Transmission options for a 2000 4x4 auto 4runner?
11-23-2011, 03:14 PM
#41
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My trans is also tired and with my new found power it is just a matter of time before 2nd gear lets go. While I have the motor out I am going to do it right.
I may be cheap but I still do things right and spend the money when it is needed. I never want to have to think about the transmission again.
11-23-2011, 03:55 PM
#42
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Do you have any pics with the valve bodies removed? Did you actually try to put the 00' VB on the 96 trans? Did you cross reference the shift solenoid part numbers for 96 and 00? There were a lot of changes from 96-98 to 99 and 00-02, but I can't imagine the trans casing itself changing much, if at all.
Here's a shot of the Lexus A341 VB I still have. Looks like a lot of the bolt holes are the same as your 00 VB from what I can see, and my 96 A340F VB fit this trans casing just fine. Give it a shot.
The tube at the rear is to lube the rear of the trans, and in the Lex and your 00 trans, it was integrated into the VB. Those inputs are still located under your 00 VB.
Also looks like your 00 trans uses the same filter assembly as the Lex. Use the 96 filter assembly with the 96 VB and there's no issue there, either.
Aside from the beefier clutches in the Lex A341, the internal gears and spacers were exactly the same between the Lex A341 and the 4WD A340F.
To do this 100% correctly, you would have went for a V8 trans with more/stronger clutches in the drive line in addition to adding shims or a drilled VB. This VB alone does nothing to increase the holding capacity of the trans drive line. It only reduces shift times to reduce heat, and ends up placing more shock loads on the trans drive line.
Here's a shot of the Lexus A341 VB I still have. Looks like a lot of the bolt holes are the same as your 00 VB from what I can see, and my 96 A340F VB fit this trans casing just fine. Give it a shot.
The tube at the rear is to lube the rear of the trans, and in the Lex and your 00 trans, it was integrated into the VB. Those inputs are still located under your 00 VB.
Also looks like your 00 trans uses the same filter assembly as the Lex. Use the 96 filter assembly with the 96 VB and there's no issue there, either.
Aside from the beefier clutches in the Lex A341, the internal gears and spacers were exactly the same between the Lex A341 and the 4WD A340F.
To do this 100% correctly, you would have went for a V8 trans with more/stronger clutches in the drive line in addition to adding shims or a drilled VB. This VB alone does nothing to increase the holding capacity of the trans drive line. It only reduces shift times to reduce heat, and ends up placing more shock loads on the trans drive line.
11-23-2011, 04:00 PM
#43
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The noides were different which is why I ended up deciding to not worry with the 96 trans. I didn't want to go to that much trouble only to have the ECU through a CEL.
The wiring inside the tranny was different as well, I would have had to redo that to use the other VB even if everything worked, I do not trust my wiring enough to stay working in the trans fluid.
Swapping the valve body was not a real option and just not worth the time to try installing the 96 only to find out it won't work. If i knew the 96 would work for 100% sure I would have done that.
The wiring inside the tranny was different as well, I would have had to redo that to use the other VB even if everything worked, I do not trust my wiring enough to stay working in the trans fluid.
Swapping the valve body was not a real option and just not worth the time to try installing the 96 only to find out it won't work. If i knew the 96 would work for 100% sure I would have done that.
11-23-2011, 04:10 PM
#44
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What "nodes"?
Are you talking about wires like these:
Those come out easily and you could insert your 00 wires. If I remember correctly the solenoid wires enter at the back of the trans through a plug that is held down with a single bolt. I didn't have to cut anything, just remove and replace the harness. Again, there is likely nothing mechanically different between your two transmissions, only the hydraulic controls are different.
Are you talking about wires like these:
Those come out easily and you could insert your 00 wires. If I remember correctly the solenoid wires enter at the back of the trans through a plug that is held down with a single bolt. I didn't have to cut anything, just remove and replace the harness. Again, there is likely nothing mechanically different between your two transmissions, only the hydraulic controls are different.
11-23-2011, 04:17 PM
#45
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What "nodes"?
Are you talking about wires like these:
Those come out easily and you could insert your 00 wires. If I remember correctly the solenoid wires enter at the back of the trans through a plug that is held down with a single bolt. I didn't have to cut anything, just remove and replace the harness. Again, there is likely nothing mechanically different between your two transmissions, only the hydraulic controls are different.
Are you talking about wires like these:
Those come out easily and you could insert your 00 wires. If I remember correctly the solenoid wires enter at the back of the trans through a plug that is held down with a single bolt. I didn't have to cut anything, just remove and replace the harness. Again, there is likely nothing mechanically different between your two transmissions, only the hydraulic controls are different.
Well the problem with using my VB on the 96 trans is that is pointless, i will just burn though it again. I would still have to get the VB done and doing it this way I get a built trans out of the deal as well.
Looks like i should get the converter, VB and trans rebuild done for slightly more then it cost me to do the converter and VB the first time. Plus this way i know it will be ready for anything and I never have to worry about it again.
