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Should've known about posting this way, but nice thing I can upload a bunch of pics from start to where I'm at. Thought this was a section for serious restorations and mods, but reading a plethora of others' journeys with varying levels of passion and skill, finally got me enticed to putting something together.
I'll start with the original 4runner I learned to drive with that's no longer with me d/t a head-on collision years ago (hit and run, karma will be done). Was in the midst of doing suspension upgrades and learning my way through DIY maintenance with the help of sites like YT and other enthusiast forums and a Haynes manual. Wanted to save money on having a shop do the fun and turns out I enjoyed the challenge. The first pic is homage to it. I always miss it...
...so I naturally settled on getting the exact same model and year, but different trim package, and more mileage. So yes, used. If I knew then what I know now (coolant leak, fried trailer light signal box, no spare, ˟˟˟˟ up sparkplug thread in one cylinder), I could've haggled for a better deal, but I was satisfied and still am.
I will warn though, I did put back the running boards...they were on my original 4RNR, kinda like a keepsake, and it does help with using the roof rack from time to time and the misses needs it.
So technically the before pics. Not much different from today (mainly maintenance), but hey, nice thing about this section is the ability to tell all, which can be motivating and cool, as it is for me when I go here. I always see that 'What did you do to your rig?' Thread and as I read through the builds, I put two and two together. More to follow!
The more mild builds tend to be my favorite. It is nice to see you kept the second 4Runner on the road, even with the problems you encountered. It is all part of the learning experience.
I think for a 4Runner that doesn't see much serious off-road action, the running boards are just fine.
Thanks for checking in guys and gals! I'm hoping to keep this thread goin' since I don't plan on quitting with the Toyota and vice-versa (fingers crossed).
Alright, so next shot were some front brake job and the trailer ride back to the Midwest (originally from). So when I bought my current rig, didn't realize then the crapped out trailer signal wire box until the U-Haul rep tested it hooked up to the equipment. A couple thousand in rental fees a moment later I shamefully drove the 4RNR onto the auto transport. Size 32 in tires wouldn't fit, so I recall having to drive to an auto/salvage place for spare 29/30" ones. In retrospect, I should've aired down much much more. In a separate deal, I got the missing spare tire taken care of.
Having bought the rig in PA, I was in for a treat when it came to the undercarriage. I had it undercoated first thing, So dealing with those seized caliper pins during the job and previously with the original 4RNR, I had already gotten a pair of junkyard 4RNR calipers and went to town with the hammer. Back then, I remember reading about the TBU on YT member posts, and the rush of excitement on getting everything together, but I wasn't quite confident with wheel fitment and clear with understanding all modifications then. It be about 9 yrs later when I finally achieved that (first read about it in '07). Aftermarket stuff is awesome when it came to front brakes. At the time, I chose Centric and Hawk semi's. But hated the dust.
Then went on a 2yr hiatus out-of-state and left the 4RNR at my parents. Batt and fuel filter were replaced during vacation trips. Went with Optima Red. Hehe...and still using it the very last CCA, even though it doesn't hold a charge after over a week. Just trying to break personal records
Upon my return, had fun with the rear brakes. Went with OEM on replacements.
In '11, did the U-Haul auto transport thing again for my relocation, this time to the West, and a couple thousand in walk-of-shame-fees later, resumed DD and maintenance. At some point, I really believed in AMSOIL fluids, and while it's dependable stuff, along with Redline, both are kinda pricey for me. But back then, it was like a TRUTH. Admittedly, I thought I was taking care of the runner with premium grade fuel. Man, if I could reverse those decisions. But oh well.
No picture on rear diff fluid change sometime in '11, but I wanted to mention my mishap of dropping a small plastic fill tube into the diff fill hole. Never really saw pieces in the subsequent draining years later. Thanks to Amsoil...haha. It was also during this time that during my first changeout of the plugs, I discovered that the plug threads in cyl 3 would not accept a new plug. Found this out in the parking lot of my apartment. Too late to haggle a price adjustment from the independent dealer where I bought it from. Probably one of the reasons why it was put up for sale. Actually found a wallet pic of the previous owners underneath the driver dashboard panels...well as strange and sympathetic as I felt, it's my 4RNR now. So I press on.
But on the flip side, using the roof rack was an awesome experience.
At some point, parking the DD at my in-law's, a neighbor comes to the front door to tell me my Toyota is slowly sliding down the hill where it was parked on the street. Come find out sometime between my last brake job and probably the 2 yr hiatus in the garage without much use, the bellcranks had seized....dag gone it. I thought, 'so that's why the parking brake engaged after so many clicks.'
