UKrunner

When flushing, do you guys remove the filter and replace with new before a flush and then replace with a new one after?

Or do you flush first and then replace the filter after you've flushed?

I checked the dip stick and there is just a tiny spot of milkshake on the very end. I think the tranny pumped out most of the milkshake already. Hoping a flush will take care of the rest.


Did anybody else's radiator fail to the point that mixed fluids exploded out of the bottom or the radiator? I can pour water into the top and it pours out the bottom just as fast. I have milkshake all over under hood, inside the fenders, down the sides and up on the rear window.

Team420

Wow... Idk what year ur rig is, but the 96+ models are known for the milkshakes... I had it a couple times in my 93, but thats from high water crossing!

I usually flush fluid with the old filter still in there, no sense in pushing all the nastiness thru the new filter, once you have fresh fluid in there (flush till it comes out clean!) then swap filters and top it off.

Also... How exactly are you flushing? It takes a lot of tranny fluid to flush the system clean. I think in total, it holds 12+ quarts. I usually grab a 5 gal bucket, fill it w tranny fluid, pull both the lines from the rad, determine which is the return, and which is the feed, and put the return line into the full bucket of frssh juice, then put the feed line in another empty 5 gal bucket. Sometimes, the system will get air bound, and not suck the fluid outta the bucket on its own, so I make marks about every inch up the inside of the buckets so I can see how fast its moving, if it pushes more out than it sucks in, you gotta stop the engine, and fill by hand, then repeat...

skjos

For a normal flush, I replace the filter before the flush.

But for a mikeshake, I might drop the pan and clean out the milkshake, remove the filter and clean it.
Reinstall the pan and filter (maybe without the FIPG)
Flush the transmission fluid until clean
Drop the pan and replace the filter.

The filter is a screen that can be cleaned pretty well, but I just replace it for piece of mind.

bobbybouche

What Team420 said, flush then change filter and top off. I think my buddies took about 16 quarts total after flush, filter then top off.

UKrunner

I was pretty much in line with what you guys where thinking. I think I will drop the pan first and clean out everything I can by hand, and spray the snot out of the filter with break clean and re assemble.
When I pulled the pan drain plug, not a single drop came out. I an seriously hoping it pumped most of the milkshake out.

I was going to do the 5 gallon bucket flush but hadnt thought about the marks on the side - good idea. I have 16 qts here to start and can get another 4 right away if needed.


Fingers crossed.

Cant find a rad locally though, nearest is 80 miles away otherwise its Monday at the earliest. I'm going to have to flush this in stages so as not to over heat the engine.

UKrunner

Spraying the valve body and everything I can get at with brake cleaner a good idea? Parts counter people seem to think so.

UKrunner

Got some pictures to post later.

Ok, seems to be making progress. I ran out of fluid but by then the milkshake was much thinner and cleaner. Also have drive back in all positions. I'm guessing another 20 qts will be required.

I am really happy to see that there was very little clutch material on the magnets and in the pan. This tranny looked to have never been openedand at 176,000 miles was in great health.

UKrunner

Ok, we are getting there. Flushed through 32qts but it seems to be the right color now but still a bit "thick." It isnt transparent. I'm going to let the sample settle and see if this is foaming or still milkshake. I have another 8 qts left to flush through then it will have to wait until tomorrow for more.

Total number of qts purchased = 56. Judging by others on here, I need between another 14 and 34 qts. Total spent so far = $109 including 3 cans of brake cleaner.

Today I drove the route it was on when it blew, you can see the line of milkshake all over the road.

DRCOFFEE

How are you flushing it? Drain and fill method or pumping it thru the cooler line?

donomite49

what causes the milkshake? plastic tank radiator? anybody know?

mazaa

Last year I bought a Tundra V8 4x4 from a co-worker that already had the two fluids mixed up quiet badly, took a new rad and 20 gallons of wally ATF fluid. IMO do not replace the filter right away. In my experience the shake sticks more in the cooling system than the tranny.

It took 18ish gallons of cheap wally ATF fluid until it ran red. (Just disconnected the send line coming to the rad, put a pan underneath, start the truck for few seconds (20ish), a few quarts of shake will comeout, at the first sign of sputtering turn off the engine, fill app equal amount via dipstick......repeat), Its has been a year and it runs as it ran before, I plan to just drain n fill via the pan every 1k miles).

On the new rad, connect the tranny's send and receive together, his way if it ever fails again, you will not loose all the antifreeze and avoid overheating issues. Install a external cooler ( I bought mine at D&E automotive supply, both for the T4R and the Tundra)

Here are couple of pics

http://flickr.com/gp/50011705@N07/W53f57
http://www.flickr.com/photos/50011705@N07/6039576859/

It happens cuz the tranny cooler is built within the radiator, and overtime it cracks inside mixing the two fluids, bad design.