If the V8 trans upgrade was documented and I knew exactly what i needed to make it work properly with no codes or other issues I would have done there but there is simply too little known about it right now and i am on a very limited time table to get this done before it gets too cold to work out there.
Last edited by Texas_Ace; 11-23-2011 at 04:20 PM.
11-23-2011, 04:25 PM
#46
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You'll kill the trans regardless if you don't upgrade to Raybestos clutches or V8 clutches/steels. The stock 6 cyl. drive line can't cope with heat or higher shock loads for an extended period of time.
And if you want to make some money, I am still very interested in your 4WD output shaft and extension housing, if you want to sell it.
And if you want to make some money, I am still very interested in your 4WD output shaft and extension housing, if you want to sell it.
11-23-2011, 04:28 PM
#47
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You'll kill the trans regardless if you don't upgrade to Raybestos clutches or V8 clutches/steels. The stock 6 cyl. drive line can't cope with heat or higher shock loads for an extended period of time.
And if you want to make some money, I am still very interested in your 4WD output shaft and extension housing, if you want to sell it.
And if you want to make some money, I am still very interested in your 4WD output shaft and extension housing, if you want to sell it.
I am getting the raybestos clutches and kevlar bands, having the valve body done and the torque converter.
The transmission should be more then able to cope with the power I am making now once back together. I have been told a build like this should be able to hold in the range of 500whp.
11-29-2011, 09:58 AM
#48
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Ok, so the transmission shop got my old transmission torn down today, seems I burnt all the gears lol,2nd was particularly bad.
I talked to Level10/IPT and was able to put together what they do with the rebuilds so this shop is using the same parts. The raybestos high energy clutches and replacing the B2 sprag gear are the most important things internally besides the valve body.
I also took the torque converter to a local shop to have it high stalled but after looking at them they told me I could just use the one from IPT since it was the same thing. I love shops that are just plain honest!
If you are in the DFW area Performance Converters is the place to go for torque converters.
So the shop just gave me the final quote, comes out to $1000 for all the work, including the valve body. Not that bad IMO. Giving me a 6 month warranty as well even though they know I will be beating the heck out of it from day 1.
In other news, I will have a 60k miles 96 transmission with an IPT valve body for sale shortly if anyone is interested. I could just sell the valve body separate as well. Till the valve body sells I won't be parting out the tranny.
If anyone knows anybody with a 96 (and I was told 97) 4runner 4wd that would like either a transmission or valve body or both, let me know. This will be a lot cheaper and faster then IPT for sure and it is brand new!
I talked to Level10/IPT and was able to put together what they do with the rebuilds so this shop is using the same parts. The raybestos high energy clutches and replacing the B2 sprag gear are the most important things internally besides the valve body.
I also took the torque converter to a local shop to have it high stalled but after looking at them they told me I could just use the one from IPT since it was the same thing. I love shops that are just plain honest!
If you are in the DFW area Performance Converters is the place to go for torque converters.
So the shop just gave me the final quote, comes out to $1000 for all the work, including the valve body. Not that bad IMO. Giving me a 6 month warranty as well even though they know I will be beating the heck out of it from day 1.
In other news, I will have a 60k miles 96 transmission with an IPT valve body for sale shortly if anyone is interested. I could just sell the valve body separate as well. Till the valve body sells I won't be parting out the tranny.
If anyone knows anybody with a 96 (and I was told 97) 4runner 4wd that would like either a transmission or valve body or both, let me know. This will be a lot cheaper and faster then IPT for sure and it is brand new!
12-06-2011, 03:36 PM
#49
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Well, just got my truck back together after getting the trans built and installing the IPT high stall converter.
Got to break it in for a few miles before I can hammer it so just have the drive home on it right now. First impressions are that it does shift better but not sure how the WOT shifting will be yet.
As it is, the shifting is perfectly fine for daily driving.
The converter is looser for sure, withholding judgment on it till i can get used to it and try some WOT pulls.
Ended up having the shop install the tranny since the weather turned cold and I didn't feel like battling it.
After I got it back, I now have a lot of funky electrical issues. 3 gauges stopped working (on the same wiring as the rest of the gauges so doesn't make a lot of sense). The Meth kit also stopped working for some reason. Then a few other little things. I disconnected the battery to see if maybe something needs to get out of it's system.
Tomorrow gonna play with it and see if I can figure it out.
I will report back on the transmission after I get some miles on it.
Got to break it in for a few miles before I can hammer it so just have the drive home on it right now. First impressions are that it does shift better but not sure how the WOT shifting will be yet.
As it is, the shifting is perfectly fine for daily driving.
The converter is looser for sure, withholding judgment on it till i can get used to it and try some WOT pulls.
Ended up having the shop install the tranny since the weather turned cold and I didn't feel like battling it.
After I got it back, I now have a lot of funky electrical issues. 3 gauges stopped working (on the same wiring as the rest of the gauges so doesn't make a lot of sense). The Meth kit also stopped working for some reason. Then a few other little things. I disconnected the battery to see if maybe something needs to get out of it's system.
