95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

Rear O2 sensor trick?

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Old Apr 21, 2020 | 02:17 PM
  #81  
leaver_red_jr's Avatar
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From: sf bay area
Originally Posted by Airwalker16
hey leaver red,
just had my damn CEL turn on once again and I don't think she's turning back off. So I'm ready to bite the bullet and do this damn thing. But to make the shipping worth it from Digikey, was going to order the 500k ohm resistor and additional 20uf capacitor but upon searching, I'm really having trouble finding them, and am getting very limited results and in minimum orders of 100. I just wanna be sure they're AEC-200 compliant like you mentioned, so was curious if you'd be willing to post the part #s to enter into digi key for these extras so if the first combination of 200k ohm res and 10uf capacitor doesn't fly, I can fiddle with the other 2 combos you suggested? Would you maybe get back to me here if you get a second. I'd really appreciate it. Thanks a million.
_Airwalk.
Sorry for the late reply.

510k resistor: BC3824CT-ND
200k resistor: BC3256CT-ND
10uF cap: 490-12869-ND
10uF cap (dont remember why I ordered these too): 445-174239-1-ND
500k resistor: 500KAACT-ND
22uF cap: 490-12870-ND

That is what I ordered (didn't use all of it). I just checked, and all of this stuff is currently in stock.




22uF cap: 490-12870-ND
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Old Apr 21, 2020 | 02:29 PM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by leaver_red_jr
Sorry for the late reply.

510k resistor: BC3824CT-ND
200k resistor: BC3256CT-ND
10uF cap: 490-12869-ND
10uF cap (dont remember why I ordered these too): 445-174239-1-ND
500k resistor: 500KAACT-ND
22uF cap: 490-12870-ND

That is what I ordered (didn't use all of it). I just checked, and $ of this stuff is currently in stock.




22uF cap: 490-12870-ND
well it's not a problem! I just appreciate the response! But now I'm just getting confused with all these extra parts you're telling me to order. Is there no 20uf caps? I really just wanna get this over with and would especially like to not have to pull things back out and redo them. I still don't even know how I'm gonna get to the wires. Pulling out the seat a few weeks ago didn't allow me to get under the carpet much. So I need to figure out how to do it.

Last edited by Airwalker16; Apr 21, 2020 at 02:48 PM.
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Old Apr 21, 2020 | 02:32 PM
  #83  
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So should I really order the 510k AND 500k? I'm just Confused as to what the heck kind of combinations I'm going to have to use to get this light to turn off.
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Old Apr 21, 2020 | 05:32 PM
  #84  
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No, I wouldn't bother with both the 500 and 510. I just looked at my receipt and copied what I had ordered. I ended up not using a bunch of that stuff. If you search at the digikey site, you can use the filters to narrow down what you're looking for. Just specify the different parameters (for example, capacitors: capacitance, application, mounting type, etc.)
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Old Apr 21, 2020 | 05:53 PM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by leaver_red_jr
No, I wouldn't bother with both the 500 and 510. I just looked at my receipt and copied what I had ordered. I ended up not using a bunch of that stuff. If you search at the digikey site, you can use the filters to narrow down what you're looking for. Just specify the different parameters (for example, capacitors: capacitance, application, mounting type, etc.)
ya I used the filter but it was just still bringing up hundreds of options so ya... What are you suggesting I actually order then?
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Old Apr 22, 2020 | 01:24 AM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by leaver_red_jr
No, I wouldn't bother with both the 500 and 510. I just looked at my receipt and copied what I had ordered. I ended up not using a bunch of that stuff. If you search at the digikey site, you can use the filters to narrow down what you're looking for. Just specify the different parameters (for example, capacitors: capacitance, application, mounting type, etc.)
so you say you don't know why you ordered 2 models of the 10uF Capacitors? Cause after looking at the specifications, they're identical on every single parameter they have listed EXCEPT the spacing between leads being half, the height just a bit shorter, but most importantly, 25V and 50V with only a 10% tolerance. I'd assume just get the 50V right?
But as I said, the search on that website is pretty daunting to me and the 22uF Capacitor you gave the part# for is only 25V and has a 20% tolerance.
is this alright or do you think I should match them in that aspect and would you happen to have the part# for a 50V 22uF Capacitor?

Last edited by Airwalker16; Apr 22, 2020 at 01:40 AM.
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Old Apr 22, 2020 | 02:08 AM
  #87  
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From: sf bay area
Originally Posted by Airwalker16
so you say you don't know why you ordered 2 models of the 10uF Capacitors? Cause after looking at the specifications, they're identical on every single parameter they have listed EXCEPT the spacing between leads being half, the height just a bit shorter, but most importantly, 25V and 50V with only a 10% tolerance. I'd assume just get the 50V right?
But as I said, the search on that website is pretty daunting to me and the 22uF Capacitor you gave the part# for is only 25V and has a 20% tolerance.
is this alright or do you think I should match them in that aspect and would you happen to have the part# for a 50V 22uF Capacitor?
Since we're only dealing with about 1V here, 25V or 50V doesn't matter. I probably orderd both models because a) they were cheap b) one might fit where I wanted it better than the other.