So some online and Haynes reading later, I remedied with OEM from somewhere online...
Anyhow, next project was a bit of fun, with a little frustration mixed in mid-way. Man if I had more than 2 hands, I'd have so many more GOOD shots to share. OME springs and Tokico struts, purchased back in '08 for the original.
Rear suspension was easy. Actually had fun time doing the rear suspension mod with the original 4RNR before the accident. Went with OME 906 on that, and I wondered then how I would go about the front. Well, 2014 was the time I felt ready and took the risk with the spring compressor in my living room (!) Forgot which spring I went for the front...didn't use a spacer. Frustrating part was one evening in the parking lot (no garage during my bachelor days) not being able to figure out how to get the lower front shock bolt back through. Had a Homer Simpson moment. So that night, I risked all my zipties in lieu of the lower bolt and tried to drive carefully until I got myself into a garage at my in-laws (fiancé relatives then) and figured out the rest.
Michelin LTX 275/70/R16 completed the setup. A decent mod that today still reflects the intended heights, without the pain of CV strain and steering/rollover/brake physics. At least IMO.
Last edited by 75w90mantraN; 02-10-2019 at 11:15 AM.
Then I had the pleasure of dealing with the P0420 code. Wanted to save money first and replace just the oxygen and a/f sensors before calling out my catalytic converter. At well over 145,xxx in mileage when I got it, best to change out those sensors and start the record keeping over. Invested in a $20 code reader then and was able to put the DTC on a yr and a half vacation before it would return. I spent a good afternoon in the parking lot after work for the repair. Always been grateful to the landlords and security staff who allowed me to complete all my DIY adventures without incident.
Figured out how to fix my trailer light signal wiring next. Amazon was great. Couldn't wait to tow at my next move/haul. Finally I can use the hitch and get its worth!
While down in SoCal, I hooked up my fog lights and figured out where to source a better schematic online than what came in the box. Took me several years to figure out some basic electrician stuff. But hey, majority of education and work experience involves a hospital, so not bad actually.
Having gotten married just before the move, I now had the security of a 2nd vehicle for the more invasive repairs. And with the better apartment that came with a garage, I was fortunate for ideal working conditions to service the timing belt, accessory belts, and water pump. That fixed the coolant leak. Only special tool I had to buy was the Schley crank pulley holder. The higher rated torque wrench and extended breaker bar I was able to rent out with a money back deposit. Only significant mishap during the work was snapping off the bolt for the crank sensor. Amazing what a zip-tie done right can do. About 4 yrs since.
By 2016, the P0420 code came back from its vacation and convinced me it was time for a new catalytic conv. I'd upgraded scan tools to better troubleshoot a simultaneous P0171 code and I was able to rule out a dirty MAF as opposed to a faulty one. Out of convenience, replaced both the PCV valve and grommet as well, settling with Duralast. As for the cat, I went with Magnaflow and their 5 yr warranty. I spent the majority of May cutting out the cat with just a dremel and chisel/mallet, and a bit of MAPP torching. Painstaking effort, but just in time for Cali emissions, which passed with no issue. Being able to read the data on the oxygen sensor readout was reassuring for one of the most expensive fixes for this DD.
By then I had come across more thorough TBU write-ups, so I got my hands on salvage 13WL calipers and went with Brembo pads and rotors, sized off an '05 Tundra iirc. Had fun doing a caliper rebuild with an air tool, but not-so-fun with drilling out an already-broken bleeder valve screw. Some dremel trimming on the dust plates later and it was finished, much to measurable satisfaction. No more dust, and even less issue with brake fade during downhill coasts/towing.
Before my move back to PNW, I made the most of my SoCal venture exploring some decent desert trails, Lake Diaz campground, Mt Whitney, the Sequoia Redwoods, and Trona Pinnacles.
Finally reached 200k miles in 2017!
Had an encounter with P0300 and P0303. Did usual changeout of spark plug wires, filters and fluids, experimented with a refurb'd coil pack, and changed out the spark plugs, including the problem child in cyl 3. I had to take out the washer from the new in order to get it seated in and torqued. That would later prove problematic...
Not too long ago, I finally completed the rear sway bar upgrade to Addco. I had my eyes on this upgrade over several years ago, but did not have the tools that I have now. I made an attempt a few yrs back, but broke off a couple fasteners, leaving it hanging on the remaining ones, which then rusted over the broken portions. Pain in the arse, and worse, the holes did not even line up with the bracket mounts. Had to tap and reposition to larger bolt holes and nuts to hold the thicker bar somewhat decently. I'd say there was some improvement, but I probably wouldn't do it again if I had the chance.
