You have any pics of the motor mounts on the block or the belhousing bolt pattern? Looking at the pics of the two heads there are quite a few differences, enough to where I can see there being problems. Also are those pics of a reworked fe head? cause there's a hella lot of quench there.

 

What's the point? On a '94 pickup truck? If it was a street queen, and you wanted to waste time and money, then whatever floats your boat, I guess. But for anything that would see any trail time, it's utterly worthless. Have fun on that first water crossing, or the next time a boulder decides to bounce off your undercarriage, or dealing with non-linear power delivery...that's always a joy when you're rock crawling...

Toysme, you make it sound like rear/remote mounted turbos are THE way to go...if they really weren't as inferior as we all think, then why doesn't everyone do them? The only reason I can see for doing one is if there isn't any other way to do it, and you aren't willing to upgrade to a different vehicle, for whatever odd reasons.

And I'm guessing people recommended he drop in a 3.4 because it would be a heck of a lot easier than doing a remote turbo set up, or your suggestion of a 1UZ (or 2UZ or anything) which are far bigger projects than a 5vz swap. Putting the 3.4 into a 2nd gen truck/runner is a virtual bolt in, even with a supercharger it's not all that tough. That motor sure is not cheap, though. But time is money and a lot of the other stuff would take a lot of both.

Personally, for a 2nd gen that's going to wheel some, or even if it wouldn't, the first step I'd take isn't some complex turbo system, it'd be a chevy 4.3. Tons of torque, and can easily be built to a bunch of power, even before FI. Not as reliable as a 3.4, but significantly cheaper.

 

yea folks get real bent out of shape when you bring up the heat to run a turbo thing..lol its been proven time and time again false ,you do not need to have it mounted so close to the manifold.

 

Randomness
I wasn't saying do a remote turbo... I'm explaining why it doesn't suck as bad as many people that don't know any better seem to think they do.
In instances where you can't easily get a turbo in an engine bay, yes they are THE way to go if you want a turbo.
Maybe you should go back to the original post where the guy wanted to do it. I'm just letting him know it's possible.
Take stuff into context.


And FYI, the guy probably wants a 3vz-e turboed because you could do it infinately cheaper, have infinately more power for the money, and not do nearly as much work as swapping & converting an engine & TCCS system.


Sorry Praufet I had some pics of swapping one, but lost those during a format a couple of weeks ago. All v6 clutch/flexplates are the same. The bellhousings aint a problem.
I do assume since I've found several unused bolt holes across our 3vz block, that they're leftovers frm the 3vz-e. I guess some of them must be mounting locations.



Do realize that if you put fe heads, or a fe engine into a 4runner, everything is pointed at the firewall. The intake, distributor, coolant tree. Whatever else.

 

Since I've got it all ripped apart anyway LoL!

Yes, the quench is stock.
Piston

Head

The combustion chamber is somewhere between 50-55cc I'm guessing, but noone has actually checked. (Tho it should be in that range, I guess 54cc).




Praufet here's the oil filter side of a 3vz-e block taken from this forum explaining the oil passages.


Here's the oil filter side (front/even bank) of a 3vz-fe.



So ya, all the passages for the outside bolt up & our front mount bolts like yalls does.

Here's the best I can give you for the rear bank mount while it's in the car.
From the top


From the side


(I'll update the rear one if I can get a good angle of it, or find some lost 3vz-fe / MR2 swap pictures.)

The heads are different. (Pics from Fel-Pro's aftermarket replacement gaskets)
'94 3vz-e
Left head

Right head

3vz-fe
Left head (Front/even bank)

Right head (Rear/odd bank)





So yes, they should bolt in without anything more than mounting yalls mounts on our engine & swapping our TCCU, wiring & electronics over.

 

Exactly how much power and $ savings are we talking about? Infinitely more sounds like a whole lot. I don't know what the TCCS acronym is?

 

Toyota Computer Control Unit. The amount of savings is directly proportional to what you buy, and how much you do yourself.
The amount of power created is only limited by what turbocharger is bought. You can buy anything.

I'm you could turbo one for a few hundred bucks - it's simply a question of someone having the balls to sit down & do it.

 

i would think you'd get a ton of lag too, along with the risk of damaging the turbo going over a bump. it would be nice to get things cooler going in, definitely way more trouble than it's worth.

 

Holy dead post ressurection batman!!

But I disagree. For about the cost of NWOR headers you can remote mount a turbo just south of the engines downpine and north of the cat or where the cat would be and it would work wonders. For those making comments about puddles, easy, just route the turbo's intake piping to the engine bay...

Thats my next mod after I get done with my top end rebuild.

Now as far as the origional poster, I dont know if he ever did finish, but id think mounting a turbo WAAAAY back there would be a bit of a pain to get right...what 2" exhuast all the way back there all coated in header wrap to keep the engine gasses hot? And due to the heat and speed loss of the exhuast you'd be forced to used a low AR exhuast housing coupled iwth a mild turbine. On the compressor side of things I doubt you could go past the top end of the T3 compressor wheels....Toysrme256th correct me if im wrong!