Tomorrow gonna play with it and see if I can figure it out.
I will report back on the transmission after I get some miles on it.
12-07-2011, 02:46 PM
#50
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Put a few more miles on it today and tried launching it with the new torque converter.
The torque converter is great. No more lull after launching it before the power kicks in. Launches HARD now. So hard that even in 4wd I am smoking the front tires now.
It is also fine for daily driving. you do get a little higher RPM's when starting out and you do loose a bit of the feel in the drivetrain. Otherwise it is no real difference for daily driving.
The transmission I am still not too sure about. I expected it to shift harder then it is. It is firmer shifts but not as firm as I was hoping, guess thats the price you pay for cheaping out with a local shop over a place like IPT. Still waiting for a few more miles before I really try the shifting out, maybe it just needs to break in.
Might have to pull the valve body again and send it to IPT afterall. hopefully not.
The torque converter is great. No more lull after launching it before the power kicks in. Launches HARD now. So hard that even in 4wd I am smoking the front tires now.
It is also fine for daily driving. you do get a little higher RPM's when starting out and you do loose a bit of the feel in the drivetrain. Otherwise it is no real difference for daily driving.
The transmission I am still not too sure about. I expected it to shift harder then it is. It is firmer shifts but not as firm as I was hoping, guess thats the price you pay for cheaping out with a local shop over a place like IPT. Still waiting for a few more miles before I really try the shifting out, maybe it just needs to break in.
Might have to pull the valve body again and send it to IPT afterall. hopefully not.
12-08-2011, 08:26 AM
#51
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Thread Starter
Went by the transmission shop today. They said they will pull the valve body and readjust it to make it shift harder for free. So gonna give them one more shot at it before I send it out.
Starting to like the converter. It seems the be "breaking in" so that street driving is really not that different then before. The clutch lockup also seems to be kicking in faster as well, not sure why but i like it.
Boy does it have a hole shot now. I really need to get front and rear LSD's now. Can't even hold the truck still on the brakes anymore, just pushes though them and starts spinning a tire even in 4wd.
Starting to like the converter. It seems the be "breaking in" so that street driving is really not that different then before. The clutch lockup also seems to be kicking in faster as well, not sure why but i like it.
Boy does it have a hole shot now. I really need to get front and rear LSD's now. Can't even hold the truck still on the brakes anymore, just pushes though them and starts spinning a tire even in 4wd.
12-08-2011, 02:52 PM
#53
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LOL, no not yet. Will be at least next week before I do as well. Gonna wait till after they rework the valve body before the video. Dropping it off next week for them to do that.
Put some more miles on it today, really liking it. Valve body is better but still needs to shift harder. Better then before though for sure.
Really falling in love with the converter. Does give the sense of a little loss on the low end but it is so worth it once you really start giving it the beans. The launch is so much fun now, just spins the front tires lol.
Also re-opening the turbo option for this truck. Thinking about twin charging...
Put some more miles on it today, really liking it. Valve body is better but still needs to shift harder. Better then before though for sure.
Really falling in love with the converter. Does give the sense of a little loss on the low end but it is so worth it once you really start giving it the beans. The launch is so much fun now, just spins the front tires lol.
Also re-opening the turbo option for this truck. Thinking about twin charging...
12-08-2011, 03:56 PM
#54
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Thread Starter
I just tried a launch in 4hi with locked center. WOW, that is fun!
Also think I may have found a problem I have been battling for a long time.
With the center locked it pulls to the left real hard, any idea why? I think that is why I have had problems getting it in and out of 4wd recently.
Anyone have any ideas?
Also think I may have found a problem I have been battling for a long time.
With the center locked it pulls to the left real hard, any idea why? I think that is why I have had problems getting it in and out of 4wd recently.
Anyone have any ideas?
12-09-2011, 09:51 AM
#55
Wow, just finished reading all this info, great posts Texas! I have a 98 4runner 4wd and had a 99 tacoma 4wd valve body done by IPT, I hope I don't run into any of the issues you were seeing! How much was the Torque converter and send me that info. Sounds like exactly what I was needing. I would think your 96 IPT valve body would work in a 98 as well, IF I could confirm that and my 99 doesn't work, I would pick it up from you.
12-09-2011, 10:46 AM
#56
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Wow, just finished reading all this info, great posts Texas! I have a 98 4runner 4wd and had a 99 tacoma 4wd valve body done by IPT, I hope I don't run into any of the issues you were seeing! How much was the Torque converter and send me that info. Sounds like exactly what I was needing. I would think your 96 IPT valve body would work in a 98 as well, IF I could confirm that and my 99 doesn't work, I would pick it up from you.
When you pull your valve body you can compare it to the pictures I posted above. If it looks the same it should be the same. Post a picture after you pull it.
12-21-2011, 09:58 AM
#58
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Thread Starter
Even as it is now I don't feel good about holding it WOT between the 1-2 shift. They are going to adjust it again next week, we will see what happens but I doubt it will do anything other then make it ok at my current power level.
12-21-2011, 10:59 AM
#60
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