I am in need of a brake system "overhaul".

-I will need new pads, is one type actually better, I plan on the ones that are $20 and have free replacement.

-I can get stock rotors for about $50 for the pair. Are ther any others that improve braking that are worth the cost, I'm poor.

-The cheapest drums I have found are $55 each, mine are old and rusty so I perfer new over machining, but where can thay be had cheaper?

-I will be replacing the rear shoes, are there any other parts in the rear that are a good idea to replece, again with the poor thing.

-My parking brake hardly works, could this just be because my rear shoes are worn down, or something else? It used to work good.

-My pedal preassure is odd. When you press it the first time it goes down far, then pump it again and it has plenty of resistance. Is this a sign of needing new pads/shoes, or could something else be wrong? My master cylinder is less than 2 years old.

-Are there any other general tips/ideas I should know? Thanks a ton!

Lamm

 

Lets see here.

The prices you qouted are pretty good but the only thing I would pay a little more for is pads. Normally, I wouldn't recommend cheaper parts but since you have a 5 speed your rotors and pads will probably last longer than if you had an auto.

As for buying new drums, I would have them turned. Even though they look rusty, unless there is something wrong with them, you are just throwing away money buying new ones.

As for the E-brake, this is likely caused by the worn brakes in the back. Once you install your new rear brakes, make sure and adjust them. Check the cable also to make sure it hasn't been stretched.

Finally, the pedal feel. What you described sounds like air in the lines. Have you checked your brake fluid lately? Do you have leaks in the wheel cylinders or calipers?

If you are going through all this I recommend a couple more things. First make sure you flush the brake fluid. Second, look closely at the wheel cylinders and calipers for leaks. If any are bad, rebuild or replace them. Finally, since you have the tires off, check out the suspension, steering, and CVs. Make sure everything looks kosher.

Good luck!

 

Thanks,

Air may be in the lines, I flushed the fluid about 6 months ago but thats a while I guess.

I don't think I'm leaking anywhere, I drew a line on the master so I could check for fluid loss a while back, still at the top.

I have had the front wheels off twice last week to get the caliper blots with PB and such. Everything looks good, except all the rust...

I have never tore into the back, a buddy of mine who is in an AutoShop class at Stark State CC is gonna help me too.

Lamm

 

what could be causing one side of a brake to wear faster than the other?
my driver's side front break is sqeeling and my friend and i took a look at it today and the back pad looks to have worn down MUCH faster than the outer pad.

as for you ebrake problem, i adjusted mine 2 days ago. all you have to do is just coast down a hill backwards and pull the ebrake on and off and it will tighten it. it worked great for me, but im going to get my drums checked as well when i get an alignment just to make sure.

 

That caliper is bad. $43 with a $85 core charge at Napa. I just did mine.

 

but does anybody know what would cause the back one to wear faster than the front?

 

One or both of the pistons on one side of the caliper sticking would cause that.

 

thats what i was thinking, could they just be dead? how would i go about getting them unstuck? or testing to see if they work at all?

 

You can rebuild the caliper yourself. My Haynes tells you how to do it. I've never done it. I find it much easier to just buy a reman and put it on there. Those are your only options.

 

cool, i'll see what my factory service manual says about it.

 

coasting backwards and pullin the e-brake actually works for tightening the cable? and its not bad on anything either???

wow. did not know that. anyone else heard of it?

-David

 

i never said it was bad on anything. im not sure about that. it worked for both me and my roommate (94 toy pickup) i haven't had any problems with it.

 

The reverse trick did not work for me. Believe me I tried. I finally had to get underneath, take out the rubber piece from behind the plate and adjust manually using the a screwdriver. I spun the star wheel until my e-brake was about 6-8 clicks. Go figure!

 

how many times did you do it? i had to do it like 20 times if not more. probably would have been easier to get under and tighten it, but its been cold and wet out.