VSC / TRAC defeating - is anyone closer?
Jan 10, 2005 | 07:45 PM
#102
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From: Evergreen, Colorado
Lee, I misunderstood.
Yeah. I remember the first time I drove up my driveway after getting the runner and the TRAC went off. I Thought something was wrong with it. I didn't know that TRAC existed at the time. I was bummed. I love my runner now, but maybe would have gotten a 2000 if I had to do it all over again...Unless...Go Ducky!
Just think- TRAC, a rear locker, and TRAC OFF...that would be some versitility.
Dozer
Yeah. I remember the first time I drove up my driveway after getting the runner and the TRAC went off. I Thought something was wrong with it. I didn't know that TRAC existed at the time. I was bummed. I love my runner now, but maybe would have gotten a 2000 if I had to do it all over again...Unless...Go Ducky!
Just think- TRAC, a rear locker, and TRAC OFF...that would be some versitility.
Dozer
Last edited by Dozer; Jan 10, 2005 at 07:47 PM.
Jan 11, 2005 | 06:11 AM
#103
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From: Marysville
Just to let you know It's Frigging cold outside, and I dont have access to a heated garage or a garage my rig will go under... so im waiting for more tolerable temps before i take the preliminary look under the dash...
Jan 13, 2005 | 07:34 AM
#107
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From: Marysville
Originally Posted by 2001Millrunner
I wonder if we can just find out where "trac off" switch leads to on a 2wd model and do same wiring....
70 degrees WHERE?!?!?
Jan 13, 2005 | 08:25 AM
#108
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From: Lynnwood, WA
Originally Posted by Ducky
I thought that's what I was doing....
70 degrees WHERE?!?!?
70 degrees WHERE?!?!?
"you'd have to excuse my friend, he's a little slow"
sorry ducky.
We appreciate you taking on this quest. Good luck
Last edited by 2001Millrunner; Jan 13, 2005 at 09:19 AM.
Jan 18, 2005 | 02:39 PM
#110
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From: frisco, tx
a little closer, maybe?
great forum! been lurking here for awhile and want to make a small contribution.
here is what i believe to be the pinouts for the normally open “trac off switch.” please verify before hacking at your own risk. i have not tried this “yet” as i do not know what would happen in the ecu logic if activated. that ecu box might be a little expensive if it starts smokin’.
http://community.webshots.com/album/254318478jhyxPZ
“trac_sw_pic1” pic is pin 26 on connector C on ecu. note there is no blue wire (L=BLUE) in position 26. it would be nice if someone w/ a 2wd model w/ trac switch could verify the blue wire for that position.
“trac_sw_pic2” is pin14 (W-B = white w/ balck stripe) on junction block 3 connector 3E located by steering column. there seems to be an additional bank of two connectors on this junction block on the bottom that is not in my 2001 manual or the 2002 manual referenced below.
anyway, i verified the wiring in my 2001 factory manuals with the 2002 posted refs below form other posts.
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...67700853AYrmcx
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...67699840NJHtLk
as mentioned earlier or in other posts, we do not know what logic is programmed in the ecu if these two positions were connected and closed with a switch in a 4wd configuration.
hope this helps,
mike
here is what i believe to be the pinouts for the normally open “trac off switch.” please verify before hacking at your own risk. i have not tried this “yet” as i do not know what would happen in the ecu logic if activated. that ecu box might be a little expensive if it starts smokin’.
http://community.webshots.com/album/254318478jhyxPZ
“trac_sw_pic1” pic is pin 26 on connector C on ecu. note there is no blue wire (L=BLUE) in position 26. it would be nice if someone w/ a 2wd model w/ trac switch could verify the blue wire for that position.
“trac_sw_pic2” is pin14 (W-B = white w/ balck stripe) on junction block 3 connector 3E located by steering column. there seems to be an additional bank of two connectors on this junction block on the bottom that is not in my 2001 manual or the 2002 manual referenced below.
anyway, i verified the wiring in my 2001 factory manuals with the 2002 posted refs below form other posts.
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...67700853AYrmcx
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...67699840NJHtLk
as mentioned earlier or in other posts, we do not know what logic is programmed in the ecu if these two positions were connected and closed with a switch in a 4wd configuration.
hope this helps,
mike
Last edited by mikNtx; Jan 18, 2005 at 02:41 PM.
