Biggest size socket i need to change a CV is a 14mm

 

If in Moab on slickrock for example, does anyone have a general guideline for how much is OK to turn and how far it's reasonable to travel with a front diff locked in a turn? Anyone know of an indicator to be aware of such as feeling drive train buildup, chirping tires, or if things tend to break without warning?

 

[QUOTE=crolison;51424499]Biggest size socket i need to change a CV is a 14mm [/QUOTE

I call Bull

 

Crolison, what brand cvs are those?
(paying attention to locker thread but am buying cvs soon, so....)

 

btw, Crolison.. might need to update your sig (bumper) BS as well with that 14mm

 

The non exploded one that broke first is a Toyota OEM cv, the other is an Advanced Auto Parts cv. I'm going to go exchange the broken advanced tomorrow

All the above




once tire is off, 10mm, then a 12mm, then a 14mm

 

sooooo how about that sas? Mr king of BS (wanted to do flipoff4 but apparently thats now YT inappropriate)

 

Manual hubs??
Ahhh, nevermind. Too slow fer my own good.

Was thinking about the new O'Reilly's (Cardone Select) but they're Chinese. Nothing wrong with my cvs (yet) but the boots are cracking so I was thinking of hanging onto them for uh-ohs and puttin' somethin' new on but can't afford Toyota cvs.

And now, back to the original program.....

 

Yep hubs, the best things since sliced bread.

I was going to get O'Reilly's, but it was going to take a week to get 1 cv, and I was buying 2 of them. Advanced always has them in stock at the main store in knoxville, so i went with them. Plus at the main store they are rednecks and don't care what the hell you bring in to exchange for a new one

 

Do you think you've broken more or less CVs after you got your front locker?

 

Never broke one when i didn't have a locker. They tend to break quicker when I had the arb due to it being a spool, aussie allows some play so they lasted a little bit longer.

oh and here is where i broke

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q2llyOMwl0Q

 

I would keep it unlocked unless you need it. You will realize it is much harder to steer around sharp turns with the locker on and puts a lot more strain on the front end components. I unfortunately don't have a choice because I have an aussie in the front, but I usually keep it in 2wd as much as possible to keep the front end unlocked.

 

good opinions, heres mine. having open diffs is no fun, going lockers in the rear is allot better and can make your tuck very trail worthy but tends to give font end bounce when the front tires try to spin at different speeds. when locked front and rear you can take your time and actually put allot less stress on your front end. lockers f/r will actually help you NOT break front end parts do to the fact that you dont have to work as hard to do the same trails you do before.. now if you get locked F/R and think your a comp crawler and try use the skinny pedal to get past things like the guy in the video crolison posted, then your gonna break...

 

Are you locked front and rear?

 

X2...that's what I do. I'll get all lined up first ready to go up and then hit the switch to lock the front and then turn it off ASAP.

 

X2...on the skinny pedal, it helps if you have an auto tranny too.

 

Not sure what kind of wheeling you do, but I would definitely disagree. I'm frequently trying to get my front end up and over a large boulder, ledge, set of boulders, etc. while my rear is on loose dirt, gravel, small loose rocks or something else with very little traction. A locked front will pull you up and onto the large obstacle in front of you whereas an unlocked front most likely will not.

A friend of mine and I had an excellent demonstration of this while at the Hammers in February. Locked front and rear, I was able to easily crawl over a number of obstacles on which he was denied. Even though he was running 42" tires and I was running 37's and even though he had a much more sophisticated suspension his front locker wasn't working and I walked over obstacles that denied him.

To the OP, I can't offer you blanket advice other than only use your lockers when you need them. I have a spool in the rear and a Detroit in the front so mine are pretty much "on" all the time. I don't really need that but my setup doesn't give me the on/off option that the ARB's do. Like many things, lockers should be used sparingly.

 

Any input is good. Specific situations like you just described are great. They help paint a broader picture and the more info that people contribute the better. As I'm sure you know, there's a lot of opinion and often times it's not the most reliable info so I like to see the unique instances supporting a common theme. There are some people that just have a consistent reputation for no BS or only posting up detailed and useful information when they have it. I dig it! I'd like to think that in a hundred trails or so (probably in the next year or two) I'll be able to post back in this thread and give my own ¢.02

 

If you break alot of CV's you need to learn how to drive and stay off of the skinny pedal.




Agreed. No real complaints about my Lockrights front and rear.

 

ouch!!!