Utterly gutless, is this normal?
08-29-2003, 08:58 AM
#22
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Originally posted by Victor
Free mods? The airbox you mentioned. Advance the timing to 12 degrees. Get rid of as much weight as possible. Air up the tires for less rolling resistance.
Free mods? The airbox you mentioned. Advance the timing to 12 degrees. Get rid of as much weight as possible. Air up the tires for less rolling resistance.
08-29-2003, 12:55 PM
#23
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Originally posted by AgRunner06
I've also got my timing advanced to 12 degrees. It provides a noticable difference in power and acceleration. I strongly recommmend doing it or having it done.
I've also got my timing advanced to 12 degrees. It provides a noticable difference in power and acceleration. I strongly recommmend doing it or having it done.
08-30-2003, 11:33 AM
#25
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Originally posted by gwhayduke
The filter will run about $75 and installation another $25-50.
The filter will run about $75 and installation another $25-50.
08-30-2003, 12:15 PM
#26
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I got my Fram FF from Schucks for around $20 & thought that was pricey. When I saw $75 I figured you guys were getting them dipped in gold or something because I would never pay that much for a FF on my 2nd Gen. Maybe the $75 is for 3rd Gens or 4th Gens though & I spoke before I looked. If so sorry for poking a joke @ yuh.
08-30-2003, 01:33 PM
#28
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Originally posted by Paul H.
How do you advance the timing and what will it do to your engine?
How do you advance the timing and what will it do to your engine?
08-30-2003, 06:25 PM
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If the truck is not going over 70, I would check that accelator arm. Somtimes, there isn't enough tension to throttle it all the way.
Last edited by KING; 08-30-2003 at 06:28 PM.
08-30-2003, 08:35 PM
#30
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Could have the price wrong...Its been quite a while. But I never buy that cheap Fram schmutz. I figure if they build their FF like their oil filters then I don't want them on my truck. I buy Purolator or Toyota. Cheap FF lead to clogged injectors.
08-31-2003, 01:17 PM
#34
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Originally posted by KING
If the truck is not going over 70, I would check that accelator arm. Somtimes, there isn't enough tension to throttle it all the way.
If the truck is not going over 70, I would check that accelator arm. Somtimes, there isn't enough tension to throttle it all the way.
08-31-2003, 01:28 PM
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Originally posted by rreed
Most of the time the vehicle will not even downshift when you press it firmly to the floor going down the highway.
Most of the time the vehicle will not even downshift when you press it firmly to the floor going down the highway.
08-31-2003, 01:42 PM
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Originally posted by BigBadBlue
Do you mean upshift? If you push the gas to the floor you are increasing speed as your transmission upshifts. I was recently told by my toy tech that the trottle cables come out of adjustment quite easily. I am not positive on how to accurately adjust the cable. I would think with the engine off you go under the hood to your throttle body and with the correct wrench in hand use your other hand to hold the throttle cable bracket wide open and check for slack in the cable. If you have noticable slack then adjust to a tighter fit. Is this correct guys? Or close at all?
Do you mean upshift? If you push the gas to the floor you are increasing speed as your transmission upshifts. I was recently told by my toy tech that the trottle cables come out of adjustment quite easily. I am not positive on how to accurately adjust the cable. I would think with the engine off you go under the hood to your throttle body and with the correct wrench in hand use your other hand to hold the throttle cable bracket wide open and check for slack in the cable. If you have noticable slack then adjust to a tighter fit. Is this correct guys? Or close at all?
That is what I was talkin' about.
08-31-2003, 05:45 PM
#37
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Originally posted by Silver954Runner
Kind of off-topic here, but damn, where did you buy it for $75? I assume Toyota? I wonder if they're really much better than the Fram or Deutsch brand filters that AutoZone sells for $18-25.
Kind of off-topic here, but damn, where did you buy it for $75? I assume Toyota? I wonder if they're really much better than the Fram or Deutsch brand filters that AutoZone sells for $18-25.
09-02-2003, 12:07 PM
#39
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Dude, I feel for ya (sorry a little late on the post) as one once said, it's a gutless piece of turd. I spent over $3000 in performance mod's and still no big improvement whatsoever. That was also another one of my reasons for a stronger engine when I sold my 4Runner.
The FF is located underneath the passenger's side frame (or actually it's right in it) location is just underneath the passenger's front seat area, be prepared for bloody knuckles taking it out. I personally took it to the dealer to have it done.
But one big suggestion, use this guideline for automatics for re-gearing so you don't waste money like me:
4.10 = 29" tires (P225 & P235)
4.56 = Don't waste your money with 29" too high, you're engine will scream down the highway and with 30", might still feel underpowered.
4.88 = 30", 31" tires
5.29 = 33" tires
The FF is located underneath the passenger's side frame (or actually it's right in it) location is just underneath the passenger's front seat area, be prepared for bloody knuckles taking it out. I personally took it to the dealer to have it done.
But one big suggestion, use this guideline for automatics for re-gearing so you don't waste money like me:
4.10 = 29" tires (P225 & P235)
4.56 = Don't waste your money with 29" too high, you're engine will scream down the highway and with 30", might still feel underpowered.
4.88 = 30", 31" tires
5.29 = 33" tires
Last edited by Mohamed; 09-02-2003 at 12:14 PM.
