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At least PB 'Blaster is not as bad as Anti-seize paste. I swear, if you open a bottle of Anti-seize paste for just one or two fasteners, it gets everywhere!
Two weeks later you will be taking a shower and finding that stuff in your arm pits thinking "how did that get there?"
Tried to leave work this morning and got the old clicky, clicky, and finally a verrrry slow start. I drove home and hoped it was just a door left ajar causing a light to stay on. At lunch I had to go run some errands and again clicky, clicky, and verrrry slow start. So I got a new 24F battery to replace the odd series 35 battery that looked gnarly and old.
At least PB 'Blaster is not as bad as Anti-seize paste. I swear, if you open a bottle of Anti-seize paste for just one or two fasteners, it gets everywhere!
Two weeks later you will be taking a shower and finding that stuff in your arm pits thinking "how did that get there?"
So wish I had know idea what you're talking about!
Originally Posted by fierohink
mileage: 135,507
oil change with high mileage Valvoline. Wash and wax with paste wax.
Tried to find the source of power steering leak. No success. Investigated a front end rattle at idle. Nothing found. I’m due for a tire rotation.
That mileage though.
Chasing leaks and creaks, so aggravating sometimes. Good luck finding them.
I checked and topped off all my fluids. I seem to be down about 3/4 qt of atf and have a leak in the power steering at a fittings for the in-line filter I put in after the flush. I have filters for both the trans and power steering ordered so hopefully that will resolve it. Also my rear was down about 1/4 cup, but I did have a little seepage from the gasket after my initial rebuild. The drip has stopped and I think this top-off is the last of it.
After 19 years of service the hardliners for the rear heat have faded into history. Or maybe it was the snap of Thanos? Either way it’s good I was only dropping my kiddo off at school when I came to a stop and noticed a trace waft of steam come from near the passenger side view mirror. I was able to bypass the rear circuit in the parking lot, refill with my spare jug of coolant (always keep spares of all your fluids) and drive home.
Good catch! My husband's 99's lines rusted to bits but he found the lines for the....'01-'02....I think.....are better and found a nice shiny set at the junk yard.
In Maryland I’m not going to see a salvageable set in a pick-a-part. I think I’m just going to run fuel line from the front to the barb under the seat. It’s “cheap”, easy to route, and repairable and splicable as needed in the future.
Filters and fluids. Oil change with ~5.5 qts of High Mileage Valvoline and a D3 Filter. Replaced the 2 Magna-filters I installed in the power steering return and trans return lines.
I cut all 3 filters open to check for debris and fluid condition. All were clean of shavings.
I’m due for a tire rotation and to grease everything. I’ll try to get that done at work. Plus I need to finish all the bushings in the front end to match the rears.
oil change and tire rotation. Also inspected all the bits and bits underneath. The end links in all 4 corners have some clunk to them and the steering is getting sloppier. Toyota McGregor our of Richmond VA had the best online prices for the updated rack bushing parts and the lower control arm toe adjusters. When those get here I think I’ll start to pull the front end apart and FINALLY get those poly bushings in that have been sitting in the shelf. Also just in time for LBJs. Oh well.
I gave the old girl a bath and a fresh coat of paste wax for the winter. She may have some scuffs and scrapes but she’ll still polish up and look good from across the street.
I replaced the lower control arm bushings within the last year - not bad at all. There’s a neat trick to removing the old ones using a small bottle jack. Made that part painless.
Just finished up the 149th (or so) oil change on mine today, as well as new plugs. Heading out for a 1,000 mile trip tomorrow...
I replaced the lower control arm bushings within the last year - not bad at all. There’s a neat trick to removing the old ones using a small bottle jack. Made that part painless.
Andreas
I bought a shade tree grade hydraulic press when I did the bushings in the rear control arms when I did the 3rd. I ordered new toe hardware so I’ll just blast everything apart with the gun and replace as needed.
So my parts arrived from McGeorge Toyota Parts Online. I review the different steering rack guide write-ups and felt confident this was going to be a st re Iggy forward repair.
mcGeorge was Johnny on the spot verifying my purchase. Using my actual VIN the solid roller parts are not correct, well not correct for a ‘99. I replied and explained that the entire tree can had been updated and showed the superseding part numbers. I guess Toyota figures customer would replace the entire rack rather than take it apart to fix it… silly Toyota.
Here is the play in my roller. I hope this is the root of my occasional shimmy.
Honestly, it took me longer to get my tools together and my Bluetooth speaker than it did to swap this out. Had I known how easy it was, I would’ve done this years ago as maintenance.
10 mile update, the steering has a little bit of drag and a LOT less shimmy at highway speed. I think I’ll let this wear in and then maybe add 1/16 of a turn to the nut.
This started with routine maintenance of an oil change; 5.5 qts of high mileage Valvoline and a D3 filter, 5 tire rotation and air pressure check. But since it’s February and 50*!!!!
I decided to fix the rear heater hoses!!!!
4Runners are great with the dual zone heater that has been around for ages. The downside is they run coolant thru metal pipes along the frame. And if you’re anywhere that uses salt on the roads, these get neglected and rot.
so today I also picked up 11.5 feet of 3/8 heater hose, some worm clamps, some zip ties, and my partial jug of red antifreeze.
Fishing the heater hose along the path of the metal lines is pretty straightforward. I ran both legs at the same time. Clamped then at the heater box under the passenger seat. Zip tied as I worked my way back forward. And tapped back into the original Tees. New hoses connected to the heater box under the passenger seat. Hoses zip tied in place to the old tubes More securing with zip ties. Reconnected with the original Ts.
Well I’m taking our state mandated two week social distancing to heart and fixing my power locks so I can keep people out when I go to work.
Good side of being a firefighter, we have a fantastic schedule. Bad side of being a firefighter, that schedule never stops.
Since I bought this truck the front passenger lock actuator hasn’t worked. I always attributed it to fire damage. Recently the left rear lock started being flaky. About a week ago I took the left rear door apart to clean and lube everything in the mechanism. I was hoping that similar to my transfer case actuator, with a little TLC I could breathe new life into. No such luck. I read Habanero’s write-up on replacing just the tiny motor inside the actuator, which even tho it’s about 25% of the cost, there is a big margin for error and needing to buy actuators anyway.
Rockauto has the actuators for about $55 each. 3 days travel and I had brand new Aisin actuators.
The left rear came apart very easily, aside from breaking a tab on the power window switch bezel, I was done with that door in about 20 minutes.
The front passenger was a little tougher and so, I took pictures.
Similar to the rear door, you have to take these torx screws out. You also have to take the bolts out for the window track on the lock side of the door. One of these goes thru the actuator too. Window guide bolt Free enough to get the 3 philips screws out of the actuator.
In the rear door, the rods for the lock, handle, and button all were easy to access and came apart. The front door had terrible room to work. So I disassembled the actuator still in the door instead of getting it all the way out because the interior handle rod and lock rod would NOT budge. A lot of hardware came out to get the front lock actuator out. A lot more than the rear for sure. New vs. old
08-12-2018, 04:20 PM