If I were you I'd just order a few 10uF caps, 22uF if you want (don't need 50V) and an assortment of resistors (maybe 100k, 200k, 300k, 400k, 500k) to have on hand. I would start by trying the 10uF/200k combo and see what happens.
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Old Apr 22, 2020 | 02:24 AM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by leaver_red_jr
Since we're only dealing with about 1V here, 25V or 50V doesn't matter. I probably orderd both models because a) they were cheap b) one might fit where I wanted it better than the other.

If I were you I'd just order a few 10uF caps, 22uF if you want (don't need 50V) and an assortment of resistors (maybe 100k, 200k, 300k, 400k, 500k) to have on hand. I would start by trying the 10uF/200k combo and see what happens.
okay, and if I run into any problems, switch to the 22uF and go up the 100-500k resistors all over again?
I'll do my damnedest to find those resistors but might be coming back here for some part #s. :/
edit:
I've found most of them. 300k is a bit difficult as I can't do d one with the aec-q200 rating.

is 1/4w (0.25w) just what you had picked for no real reason or is there any reason they can't be 1,2, or 3watt?

Last edited by Airwalker16; Apr 22, 2020 at 02:33 AM.
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Old Apr 22, 2020 | 02:41 AM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by leaver_red_jr
Since we're only dealing with about 1V here, 25V or 50V doesn't matter. I probably orderd both models because a) they were cheap b) one might fit where I wanted it better than the other.

If I were you I'd just order a few 10uF caps, 22uF if you want (don't need 50V) and an assortment of resistors (maybe 100k, 200k, 300k, 400k, 500k) to have on hand. I would start by trying the 10uF/200k combo and see what happens.
man, I really can't stand searching for stuff on Digikey. If you don't have a part#, it's a LOT more difficult to find stuff. I'm sure if I knew what I was doing, there elaborate advanced search engine would come in very useful, no doubt. But I don't, so here we are...
I promise this is the last time I'll bug you about part #s and get them ordered if you could just reference the 100k, 300k .& 400k ohm resistors with that AEC-Q200 feature..
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Old May 5, 2020 | 04:40 AM
  #90  
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I really hate bugging you, man...

Originally Posted by leaver_red_jr
Since we're only dealing with about 1V here, 25V or 50V doesn't matter. I probably orderd both models because a) they were cheap b) one might fit where I wanted it better than the other.

If I were you I'd just order a few 10uF caps, 22uF if you want (don't need 50V) and an assortment of resistors (maybe 100k, 200k, 300k, 400k, 500k) to have on hand. I would start by trying the 10uF/200k combo and see what happens.
I don't wanna bug you and try to give you ample time to reply, but does what watt I get even matter and what's the difference? Also, I cannot find the parts for a few of the last things I need.. could you help when you get a second? Thank you so so so much for all of this, my dude @leaver_red_jr

Last edited by Airwalker16; May 5, 2020 at 04:42 AM.
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Old May 22, 2020 | 08:48 AM
  #91  
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I guess i'm on my own

My feeble mind doesn't understand the differences in watt values so where what was linked to me were all 1/4watt, I guess that's what I'll go with .
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Old Aug 14, 2020 | 06:10 AM
  #92  
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We have finally done it!

Originally Posted by leaver_red_jr
Since we're only dealing with about 1V here, 25V or 50V doesn't matter. I probably orderd both models because a) they were cheap b) one might fit where I wanted it better than the other.

If I were you I'd just order a few 10uF caps, 22uF if you want (don't need 50V) and an assortment of resistors (maybe 100k, 200k, 300k, 400k, 500k) to have on hand. I would start by trying the 10uF/200k combo and see what happens.
So I did it! I used wagos down by the connector under the carpet so I could remove and replace the various values of caps and resistors. But hopefully this 200kohm res and 10uf cap is the magic combination right off the bat and I can solder them in permanently and be done. BUT NOW I also have a P0715 code for input shaft VSS circuit code so I'm not so sure how I'm gonna clear that. Does it usually mean you need a new sensor? It's on the transmission but I'm not sure if it's just a loose or cracked wire because the car runs fine and everything I've read usually sums up the car acting super weird when the sensor actually goes bad.

Any ideas?
also +1 for Wagos. If you've never used them, I highly reccomend you do.
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Old Feb 19, 2021 | 02:06 PM
  #93  
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Th

Originally Posted by DailyDrive
It takes at least 2 trips to throw that code. That's 1. If you have no cat, the method can't work, period. No chemical reaction is happening where the cat would be and thus the sensor will not put out a sine wave signal that the ECU is specifically looking for.
The chemical reaction is irevalent. The rear O2 sensors will read the exact same as the front. By putting a resistor your mirroring the front o2 sensors with a different value on the rear but in synch. It's perfect.
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Old Feb 21, 2023 | 10:29 AM
  #94  
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From: San Diego
Originally Posted by courtgordon
The URD was never an option for over $100 ide rather deal with my check engine light. have you tried the other methods other than the one you posted and had failures?? I ended up basically doing something similar to the info. on the site Millball posted but I used the diagram off of this site: http://www.sr20-forum.com/general-ma...o2-sensor.html
However I followed the actual diagram on that page and not the posters method shown in the pictures. I reset the ECU so I will let you know if the CEL stays off for good
Hey Court,

I have the dreaded P0420 code and it is not the best time for me to be replacing cats..... Can you send me a wiring diagram of the mod ? Thanks in Advance The link you provided above contains photo bucket pics that are no longer good. I feel like this is a much better solution than cat replacement (at least temporarily) which brings me to my next question.

Thank You

Best Regards,
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