I installed my SAW Racerunner's last night and today, while driving around, I notice a strange "clunk" while going over rr tracks, speed bumps, etc. I don't hear it while hitting smaller holes and such. Is there a breaking-in/settling period? Everything is pretty tight and cranked down well, the only thing I noticed was my endlink bushings were cracked and dry-rotted but I'm sure that has nothing to do with it.

One other thing... I didn't have time to level the truck out, so I don't have them cranked as far as I would like. There is probably 1 1/2" - 2" of thread showing.

 

did you also replace the rear shocks? I had the same sound when I just put my rear ome shocks on and didn't get the stem tight and the bushing got eaten up and fell off and then the shock would clunk when I hit bumps. just had to replace the polyurethane bushing and that was it. check to make sure you have the three bolts on top of the SAWs tight too.

 

You should measure to see how much lift you actually got--the new batches of SAWs have stiffer springs--I cranked mine(Tundra Valved) less then 2'' of thread and I'm sitting at 14.25 with a TJM. Apparently the older ones had to be cranked up much more. Hope this helps.

 

keisur do you have a pic of what you are talking about? I might be installing these soon too, and I don't want to run into anything unexpected...

 

keisur - I put used rear Downey springs in 2 days ago. The Bilstein shocks I've had on for about a year now (I didn't touch them). The rear was/is okay. I'll double-check to make sure the connections are tight again.

gringo - These SAWs (I thought) are from the "new" batch. They were part of the order Mike has been waiting on forever. I had remembered a thread where someone spoke of the newer SAWs having tighter springs so I didn't crank them as much. It was getting late so I didn't mess with tweaking it to make it level. It's probably closer to 1 1/2" right now and it's not level.

I did have to drill those bottom inserts from 1/2" to 9/16" in order to accept the bolt (SAW screwed up).

I'll try and take some pics later and post tonight.

 

What's new.

 

It's always nice to find these things out after you've torn your truck apart!

 

I put the rear cone bump stop back (with intentions of removing/cutting it later). What is the best way to cut that back? Bandsaw? Also, how much of that do I really need to keep?

 

just make sure when you install them that you get the stem nut (top) of the shock tight enough. you put a washer on the stem then a bushing, then you put the stem through the hole in the bracket on the body, then put on a centralizer and a bushing and then a washer and then the nut. I didn't have the nut tight enough so there was play between the bushings and the lower bushing got eaten up and fell out leaving a big gap for the shock to shift and caused a clunk. the stem nut is hard to get at ontop of the shock braket under the body so it is hard to tell at only an 1/8th of a turn if it's tight. I'll try to find some pics but I can't promise anything. it was just my fault for being in a hurry and not making sure it was tight.

I just used a hack saw, it doesn't have to be pretty.

 

I heard a rumor that some saws were being shipped uncharged.
dunno for sure though.

 

I installed SAW racerunner coilovers on My 99 Taco and had a clunking same as you. I took it to Schwabs for an alignment since my geometry was a little off with the 2 inches of lift I gave it. The tech said my top stem nuts were loose, so I tightened them down. The clunking got worse. So I thought I would go the other way just for kicks and loosened them to where there was almost no tension on the nuts at all. It completey took care of the clunking. I check the nuts sometimes to make sure they dont come off but they're nylock so that's held them in place. I think what happened was that tightening the nut down too much squished the elastomer bushings so they couldnt dampen the way they were designed. Hope this helps

 

OK GUYS, HERES THE PROB:

the newest batch of SAWs with Tundra valving that came off the line have all had this "clunk". you need to call Ryan @ SAW and tell him this. he will then pay for you to ship them back and then theyll ship you a free set of the corrected SAWs.

there was a very long post on TTORA national board on this...im gonna search for it in a sec.

 

the problem (176 replies): http://forums.delphiforums.com/n/mb/...ry&msg=99993.1

the fix: http://forums.delphiforums.com/n/mb/...y&msg=100770.1

 

Thanks RT... I thought I was going to loose my mind over this. Since it's close to X-mas and all, I thought I'd put off checking into this until the first of the year. Thanks for keeping my thread in mind!

Daren

 

I should be receiving my revalved saws Monday. The clunking sound drove me nuts...

Thumbs up for SwayAway for taking care of this issue immediately.

 

Does this clunking sound happen alot, or just offroad?
I haven't heard the sound you're describing all the time, but only when offroad. I think it might also be my skid plate making noise.
It sounds like it's coming from the right side, only when I put the tire on a rock or go through a rut on that side or go fast on rough rocky terrain.
Oh yeah, did you guys get the right size bushings for the bottom of the shock mount with your SAWs? If not what did you do?

 

A couple of guys drilled them out so they fit and others sent them back to get the correct size.

 

So what am I supposed to do, leave the front of my vehicle up on jackstands and take the bus? This blows. I've noticed this clunk on occasion, but not on a regular basis. For a while I thought I had a bad ball joint. I've still got my old shocks/springs for the front, anybody got a pair of spacers I can borrow for a couple weeks?

 

I'm right there with ya M.C. What bites for me is that I sold my spacers right before finding this out. Luckily I'll have a company truck to drive for a couple of weeks.

 

Too bad you guys have to tear the front end appart for the second time to correct SAW's mistake. There is no excuse for the faulty product even making it's way out of the factory. Nice quality control! They should be paying you for the labor and inconvience.