Shakes and squeals
#1
Shakes and squeals
Hey folks-
long time lurker, first time poster. I’ve tried finding threads to address my experiences, but not having luck.
I drive an ‘02 4R 3.4L RWD with 247k. it has over sized tires in a 4” lift. I just acquired it a week ago with very little maintenance history from previous owner. That person had it four years and did religious oil changes and simple maintenance- plugs, wires, cap, etc. however, my issues are seemingly mechanical.
there are no leaks, but the usual sludge buildup around the head gaskets. Not even a drop in my driveway. The oil is clean and the tranny fluid is too. No strawberry shake.
When cold, I get belt squeals until it warms up, and I stop and restart the engine. The other issue I am noticing is that there is a chirp that happens when I first put it in drive and lasts until the engine is warm. This chirp seems to sync with the speed of the vehicle. Then, there is a shake at idle, while in D at a stop light, then disappears when I step on accelerator, yet returns between 30-45 mph.
When it’s warm, no squeals, but the shaking concerns me- there’s a noticeable shift going back and forth between D & R. This doesn’t happen when first going into drive. Only going from D to R and back again.
appreciate you folks and any suggestions you have to offer!
long time lurker, first time poster. I’ve tried finding threads to address my experiences, but not having luck.
I drive an ‘02 4R 3.4L RWD with 247k. it has over sized tires in a 4” lift. I just acquired it a week ago with very little maintenance history from previous owner. That person had it four years and did religious oil changes and simple maintenance- plugs, wires, cap, etc. however, my issues are seemingly mechanical.
there are no leaks, but the usual sludge buildup around the head gaskets. Not even a drop in my driveway. The oil is clean and the tranny fluid is too. No strawberry shake.
When cold, I get belt squeals until it warms up, and I stop and restart the engine. The other issue I am noticing is that there is a chirp that happens when I first put it in drive and lasts until the engine is warm. This chirp seems to sync with the speed of the vehicle. Then, there is a shake at idle, while in D at a stop light, then disappears when I step on accelerator, yet returns between 30-45 mph.
When it’s warm, no squeals, but the shaking concerns me- there’s a noticeable shift going back and forth between D & R. This doesn’t happen when first going into drive. Only going from D to R and back again.
appreciate you folks and any suggestions you have to offer!
#2
Definitely find out which belt is loose while it's cold. Could well be the bearing in an idler pulley, too. They're known to go bad. Easy to find. Pull the belt off, and spin the idler by hand. Rough feeling is a dead give away of a bad bearing. Also, if the pulley feels loose, or wobbly, in it's mount, it's bad, but it's usually a rough, or grinding feel, when you're turning it. If whatever it drive's pulley feels like that, too, it's bad. The AC compressor, PS pump, Alternator, whatever. Make sure there's no grinding feel, or the pulley doesn't make the shaft move in any way but round and round...
The idler pulleys are readily available, and so are the bearings, if you want to press the bearing out and then back in again. It's not hard to remove the pulley from the mount, or replace it's bearing. A big socket, that just fits around the bearing's outer race, and down through the pulley's center hole, and 2 short pieces of 4X4, to set the pulley on, just far enough apart the bearing can slide out between them. Give the socket a few decent taps with a hammer, and it'll drive the bearing out. Turn it over, set the bearing in place, and put a piece of wood on it, and tap it in, and you're golden. Of course, having a hydraulic press pakes life MUCH easier, but it can be done without.
I've replaced the pulleys on my 87s several times. After the first time, when I had spare pulleys available, I'd just replace the whole pulley, then replace the bearing in the bad one I just took off. That way, I always have a spare pulley to slap in, fast and easy.
If they noise has been going on a while, the involved belt is probably bad now too. Check any belt you take off carefully for ANY damage. Replace if damaged at all.
Squealing when cold, then quieting down s it warms is usually...usually I say...a bad idler pulley bearing. Check yours carefully!
Have fun!
Pat☺
The idler pulleys are readily available, and so are the bearings, if you want to press the bearing out and then back in again. It's not hard to remove the pulley from the mount, or replace it's bearing. A big socket, that just fits around the bearing's outer race, and down through the pulley's center hole, and 2 short pieces of 4X4, to set the pulley on, just far enough apart the bearing can slide out between them. Give the socket a few decent taps with a hammer, and it'll drive the bearing out. Turn it over, set the bearing in place, and put a piece of wood on it, and tap it in, and you're golden. Of course, having a hydraulic press pakes life MUCH easier, but it can be done without.
I've replaced the pulleys on my 87s several times. After the first time, when I had spare pulleys available, I'd just replace the whole pulley, then replace the bearing in the bad one I just took off. That way, I always have a spare pulley to slap in, fast and easy.
If they noise has been going on a while, the involved belt is probably bad now too. Check any belt you take off carefully for ANY damage. Replace if damaged at all.
Squealing when cold, then quieting down s it warms is usually...usually I say...a bad idler pulley bearing. Check yours carefully!
Have fun!
Pat☺
#3
Also, your sludge buildup is probably around the valve cover gaskets, not head gaskets. ? And yeah, totally normal. I replaced mine at 190,000 miles. 100,000 miles later, there's some sludge building up again. At 290,000 miles, I still leave no oil drips in driveways.
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