95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

seat bolt ripped out

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Old Oct 10, 2008 | 02:33 PM
  #21  
312necro213's Avatar
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From: Monterey, California
happened to me to, did the same thing with washers cost me like 10$ total or something, and a lot more piece of mind because i did it to all the others too after i saw that. haha 4wheeling plus cheap seat mounts don't work well together.
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Old Jun 4, 2009 | 06:41 PM
  #22  
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From: Colorado Springs
Same here, is there a recall from Toyota? I have a '96 4Runner Limited. Same left bolt on driver seat.
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Old Jun 4, 2009 | 06:47 PM
  #23  
Elton's Avatar
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From: Siletz,Oregon
the mounting point in the front is very weak
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Old Jun 4, 2009 | 06:59 PM
  #24  
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From: San Jose ,Ca
WoW!! I cant believe this many people have had this problem.

I have never seen this happen to any of the trucks ive had or sold.
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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 11:58 AM
  #25  
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I attempted to fix this problem with mine several months ago, and the washers weren't big enough, they just made the hole a little larger. I tried using some wing-type washers that are spring-loaded, and they didn't last much longer.

Can anyone that has had success fixing this shed some light on how you fixed this more permanently?

If the washers are big enough to hold the bolt from ripping through the bottom side, how do you even get them through the hole?

TIA
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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 01:08 PM
  #26  
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First, I used a screwdriver and a hammer to put a reference point on the floor pan; hold the screwdriver as vertical as you can through the torn out bolt hole and whack a nice dent into the floor. Underneath the truck, you'll see the dent and the spot weld marks where that raised panel holds the blind nut that tore out.

I used a hole saw and bored a hole into raised front nut mounting rail. Put a big ass washer and a nylock nut in there, fed the bolt through and tightened. Sealed it up with some silicone and a simpler metal plug easily found at Ace. Only downside is you have to remove the plug to get the seat out, but after doing that 8 months after the initial repair, I found my patch was weather tight.
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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 01:33 PM
  #27  
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From: Orlando, FL
Seen this happen many times on here - same fix everytime.

The best thing to do, which I think somebody brought up on here, is to cut all that old metal out and weld a new piece in.
Another option would be to just get a piece of thick sheet metal that was 3-4x larger than the mounting hole and use that as a "washer."

Either way, hope that holds up for ya - may consider going around and beefing up the other bolts on your seats too.

Fink
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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 02:06 PM
  #28  
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From: Siletz,Oregon
my fix has been working just fine
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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 06:21 PM
  #29  
aowRS's Avatar
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From: Ellicott City, MD
Originally Posted by 98SR54RUNNER
If the washers are big enough to hold the bolt from ripping through the bottom side, how do you even get them through the hole?
Your repair bolt needs to go through the bottom pan of the truck as well...


Andreas
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 09:33 AM
  #30  
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From: Charleston, SC
Originally Posted by Midget96
First, I used a screwdriver and a hammer to put a reference point on the floor pan; hold the screwdriver as vertical as you can through the torn out bolt hole and whack a nice dent into the floor. Underneath the truck, you'll see the dent and the spot weld marks where that raised panel holds the blind nut that tore out.

I used a hole saw and bored a hole into raised front nut mounting rail. Put a big ass washer and a nylock nut in there, fed the bolt through and tightened. Sealed it up with some silicone and a simpler metal plug easily found at Ace. Only downside is you have to remove the plug to get the seat out, but after doing that 8 months after the initial repair, I found my patch was weather tight.
Thank you for the details!
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Old Mar 3, 2010 | 04:11 PM
  #31  
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From: Mission Viejo, CA
when this happened to me, I ziptied it with like 5 huge ones but yeah it's really not a good idea.

Cut and a weld a new piece in, you want it to hold if you get in a crash. I will have to get on this when I have welder access. better safe than sorry

Last edited by ChildrenOfBodom; Mar 3, 2010 at 04:12 PM.
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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 08:05 PM
  #32  
pendrag's Avatar
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From: Mississippi
Good grief - has anyone told Toyota about this one? A crash puts a heck of a lot more stress on the attachment point than stopping at a light.
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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 11:26 PM
  #33  
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From: San Gabriel Valley
what the (whozus)! guess i have to be gentle with my belt now

Last edited by aviator; Mar 8, 2010 at 09:24 PM.
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 10:36 AM
  #34  
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From: Salt Lake City, UT
Just had this happen to me too... I guess after almost 201,000 miles of abuse it just gave up. Strange though; On my rig it was the right side that gave way. That's while sitting in the seat facing forward.
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 05:53 PM
  #35  
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From: Upsate SC
Originally Posted by Farmerunner
Elton,

I had the same thing happen to me. My 99 had around 200 000 miles on it at the time. As I recall, it wasn't even a rusting issue, the bolt (and it was the on on the left), just ripped out of the floor. I am a big guy though, at 220 lbs, that might have had something to do with it!

What I did was drill a hole right through the floor and attached the seat with a carriage bolt, putting a large washer on the bottom side.

It has been like that for well over a year and I don't notice any down side to this. It should be stronger then stock, from what I can see. It is really a quick and easy fix. If you want pictures, I can send them.

Adam

Ditto mine did the same about 3 months ago. At least it cured the god awful squeaking my seat was having on rough roads. I thought it was actually in the seat back frame not the mounting holes. Oddly enough I didn't discover mine was broken until I was taking the seats out to steam clean the carpets.
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Old Dec 2, 2023 | 08:09 AM
  #36  
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From: North Carolina
This just happened to me on my '99 Limited. Anyone who has done the floorboard fix remember how long the new bolt needs to be?
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