Jan 18, 2005 | 03:34 PM
#111
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From: Ellicott City, MD
Thank you Mike - every bit-o-info helps in this case. Maybe Ducky is thawing out as we are getting weather in the teens here. I still braved the cold today to swap in a new set of plugs and clean my throttle body. I also dug around some more for anything that could shed further light on the TRAC/VSC drama - but came up empty-handed.
Andreas
Andreas
Jan 18, 2005 | 04:58 PM
#112
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From: Marysville
Originally Posted by aowRS
Thank you Mike - every bit-o-info helps in this case. Maybe Ducky is thawing out as we are getting weather in the teens here. I still braved the cold today to swap in a new set of plugs and clean my throttle body. I also dug around some more for anything that could shed further light on the TRAC/VSC drama - but came up empty-handed.
Andreas
Andreas
Heh Im cleaning out my garage this week-weekend to hopefully nudge my front end in and ill take a gander... thx for the shots... mebbie I wont have to dig that far up to connect a switch... speaking of was it a PITA to get to those plugs? what did you have to remove?
Jan 18, 2005 | 05:24 PM
#113
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From: Utah
The temporary answer
I found a temporary solution that only lasts one start:
1. Start engine
2. Go under the hood to the fuse box, find the one for your traction control, (etcs or something, the bottom of the box should show which fuses are which) pull the fuse while the engine is still running.
3. Turn off the engine.
4. Replace the fuse.
5. Start the engine again.
This will shut off the traction control until you shut the engine off again. I know your probably looking for an actual switch inside the cab but this way you don't mess with the warranty at all and it still does the job without a lot of work.
1. Start engine
2. Go under the hood to the fuse box, find the one for your traction control, (etcs or something, the bottom of the box should show which fuses are which) pull the fuse while the engine is still running.
3. Turn off the engine.
4. Replace the fuse.
5. Start the engine again.
This will shut off the traction control until you shut the engine off again. I know your probably looking for an actual switch inside the cab but this way you don't mess with the warranty at all and it still does the job without a lot of work.
Jan 18, 2005 | 05:30 PM
#114
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From: Ellicott City, MD
Adam,
Thanks for the temp solution. In an ideal world, we would find a solution that allows the use of the factory "TRAC OFF" switch that came on the 2WD 4Runners. Maybe we can find a solution before the snow comes...
Andreas
Thanks for the temp solution. In an ideal world, we would find a solution that allows the use of the factory "TRAC OFF" switch that came on the 2WD 4Runners. Maybe we can find a solution before the snow comes...
Andreas
Jan 18, 2005 | 05:42 PM
#115
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heres what im thinking, i dunno but here is what i came up with, couldnt you just run a set of wires from the box, use an inline fuse, so its still protected, but in that same wire have a switch in the pass compartment? then you can use the temp solution w/o poppin the fuse...?
Jan 18, 2005 | 05:53 PM
#116
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From: Utah
Fuse
Slustan,
I tried leaving the fuse totally out and going but the engine would only idle. I couldn't go anywhere so theoretically it would do the same thing with a switch. So far the way I explained is the only way that I know of and it works like a charm every time but, its a pain to do the whole process every time. The way the computers are now I don't think that without a factory on/off switch you can make a switch without reprogramming the computer.
I tried leaving the fuse totally out and going but the engine would only idle. I couldn't go anywhere so theoretically it would do the same thing with a switch. So far the way I explained is the only way that I know of and it works like a charm every time but, its a pain to do the whole process every time. The way the computers are now I don't think that without a factory on/off switch you can make a switch without reprogramming the computer.
