95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

Rear main leak...recommendations?

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Old Feb 8, 2015 | 08:49 PM
  #21  
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From: DFW TEXAS BABY!
Originally Posted by ThorInc
Solid advice...
But sadly horrible grammar and spelling.

I am going with the "I just finished breaking a meatball eating record challenge a few hours earlier and 5.25lb of meatballs caused my brain to spazz".
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Old Feb 9, 2015 | 07:36 AM
  #22  
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From: Carson City, NV
I didn't think it was the rear main yesterday but I tossed and turned all night pondering what else it could be. So this morning I jacked the front of the car up and holy moly look what started happening! I mean this leak is literally just oozing from that bottom crank hole.

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Old Feb 10, 2015 | 08:50 AM
  #23  
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From: DFW TEXAS BABY!
Very strange indeed, I have no idea what could cause that besides some kind of machining error. In which case you either have to get a new crank or have it welded.

Or what I would most likely do, clean it out REAL good, then plug it with FIPG/JBweld.

Last edited by Texas_Ace; Feb 10, 2015 at 08:51 AM.
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Old Feb 10, 2015 | 01:09 PM
  #24  
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From: Carson City, NV
Well after some investigation apparently the flexplate bolt holes are part of the oil system. Without the bolts in the holes the oil system will leak like that. I have never seen an oil system designed so that 8 bolt holes are part of the oil galley system but hey I'm no rocket scientist.
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Old Feb 16, 2015 | 04:52 AM
  #25  
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Crazy experience you had there

Did you get her put back together? Can't you take the oil pan off and work on the gasket without pulling the engine?
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Old Feb 16, 2015 | 06:54 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by halloran
Well after some investigation apparently the flexplate bolt holes are part of the oil system. Without the bolts in the holes the oil system will leak like that. I have never seen an oil system designed so that 8 bolt holes are part of the oil galley system but hey I'm no rocket scientist.
Some '60s and '70s Fords were built similarly.

I recently helped put a clutch in a friends '69 six cylinder Bronco.

The flywheel bolts were loose and had permitted oil to foul the clutch.

Locktite and correct torque stopped the leak.
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Old Feb 16, 2015 | 10:30 AM
  #27  
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From: Carson City, NV
Originally Posted by amalik
Crazy experience you had there

Did you get her put back together? Can't you take the oil pan off and work on the gasket without pulling the engine?
It's still apart because I am waiting for the torque converter to come back from Texas. All I know is that getting it apart wasnt all too bad except for all the damn sensors. I mean seriously holy sensors Batman! Every time I thought all the sensors were disconnected I would find another one. Apparently mine is a cali emissions model not sure if that has anything to do with it not. Drilling out the busted downpipe studs was also lots of fun. I even tried getting the manifold red hot with my oxy acetylene torch but they still wouldn't budge. I am going to do more investigation to find the leak but like the last post said maybe a flexplate bolt hole was leaking. I've never seen threadlock dissolve but I guess over 14 years and 140k miles anything is possible...so maybe thats the source of the leak.

I really don't know if I can get the pan off without pulling the engine. The front diff really is a pita and seems to block access to most of the bolts on the pan. If anyone has any experience removing the pan with the engine in the car please let me know your process I am all ears!

Last edited by halloran; Feb 16, 2015 at 10:35 AM. Reason: typo
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Old Feb 22, 2015 | 07:07 PM
  #28  
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From: Carson City, NV
TTT...anyone have any any advice on removing the oil pan?
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Old Feb 22, 2015 | 07:53 PM
  #29  
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Id say drop the front diff to change the oil pan gasket. Way easier than lifting the engine up enough to change it.
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