Then the time came for new rear shocks. At the time of the OME/Tokico mod, I felt the rears were still in good shape. By the time my SoCal venture was over, I had a knocking noise in the back whenever I went over a bump. I mistook it for the hanging rear sway bar, but after that fix, I still had the noise, and it ended up being a corroded upper shock mount that broke free. Unfortunately I don't have pics, but detail-wise, I used a rubber strap wrench and a cheater pipe to break them off. Bilstein 5100 off ebay was the deal I went with.
Also had the experience of dealing with starter problems. Again, pics are MIA on a busted smartphone. But reading again from YT and other sources online (except youtube or facebook), a quick cleaning of the carbon deposits made it good as brand spanking used.
Time then came for me to accompany Dad on a family trip that required the 4RNR in temporary storage for nearly 2 months. Got the still cranking Optima Red on a trickle charger and thought I'd return and just change the oil. Well, less than 10 miles out on the drive upon my return, I hear a rapid tapping noise in the engine bay. At first, I thought it was the truck next to me, but when it lingered on, I thought maybe a rodent's carcass got stuck somewhere and is thumping away. Took a closer look while idling and come find out that sparkplug I replaced in cylinder 3 had shot loose up against the air intake and the coil pack was separated from the coil boot. Uh oh.
That 4RNR sat for a few months until I gathered all my wits, risked the expense of a Time-Sert, and attempted to repair the plug threads. Tried without success to merely chase the threads back. It turned into a nightmare once I realized getting the Time-Sert tools out the extended tube was next to impossible even with an extended reach magnet pickup. So my summer last year was almost entirely spent in the garage getting the head off and back together. I took yet another risk to forego decking the head (not sure how I could deck the block), so I cleaned the mating surfaces best I could. It appeared to have some pitting. Well, I figure if and when the repair does fail, I'll go with either a used passenger head or entire engine, the latter which would really test my limits.
First drive after repair was not as smooth. Ended up with a $400 tow and diagnostics after stalling out on a dangerous road curve that I believe was from untreated gas that may have gone bad. Fuel stabilizer next time, mental note. Shop also found a vac leak and a botched coolant heater hose, so I took care of that, including a forgotten ground hookup for the coolant temp sender. Had been reassured no issues with the new head gasket install. Ran my own dry compression numbers and despite the deviation being slightly over 10% across all cyl, amazingly, no symptoms, and runs well. Since then, it's been about 4k miles, so fingers crossed...I'll have to periodically re-check.
Other fixes were jb-welding the passenger side mirror and the main rearview mirror after snapping and falling off out of nowhere. Part of the 200k mileage perks pkg.
Current 'features' are a moonroof leak that appears to be happening at the sealing surfaces of the glass itself as my drains are clog-free. The rear hatch glass is off its window track whenever opened. The driver door body edge is bent affecting normal closure. Rear diff breather vent cap is rusted over (got axle and diff leak traces). And my driver side valve cover gasket says "Replace Me!"
I would like to address the wearing clutch as well, though it's actually been treated well by previous owners and myself. That'll be fun. Would like to adjust the valve clearances at some point as well.
That is quite a bit of work. It is a good thing it was spread out over a few years.
It looks like you have enough to keep you busy for a while.
I have a timing belt replacement and clutch replacement coming in the near future (probably summer) on my brother's 1990 Corolla Wagon. I am sure I will uncover more things that need to be done.
CD player didn't work, I forgot, been awhile since I replaced with a salvage working unit, so the runner has seen some interior work.
MAF cleaning, desert environments baked the dirt, so I scraped it off w/o damaging sensor / MAF wiring diagram for 3.4 5VZ-FE, Cali standards, manual trans / MAF wiring
And more SoCal scenery! (Great parks/trails)
And to think I towed and drove miles to that state with a leaking water pump...yet not an instance of overheating before I would discover and fix! Love these engines! The tow back up the coast was w/o snow through the pass. I thought at one point I'd have to break out the tire chains, but I lucked out.
Enjoy! And thanks for looking! If anyone's interested, feel free to ask! Just not FS
Last edited by 75w90mantraN; 02-08-2019 at 08:46 PM.
You really have put some sweat equity into that truck! Very cool to read. I just bought a 96. It needs alot of love but i hope to get it back up to snuff. Keep sharing the ride!
