed with map A as that seemed to be the one it was using. I selected all and changed everything by +50% just to see what would happen.

Well i did another WOT and my AFR's bearly changed? The ECU IS still in learning mode but wouldn't it run it too rich vs to lean in learning mode?

Now i was looking under the hood and i can smell gas? i checked the fuel lines and no leaks but i can smell gas. Either there is a leak some place, it is really running pig rich or that is how it is supposed to smell.

Now could my AFR gauge not be reading correctly? it is possible i guess but how would i know? the sensor is not that far into the exahust stream, i know that. But would that really effect the reading that much? I doubt it as when it is idling it sits and a almost perfect 14.7 just like it should.

So any ideas?

Ian Rogers

check the t-body gasket, i put mine in wrong and was running lean

Texas_Ace

Hmm, i am 99% sure i got it on right but i will check.