Rear PP springs not sitting right.
#1
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Rear PP springs not sitting right.
I noticed that my 4Runner is not sitting level in the back. When I changed the oil yesterday, I noticed that the right rear spring is not sitting on its seat correctly. The end of the spring is not in its "L" seat. This is causing the right side to sit higher than the left side. Just in the rear, the front is level.
All I need to do is rotate the spring so it is sitting correctly, but what do I do? I didn't install the springs, so I am thinking that I just lift up the rear end so there is no weight on the suspension, and rotate it. Is that correct?
All I need to do is rotate the spring so it is sitting correctly, but what do I do? I didn't install the springs, so I am thinking that I just lift up the rear end so there is no weight on the suspension, and rotate it. Is that correct?
Last edited by SLC Punk; 04-01-2004 at 01:23 PM.
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Yep, just jack up the backend from the frame (receiver hitch, if you have one) until most of the weight of off of the axle, then it should be easy enough to get it repositioned. If it is really stubborn, then you may have to disconnect the shock and sway bar endlink on that side to get a little more droop.
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Thanks Jayson.
I found a hi-lift jack at my parents house that my dad had for our 1978 F-250 to use when we had the camper on it. I am going to put that under the hitch and lift it from there.
I found a hi-lift jack at my parents house that my dad had for our 1978 F-250 to use when we had the camper on it. I am going to put that under the hitch and lift it from there.
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Originally Posted by Bob_98SR5
trav,
i think i have the same problem. gonna check later today. thanks for the fix, jayson!
bob
i think i have the same problem. gonna check later today. thanks for the fix, jayson!
bob
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I had trouble with my PP rear coils as well. My right rear coil would always back out of the L-Seat. It also rattled a lot and I noticed that neither coil was shaped quite right to fit in the bottom coil "cup".
I replaced mine with Downeys and just noticed last week that the right rear coil has moved out of the L - Seat a bit.
Anyone ever use Tie Wraps or anything like that on the bottom to try to hold the rear coils in place?????
I replaced mine with Downeys and just noticed last week that the right rear coil has moved out of the L - Seat a bit.
Anyone ever use Tie Wraps or anything like that on the bottom to try to hold the rear coils in place?????
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#8
I've NEVER had a problem with any of the coils that I have doing that. Are you guys using the upper spring isolators? Or do you have metal-metal contact on the top spring perches?
One thing you can try is to get some heavy-duty PVC shower pan liner from Lowe's or Home Depot. It is grey or black and in the plumbing section. It's really thick material and sold by the linear foot. Anyway, get some of that and make some "donuts", two per side. Stack two donuts together and put them on top of the springs. This will make a nice cushion and stop the metal-metal contact which will probably help with your springs from moving around back there.
Peace.
G
One thing you can try is to get some heavy-duty PVC shower pan liner from Lowe's or Home Depot. It is grey or black and in the plumbing section. It's really thick material and sold by the linear foot. Anyway, get some of that and make some "donuts", two per side. Stack two donuts together and put them on top of the springs. This will make a nice cushion and stop the metal-metal contact which will probably help with your springs from moving around back there.
Peace.
G
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Originally Posted by SLC Punk
Thanks Jayson.
I found a hi-lift jack at my parents house that my dad had for our 1978 F-250 to use when we had the camper on it. I am going to put that under the hitch and lift it from there.
I found a hi-lift jack at my parents house that my dad had for our 1978 F-250 to use when we had the camper on it. I am going to put that under the hitch and lift it from there.
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Originally Posted by Dr. Zhivago
One thing you can try is to get some heavy-duty PVC shower pan liner from Lowe's or Home Depot. It is grey or black and in the plumbing section. It's really thick material and sold by the linear foot. Anyway, get some of that and make some "donuts", two per side. Stack two donuts together and put them on top of the springs. This will make a nice cushion and stop the metal-metal contact which will probably help with your springs from moving around back there.
Peace.
G
Peace.
G
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Originally Posted by cubuff4runner
Watch out using a hi-lift on the hitch. Hi-lifts aren't stable side-to side, once you get your tires off the ground it will probably shift to one side and fall back to the ground.
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Originally Posted by Dr. Zhivago
I've NEVER had a problem with any of the coils that I have doing that. Are you guys using the upper spring isolators? Or do you have metal-metal contact on the top spring perches?
One thing you can try is to get some heavy-duty PVC shower pan liner from Lowe's or Home Depot. It is grey or black and in the plumbing section. It's really thick material and sold by the linear foot. Anyway, get some of that and make some "donuts", two per side. Stack two donuts together and put them on top of the springs. This will make a nice cushion and stop the metal-metal contact which will probably help with your springs from moving around back there.
Peace.
G
One thing you can try is to get some heavy-duty PVC shower pan liner from Lowe's or Home Depot. It is grey or black and in the plumbing section. It's really thick material and sold by the linear foot. Anyway, get some of that and make some "donuts", two per side. Stack two donuts together and put them on top of the springs. This will make a nice cushion and stop the metal-metal contact which will probably help with your springs from moving around back there.
Peace.
G
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I went to the dealer and they gave me the bumpstops for free because there was a recall on the rear stock suspension.
I usually jack each side up with the highlift and the put a jackstand on the frame in front of the wheel, doesn't have to be as high there.
I usually jack each side up with the highlift and the put a jackstand on the frame in front of the wheel, doesn't have to be as high there.
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Originally Posted by cubuff4runner
I went to the dealer and they gave me the bumpstops for free because there was a recall on the rear stock suspension.
I usually jack each side up with the highlift and the put a jackstand on the frame in front of the wheel, doesn't have to be as high there.
I usually jack each side up with the highlift and the put a jackstand on the frame in front of the wheel, doesn't have to be as high there.
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Has anyone had a problem with the FRONT PP springs not sitting level? I am off .25" from side to side. I always understood that H&R's QC was very good whereas companies like Eibach just spit them out without testing spring rate lbs/sq.in.
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The problem is that H&R / PP does not differentiate between driver's and passenger sides. The coils for both front sides are the same length.
So, the driver's side front should be lower with a full to 1/2 tank of gas.
So, the driver's side front should be lower with a full to 1/2 tank of gas.
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Originally Posted by ALBPM
The problem is that H&R / PP does not differentiate between driver's and passenger sides. The coils for both front sides are the same length.
So, the driver's side front should be lower with a full to 1/2 tank of gas.
So, the driver's side front should be lower with a full to 1/2 tank of gas.
The FRONT left side of the vehicle would rest lower with a full tank of gas ... instead of the rear left side? I don't get it.
#20
Peter, an easy way (sort of) to fix the height differential would be to install an additional upper spring isolator in the driver's side strut assembly. That would give you about .25-.375" more height. I'd use one a Polyurethane one from either Daystar or Energy Suspension and put it between the stock rubber isolator and the upper spring perch. You'll have to pull the assembly off the truck, compress the spring and remove the upper spring perch to install it, which is why I said it was "sort of" an easy fix. Still, if you lived near me, we could do it in about 30-40 minutes tops.
At least it's cheap. The Poly isolators are like, $18/pair or so.
Hope this helps.
G
At least it's cheap. The Poly isolators are like, $18/pair or so.
Hope this helps.
G