Thanks Moto. All those pics were spread out over some 11 yrs, so its a neat little slideshow if you will. The updates from here on, as with similar builds, are likely to be more scattered as I progress, but I'll use the encouragement to get moving on my to-do projects.
Stay tuned! And enjoy the journey with your builds!
9 years and still ticking....like you, got started late on it, and I'm just learning as I go.
Lots of good people have posted on that thread with lots of good info and ideas, I really enjoy and appreciate their input.
Hope you get as much out of yours as I have mine.
Problem of click-no-starts returned recently. Still using the almost 9 yr old optima red with trickle charging on occasional weekends, it didnt make sense that the batt just stopped giving out cranking amps after a successful recharge. So I took out the starter and this time opened the right part that exposed the copper contacts and using a q-tip, got them nice and shiny without snapping fragile connections.
4runner sat parked for a week without trickle charging and it still started on 1st key turn.
Had bought an interstate batt as a backup about 2 months ago. Gonna keep pushing that optima.
Driver side oil leak is getting noticeably more concerning. Top offs are 1/4 qt or less every 4-6 weeks. Will put the long overdue valve cover gasket next on the to-do list. I pray its that and not a simultaneous source elsewhere. Finally read that oil leaks onto the clutch disc cause the clutch chatter/shaking as clutch engages in 1st when cold, that I've been experiencing for many years. Might get a new rear main seal just in case, but I would think the leak would be more serious if from there. Will also check that duralast pcv valve. Its only 4 yrs old.
Last edited by 75w90mantraN; 04-06-2019 at 12:54 PM.
Well, I got to my usual oil change and turns out most the oil dripping was from a filter that wasnt hand tightened well enough. Oil level barely changes after the fix.
Got around to freeing my rear diff vent, with some hammerin on a chisel. Rear driver side tire inside is soaked with gear oil. Its a matter of time before I get around to fixing that seal.. At least I figured it out finally. Rust pretty much camouflaged it.
Had a chance to use the roof rack again. Did pretty good for 60mph drive.
Once I get the 2nd car up and running (ps rack replace, tie rods, cv boot rebuild, ABS modulator replace), it will be the runner's turn for some tlc. After the highway drive
Thought its time for an update. So tires were getting old and worn past the edges from lack of tire rotations and upkeep on tire pressures. I pledged as part of my campaign, once I put on new tires, to stay on track with that. I settled with Kumho and went back to stock size. 265/70R16. Hoping to preserve my leaking steering rack anyway possible. Feels good to not spin my tires as I take off from a stop on a grade.
No oil leak. Rear main and valve cover trace, but I'll hold off. Axle leak stopped. Brakes front and rear still good with plenty of material. Moonroof leak occasionally leaks, but it seems to be holding out much of this rainy winter. Much commuting put on 10k on the odo. And no starting issues still. Batt is 10 yrs old if it makes it to the end of this year. I keep the spare charged in case.
Been delayed with work to finish the Honda but its coming close. Family had me help them out with a couple repairs on other vehicles (starter and igniton switch replaced, rear brakes, door window replacements). Got me a tripod for future pics. Soo tired of missed shots in my DIY life.
I took the plunge and switched gears professionally last year. Decided some schooling first and after finishing, went to work as a maintenance tech. Yes. I decided to go to the dealership after all. Not for servicing my Runner. But to service others. I wont get into the debate about a mechanic/dealership's credibility. I just hope to help contribute to its positive side. And do the best I can. Fun learning a new skill No screwdriver, no problem! Snapped off a knock sensor wire and had fun soldering it back before replacing starter. Sadly, the job was a result of a neighborhood shooting that destroyed the glass. Stay safe people!
I did. I was able to snake an old sparkplug wire down and without stopping. I could not find something longer then to see where it exits from the chassis but when I looked at the seal between the glass and the glass frame, I was able to see movement between the two. I tried silicone sealant awhile ago and I dont know, maybe it helped a bit.
I enjoy the work, but the scheduling is crazy like a clinic so I understand the nature of the beast. But trying to be thorough with inspections on high mileage vehicles is still a challenge in meeting the twenty minute or half hour allotments.
Front sunroof drains....
From the corners, down the a-pillars, the ends are accessible behind each side kick panel, easiest to see on the right side. The hose runs through a hole there and drains into the the sills.
My husband's sunroof was randomly leaking at the glass trim seam in the front center.
Have fun in your new career!
Glad you were able to repair the knock sensor wire,
hopefully no more 4Runner-involved shootings, eeks!
02-06-2019, 11:43 PM