Jan 18, 2005 | 06:48 PM
#117
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: frisco, tx
Originally Posted by Ducky
......speaking of was it a PITA to get to those plugs? what did you have to remove?
nothing was removed. its in full view from the floor. the junction block is just to the right of the steering column and the ecu is up and left of the brake pedal. the more and more i looked at the schematics over the weekend, it seemed the switch is just a connection to ground and pin C26 of the ecu. the thing that bugs me most is i just do not know why it was tied into the steering sensor ground connection. i was originally looking for the steering sensor, but found the junction block first. btw, the pics were from a 2001 sr5 4wd sport.
to help me understand this potential "mod" correctly, is the goal to disable the abs/TRAC function, the de-throttling function (vsc), or both? do we want the abs/TRAC without the de-throttling or will that yield a side to side fishtailing LSD scenario (guess) at low rpms?
a second set of eyes needs to review what i interpreted from the schematics before hooking up a switch, especially the pin C26 on a 2wd 4R w/ trac off switch to see if the blue wire is there.
mike
Jan 18, 2005 | 06:57 PM
#118
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From: Marysville
Originally Posted by mikNtx
nothing was removed. its in full view from the floor. the junction block is just to the right of the steering column and the ecu is up and left of the brake pedal. the more and more i looked at the schematics over the weekend, it seemed the switch is just a connection to ground and pin C26 of the ecu. the thing that bugs me most is i just do not know why it was tied into the steering sensor ground connection. i was originally looking for the steering sensor, but found the junction block first. btw, the pics were from a 2001 sr5 4wd sport.
to help me understand this potential "mod" correctly, is the goal to disable the abs/TRAC function, the de-throttling function (vsc), or both? do we want the abs/TRAC without the de-throttling or will that yield a side to side fishtailing LSD scenario (guess) at low rpms?
a second set of eyes needs to review what i interpreted from the schematics before hooking up a switch, especially the pin C26 on a 2wd 4R w/ trac off switch to see if the blue wire is there.
mike
to help me understand this potential "mod" correctly, is the goal to disable the abs/TRAC function, the de-throttling function (vsc), or both? do we want the abs/TRAC without the de-throttling or will that yield a side to side fishtailing LSD scenario (guess) at low rpms?
a second set of eyes needs to review what i interpreted from the schematics before hooking up a switch, especially the pin C26 on a 2wd 4R w/ trac off switch to see if the blue wire is there.
mike
No guts no glory lol... no kidding... uhm I just dislike the dethrottling.. seems to get alot of us in trouble, i think the ABS will still be active... I think
lol who knows.. im just not looking forward to the 60-70$ switch lol.
Jan 19, 2005 | 04:33 AM
#119
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From: Ellicott City, MD
Ducky,
Sorry, I missed your question regarding the spark plugs. No, nothing too difficult. This is my second time doing them. On the driver's side, I moved the engine "hoist" bracket out of the way for the last plug, and on the passenger side, I removed the entire intake tract between the MAF and the throttle body. Also, on that side, you should try to unhook the coils on top of each plug. Otherwise you'll stress the wiring harness too much. Pretty much, it's a very easy half-hour job. I used the proper NGK plugs again, put some anti-seize on the threads and was carefull about not over-torquing the plugs. Get the correct sized sparkplug socket that has a u-joint built in. I have a 20" or so long extension that works perfectly.
Let me know if you need any further pointers. FWIW, it was around 20 degrees outside while I did this...
Andreas
Sorry, I missed your question regarding the spark plugs. No, nothing too difficult. This is my second time doing them. On the driver's side, I moved the engine "hoist" bracket out of the way for the last plug, and on the passenger side, I removed the entire intake tract between the MAF and the throttle body. Also, on that side, you should try to unhook the coils on top of each plug. Otherwise you'll stress the wiring harness too much. Pretty much, it's a very easy half-hour job. I used the proper NGK plugs again, put some anti-seize on the threads and was carefull about not over-torquing the plugs. Get the correct sized sparkplug socket that has a u-joint built in. I have a 20" or so long extension that works perfectly.
Let me know if you need any further pointers. FWIW, it was around 20 degrees outside while I did this...
Andreas
Jan 19, 2005 | 05:28 AM
#120
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From: Mount Airy, MD
How do you enable?
Originally Posted by Dozer
BTW, that beeping from your moms rig will occour if the center diff is not locked. (Its the ABS overheating as the TRAC tries to keep up, or the Vehicle Skid Control activating). Lock the diff and go test it and you will see what i mean. TRAC is far superior to open diffs in most situations. I would like to be able to shut it down when I need to spin, and while in 2wd. All in all i have been impressed by the TRAC system off road. We should just have the option of whether or not we want it on. They should have at least given us a rear e-locker too. Then I would be content.
Dozer
Dozer
