Steps to Replace a Broken CV Joint on 98 Taco?
01-21-2009, 11:27 AM
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Steps to Replace a Broken CV Joint on 98 Taco?
I haven't really done much work on newer ifs parts and was wondering if someone could post the steps of replacing my pass. side CV axle on a 98 Tacoma with auto hubs
01-21-2009, 11:40 AM
#2
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I have manual hubs on mine, and it is pretty simple. I am not sure how the auto hubs are but here is a link that might help you.
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/cv_axle/
Ill try to find one for the auto hubs.
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/cv_axle/
Ill try to find one for the auto hubs.
01-21-2009, 11:42 AM
#3
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Sorry I havn't even read that link before, but it does tell you how to do it for auto hubs.
For Stock ADD/permanent hub flanges:
7) Using a flathead screwdriver, work the large black dust cap off the end of the hub. This is best done by tapping on the end of the screwdriver as you work around the cap to pry it off.
8) Using a pliers, bend the safety cotter pin straight. Pull out the cotter pin and the star-shaped lock cap.
9) In order to remove the hub nut, you�ll need a friend to sit inside and stand on the brakes. The hub nut torque is spec'ed to 174 ft-lbs at the factory, which is a LOT. This nut requires a 35mm socket and a hefty torque bar or impact wrench for removal. The thread direction is "normal", so you loosen it counter-clockwise. Left and right axles are identical. Tip: A few years ago I had a very hard time finding a true 35mm socket. The only place I ever found one was at a Checker Auto Parts store. Note that a 1 3/8" socket might also fit this nut, although it�ll probably be a tight fit since it�ll be 0.003" too small.
10) Congrats on removing the nut. All that holds the axle in place in the spindle now are splines. Use a hammer to hit on the end of the axle to loosen it from the splines in the hub assembly. Just loosen it now -- it won�t come all the way out. Tip: The stock ADD/permanent flange basically uses a semi-floater design, so the outer CV is absolutely necessary to be in place to hold the hub/spindle against the wheel bearings. Do not drive without the outer CV properly bolted into place to hold everything together!
11) Jump down to step number 16.
For Stock ADD/permanent hub flanges:
7) Using a flathead screwdriver, work the large black dust cap off the end of the hub. This is best done by tapping on the end of the screwdriver as you work around the cap to pry it off.
8) Using a pliers, bend the safety cotter pin straight. Pull out the cotter pin and the star-shaped lock cap.
9) In order to remove the hub nut, you�ll need a friend to sit inside and stand on the brakes. The hub nut torque is spec'ed to 174 ft-lbs at the factory, which is a LOT. This nut requires a 35mm socket and a hefty torque bar or impact wrench for removal. The thread direction is "normal", so you loosen it counter-clockwise. Left and right axles are identical. Tip: A few years ago I had a very hard time finding a true 35mm socket. The only place I ever found one was at a Checker Auto Parts store. Note that a 1 3/8" socket might also fit this nut, although it�ll probably be a tight fit since it�ll be 0.003" too small.
10) Congrats on removing the nut. All that holds the axle in place in the spindle now are splines. Use a hammer to hit on the end of the axle to loosen it from the splines in the hub assembly. Just loosen it now -- it won�t come all the way out. Tip: The stock ADD/permanent flange basically uses a semi-floater design, so the outer CV is absolutely necessary to be in place to hold the hub/spindle against the wheel bearings. Do not drive without the outer CV properly bolted into place to hold everything together!
11) Jump down to step number 16.
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