NORTHRUNNER

Anybody know the procedure for valve adjustment on the 3.0L v6.
I am also attempting to do the headgasket replacement this weekend,any tips or things to watch for would be appreciated. :dunno

miket223

Leave the radiator in the truck, just remove the fan shroud.

Keep as many of the vacuum lines on the right side of the intake plenum connected. The plenum can be flipped over and can rest on the RH fender with almost all of the lines still connected.

Disconnect enough wires to lay the engine wiring harness on the LH fender or alternately it can be shoved to the front of the engine bay. Just don't make this step harder than it needs to be, it really isn't.

Don't disconnect all the banjo fittings on the fuel rails. It can be unbolted from the intake manifold and you can lay it on top of the intake plenum on the RH fender as well.

After you remove the intake manifold do not disconnect the pigtail coming off the knock sensor unless you want to replace the knock sensor and the pigtail. In the event that you do this your local Toyota dealer probably stocks these two parts for a very good reason.

When adjusting the valves the exhaust valves are typically too tight. When readjusting them try to keep them as loose as possible without going out of spec. This will enure a very long lasting set of heads without a burnt exhaust valve on the #6 cylinder.

When you remove the heads leave the exhaust manifolds and crossover pipe attached to the heads. Only undo the downpipe which can be accessed easily from under the vehicle's LH side. The heads can be pulled off the engine block as a pair with the exhaust manifolds and crossover pipe still attached. When putting the heads back on be sure the LH headgasket is on the LH side of the block as observed from the driver's perspective. A swapped headgasket will run fine initially but overheat in short order. When dropping the pair of heads back down on the engine a rubber mallet and an extra pair of hands may come in handy to clear all the straggling hoses and wires that may be lingering. Any caution spent on being careful about dropping the heads back down as a pair will surely save you 30 minutes of knuckle busting wrenching that you'd otherwise be doing if you were to drop each head back down on the block individually and then reattach all or the exhaust items.

When you get it all back together and go to set the spark timing be sure the timing advances quite a bit when you open the throttle plate. If it doesn't then you have an out of adjustment TPS and need to get that dialed in properly or else you won't get your base timing set correctly and it'll run like a dog.

I can't think of anyhing else at the moment. Did I miss anything anyone? Feel free to chime in. Enjoy your time well spent with the 3VZ.

Michael

miket223

I almost forgot.

When disconnecting the EGR pipe just undo the large compression fitting that is just below the actual valve. Give the fitting some penetrating oil. The vavle can stay on the intake plenum and the egr pipe can stay on the exahust manifolds when you remove the heads.

Besides disconnecting the air supply hose to the AS reed valve when removing the intake plenum, don't do anything else to it. It shouldn't require anymore attention for the job you said you're going to perform.

934rnr

For the valve adjustment first off you have to buy a micrometer. Second you need extra valve shims but you won't know what you need until you check your cam to shim clearences with a feeler guage per valve so you have to have you timing belt on to do so becuase you will be turning the crank to check each valve per side you want the camshft lobe to be pointing almost straight up to get the proper clearence measurements.
The intake should be between .007 and .011 and the exhaust is .009-013. I would do this check when toyota is open since you will have to visit the parts dept several times for intake or exhust shims and you will need to know what size you will need.
It's a lenghty amount of fun because you will be taking your cam and timing belt off and on make sure you write the clearences down on a paper per head that way it's easier to keep track of them. You will have to pop the shim out of the cam bucket to measure it to know what size you will need either larger or bigger.
Anyways good luck it's gonna take about 5 hours or so to adjust thme generally I would mark them per side 1-6 before you take them off when you do your head gasket if you don't have any valves that are being replaced clearences shouldn't change much if at all so if you label them prior to them being taken off it makes things quicker..

ARC M

inches



and for you metric fans
IN .18-.28mm
EX .22-.32mm