hmmm...headers off ebay.....have fun with that

 

Well that should awnser your question. Yes they are off ebay.

But really, i am pretty happy with the headers. Time will tell if they work that well. As i said before, for $70 i can't really complain about much.

 

I think I'd just cut the header manifolds so they are all seperate like that one is. I've heard that helps the gaskets last longer.

 

where did you get your headers, TA?

 

Interesting idea, any reasons behind this princable?

I got it from here: http://stores.ebay.com/Eworld-Perfor...enameZL2QQtZkm

Though i got mine at auction for $70, for the Buy it now price there are some OBX headers for a tad more that i would get. But these are pretty high quality.

 

Well as you know, metal expands when hot and contracts when cooling. The theory is this: The material between the header tubes (what is missing on that one tube) expands at a different rate than the head. So the materal between is actually trying to push or pull the header tube off the port opening with each heat/cooldown cycle. Something has to give. By cutting some of that material out you are relieving that stress. Much like an expansion joint in concrete. Plus what good does that material do? Its probably only going to help with installing them, so you might want to wait until the bolts are in then cut. Each tube has 2 bolts holding it in place right?

BTW, where did you get those headers anyway???? Just kidding please don't answer that again

 

Interesting concept, i just might do that. I could see how that could work.

Oh, and i got these from the moon, they had a special running with the light-speed shipping upgrade for free which gets it to earth in just hours. So i decided what the heck?

 

On all the engines with headers ive ever had all i use is high temp silicone, no gaskets. I never had a leak on any of them. If i put headers on my yota thats what ill use. Just make a nice bead on the header and let it set up so you can push on it, then bolt em on.

 

Don't know that i would trust that myself. Just seems like at the outrage high tempretures the silicone would melt and leak.

 

My exhaust temps run as high as 1450 deg F, so if you use a gasket sealer plan on those kinds of temps.

Another tip is to use studs to hold the headers on, that way you aren't as likely to strip the soft aluminum threads in the head during installation. Downey sells studs with steel locknuts, I'd use those myself. BTW Downey recommends that copper coat stuff for a gasket sealer, but I've never installed headers so I don't know.

 

Yeah, is there even a sealer out there that can stand 1500 degrees?

These headers are made to use the stock mounting studs/nuts. Plus how would you remove the stock studs to use something else anyways?

Just went out and held the headers up to the engine and it looks like they are going to fit just fine. the way they are designed also look like they might slide in without too much hassel but time will tell after all the stories i have heard about installing them.

 

Ive never done them on a foreign engine. The last header set up that way was on a 1980 CJ5 with a chevy 350 and turbo 350 tranny. I ran the header out of the fenderwell so i could run sidepipes,I ran that setup for about three years and never had a leak. I would like to see if it works on the 4runners. We have run it on some dirtcar motors as well, thats were i learned it. Keep me posted on how they go in tho, i would like a set, they did look good.

 

This guy uses high-temp silicone seal too:

http://www.thepontiactransampage.com/headerseal.html

Yeah sometimes the studs will back out while you are trying to remove the nut. You can also double nut them to remove them, but that's great if you can use the factory studs, sometimes they aren't long enough.

 

Here's another interesting writeup, kind of old-school but interesting.

http://www.slantsix.org/articles/man...s-mounting.htm

 

Well that is good to know, i will have to see what it looks like once i get in there, i might do it.

I just have never been a fan of the RTV type stuff.

Keep watching this thread then, i am going to have full write ups of all the steps and lots of pictures (if you could not already tell).

Yeah, just a little old school! though you are right, it is a interesting read.

 

Your gas gauge is incorrect. why do people try to base mileage off their gas gauge? heck, on my 99, the gas light turns on when i have 20L left in the tank!

 

I am not basing milage on the gas gauge. If you read my post i said i am going to drive another 100 miles or so then fill up again and calculate my mileage.

And yeah, mine also shows empty when i have 2 or 3 gallons left. I think it is a 4runner thing. It has been nice though when i forget to fill up and have 10 miles to a gas station.

 

New toy showed up today!

AEM AFR Gauge with O2 sensor and all the trimming, now i have a way to tell AFR's without always having my laptop with me (still waiting for OBDII interface to show up)





Looks lieka nice gauge, now my problem is where the heck to put it?? Seeing as i already have 3 gauges under my radio, i guess a piller gague pod is the best option, anyone got another idea? There are some more gauges i want to put in as well, like water temp, oil temp, boost (heck yeah) and just don't have any place for them. Would love to see what ya'll have done!

 

Getting closer to getting all the parts together!

Got in my OBDII interface today so i will be able to tune the SC setup after it is finished.




This is one just like i got: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBD-O...spagenameZWDVW

Cost me $30 shipped. I have to say that the hardware seems to work great. I tried it out with the software it comes with and though it works it is nothing fancy. But the hardware will work with any OBD software so now i just need to find the best OBD software.

Overall i am very happy with it. Install was easy on Windows XP and it works fine.

So what software is the best OBD software? Both free and paid? More options the better.

 

See if you can use this BR3 software with it:
http://obddiagnostics.com/index.html