Below is my thread on Tundra Solutions, should be same process

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum.../t-218343.html

O one more thing, in order to recycle the old gunk, fillup gallon containers of milk/distilled water with the gunky fluid and let it sit, you will see that the oil will rise to the top and the bottom will have very clear looking fluid, just punch a very small hole in the bottom of the milk jug and let the water drain (while doing this try not to disturb the jug too much during the process)

UKrunner

DONE!!
Actually, I dont know why yet, but what's coming out of the transmission is CLEANER than the stuff in the 5 gallon bucket. Scary.


Ok, so, I did the pull off hose shove in bucket, fill through dipstick tube while running method. But of course, I could only run for 30 seconds and then had to shut it off due to no cooling. Wait 15 minutes and repeat.

I pulled the pan off to start and cleaned out the filter with brake cleaner then put it back in and bolted up. I didnt worry about redoing the fpg. Then I ran through 60 ish quarts over the next 2 days until it finally ran clear about an hour ago. I noticed that if I really overfilled it, tons more milkshake came out of what was almost clean fluid before. So a note to others, overfill the tranny when doing this. You wont damage it as it'll only be overfilled for a couple of minutes as you pump it out into a bucket.

I wished I'd have seen the milk method earlier - I just sent 15 gallons to the recycler

mazaa

Great, If I may suggest one more thing for the cooling system cleanup. With the new Rad in and after your initial cleanup only fill it with water/distilled water, go for a drive with the heat up all the way and fan to the highest setting, to fully open the thermostat. Once you stop and it is safe to open the radiator cap, check to see if you see bits of shake floating on the top, siphon and repeat...once again as the hot water in the cooling system is circulated the oily stuff sticking inside will breakaway and float to the top.

UKrunner

I've been trickling a garden hose into the top radiator hose and lifting out a ton of milkshake. Been doing that most of the weekend. Some has poured out the bottom hose too. There was a fair amount of it - has to be several quarts. With that, and what was all over the engine bay and the road, there cant be to much left in there. I'm itching to a get a radiator in there and start flushing the engine. I want my 4rnr back!

Team420

Ya, I think it took me 2 5gal buckests of atf to fully flush mine... And DEF DO OVERFILL the trans while flushing... there are some ports/chambers in there that you will not reach during the flush without overfilling, or driving and hitting overdrive. I know this, because the 1st time I had the milkshake issue, it was from a high water crossing (my bud got stuck in a brook in front of me, and I got stuck trying to back out, water up to the windshield, lol), anyway, when I finally got home (maybe 2 mi away, at 25mph) I checked the tranny fluid via the dipstick, and all looked well, drove a few more miles and checked again, still fine, then the next day, I set out on a 400mi trip, and about 300 mi into the trip at 70mph on highway, my tranny started slipping, I got out and check the dipstick and it was all covered with strawberry milkshake, so Idk where the water was hanging out, but it didnt mix with my tranny fluid till after I was on the highway in overdrive for a bit....

smokey0066

wow its sad to see this continuing to occur. I did a radiator swap last year as PM to avoid having to go through this.

Here was my post of my old radiator.

UKrunner

go-part.com seem to not be answering the phone or returning calls. I want a koyo rad but it looks like I'm going to have to settle for a ready-rad from my local parts store. Anyone have any experiences with Ready-Rad radiators?

I am also buying an external cooler, just to be safe.

UKrunner

Finally got a radiator in yesterday and have been trying to remove as much mikshake from the cooling system as possible. Took it out for a test drive and the transmission shifts smooth but it just doesnt feel right. Cant put my finger on it.

Today after another coolant flush I took it out for another drive. Felt the same. Pulled a cooler line to sample some fluid, and its dark Its not milkshakey but its not clear. I doubt I'm going to be able to save this transmission. There's been some amount of coolant in there now for 2 weeks. I'm not sure if this darkening is still coolant or clutch material so I've left the sample in a clear container to sit on my work bench for a while. I'll check it later to see if there are any solids that separate.

Thoroughly bummed.

UKrunner

1700 miles later and p0753 shows up. I'm guessing this is the beginning of the end.

x2468

Hey, I am going through a similar issue, although mine was caused by a water crossing. I figured we'd share notes. I put 8 quarts of cheap atf through, then 20 quarts of synthetic until it all came out clean as new stuff. I noticed it was clean when coming out, but would become merky when i shfited through the gears. But after I let the bucket sit, what was in it was pretty much clear again, so i figured it was just merky from being shooken up. Maybe I should have ran more quarts through my trans? When i check the dipstick now, it looks clean. Anyway to know for sure? Maybe another flush is in order?

The trans runs really well on the highway, but when it is cold and driven around town it shifts really hard from 1-2 and 2-3. Also a harsh shift from P-R and N-D that correlates with the hard shifts when cold, but also happens at random sometimes. I see you are throwing a code for the shift solenoid. Mine has not thrown any codes, but could the shift solenoid slowly be going out? or does it not act that way?