Hey guys, I finally figured out my delimma on my vibration issues.

After looking hard, I found a pretty good size dent on my shaft which means I'll need to replace it

I'd like to give this a shot and try it myself but I would like some yotatech expertise in this area as this is VERY new to me

Anytime in the weekend. I'll provide all the grub (yup everything), just show up and lets get crackin!

Ofcourse I'd have to order the shaft so it'll take some time but when I do get it I'd like to something up!

Now the question:

Can someone help me out here? Or is it better to give it to the stealers to do it? I'd like some direction here as I'm taking this in a positive perspective by making this my once in a lifetime opportunity to fix this on my own The only way to learn is by tryin.

So, whatcha all think?

I can go to someone place (or bay or yard?) or we can do it at my place provided my roomies don't mind. I can drive as far south as San Diego I suppose (but I'll be restricted to driving slow so I'd prefer not too), or far north as San Fernando area. Greater Los Angeles/Orange County Area. I really don't have any tools though (just hand tools.) So any help is greatly recommended.

Thanks so very much! You guys are the best!

Lance

EDIT: Ouch, driveshafts aren't that cheap ehe The list price was 555.35!!! Yikes. Good news is they have it locally (torrance, ca) so it'll only take 1 day to get.

 

I see no real reason to replace if with a stocker.

When I toasted mine, I took it to be a sign that I should get one with a thicker wall and a smaller outer diameter.

For everyone else, it is pretty easy to just order one with Toy flanges on each end, not sure if the new trucks have that.

Should be 8 bolts standing in your way.

 

You might want to look into getting a custom tougher, driveshaft made. I'd bet a custom drive shaft is about the same price or cheaper than from the dealer. It's probably pretty easy to change a drive shaft too, soak all the bolts in penetrating oil and make sure you have a breaker bar.

Adrian (flygestein) knows more about custom drive shafts. Edit: looks like he beat me to it.

 

Before you attempt to replace your shaft take it to the dealer and play stupid well not to stupid but enough, the truck is meant to go offroad I did see commercials with it on Mt Everst you could hit a rock up their, when the dealer scratched my rims they offered to replace them so maybe they would replace your drive shaft, even if you had to pay labor which could possibly cost less then 555

Just look into all your options, never want to find out the service writer would do it for you

 

I thought about a custom driveshaft but didn't know where to even start looking.

Someone want to give me a direction on who to call?

I took a look and it looks like 4 bolts on each side.

Flygtenstein:

Btw, what do you mean about getting Toyota flanges on each side? (noob question!)

Also, thanks for the help too! (would have never thought about looking at the shaft.

Lance

 

How about Jesse at high angle drivelines: http://www.highangledriveline.com/

That's one of the most famous, anyway.

 

Ouch! $500!!
Hope this won't delay your lift/tires too much.
Do you remember taking any hard hits down there?
When Marc and I headed home we decided to take the Oriflamme canyon trail, opposite direction than when you ran it with us in Feb. We had to turn around because the road was closed, and on the way back I took a really hard hit. Turns out I put another hole in my front skidplate, this one directly under the front diff right on a bolt. I think I got Steves prototype skid just in time!

 

For $550 you could fly me out, give me beer and have me put a new shaft in.

I got mine from South Bay Driveline. I will have to check my notes, but I am pretty sure that I dealt with a guy named Steve who was helpful, patient and got the right thing out.

As far as knowing what was wrong, I spent 1200 miles knowing what was wrong with mine, just trying to be a smart alleck in the last post.

Jess at High Angle gets rave reviews.

Tom Woods makes a good shaft, plus you can get a sticker that says my shaft's a woody. Still wish I would have gone that route.

You could just have it retubed instead of going all the way new.

What I meant on the flanges is that Toy cases, or at least mine and all others I have seen, have flanges rather than yokes or slip joints at the pinion and the t-case. They have a specific bolt pattern. Not sure what is on yours, could be new, could be the same as the rest, just no certainty on it at this point.

The numbers .083 and .095 stick in my head for wall thickness. Anything thicker becomes hard to balance unless it is a fatty shaft.

South Bay uses non-Toyota ujoints for what thats worth.

You should be able to get a new shaft with a thicker wall, smaller diameter and "custom" length for less than 3 bills.

 

Thanks for all the help guys.

I'll be calling up those places tomorrow and get a quick quote on how much it'll be so I can get a fix on it asap

Never did think that I'd have a aftermarket driveshaft but I guess it comes with the territory!

Quick question though, will I need to get new flanges or do they include that as well? Also I'm assuming that I should use new bolts/nuts right? anything else? Obviously I'm definitely new to this so I'll be asking these q's at the stores too..

Thanks again!

 

Good advice. Thats why YT is "da bomb".



Doug M.

 

trying to edumicate myself on this subject...

Does a new shaft come already balanced or does it need to be balanced on the truck?

 

This is a super easy thing, you shouldn't sweat it at all. There are four nuts to remove on the t-case side and 4 on the axle side. On older trucks the bolts on the t-case flange are splined and pressed in so you shouldn't take those out (they cannot be bought separately so don't bang them out as there is no reason to). If you absolutely possitively can't get that side out, you can bang the bolts out and that normally frees the shaft, just make sure to remember to thread the nut onto the bolts so you are not hitting the bolt and boggering the threads. The bolts on the pinion flange just pop right out. Those is no need to replace any of these nuts or bolts, there is no problem reusing them.

What you are looking to do is not really a custom shaft but a "re-tube." They will use your old driveshaft joints and the splines and cut out the tube and replace it. Jesse at highangle re-tubed my rear shaft as well as turning my front shaft into a long slip (for the SAS). Any driveline shop around should be able to re-tube your rear shaft and it shouldn't cost that much money. Stock shafts are normally paper thin so a heavier material for the re-tube is probably a good idea.

Dave

 

A new shaft should come balanced. There are special machines to balance driveshafts and they cannot be balanced (to my knowledge) on the truck...

 

100 bucks to re-tube and balance. That's what I paid in Fresno.

 

Here is some good info on drive shafts. http://4crawler.cruiserpages.com/4x4...line-101.shtml Watch the phasing of the u-joints.

Roger also has some contacts at the bottom for ordering new shafts.

 

mt_goat:

Thanks for the great link! That will definitely come in great use

 

Wow, my head is spinning. Roger is a smart guy.

 

Wow that is so much information it's insane!

 

If you plan to get more travel out of the rear, you might want to get skinner tube with stronger wall. It will eliminate the dhaft from hitting the gas tank. Given that I'm assuming that it's in the same place....maybe they moved it for the 4th gen......

 

Yep, Roger is the man. I think he is an electrical engineer.