re-gearing for 33s
#1
re-gearing for 33s
Hi,
Just wondering if anyone knows the difficulty and/or cost of gearing my '90 4Runner SR5 for 33" tires. I realize this must be done but I've read recommendations of just replacing the diff. I'd rather just change the gears if that's possible.
Any input?
Thanks in advance.
Warren
Just wondering if anyone knows the difficulty and/or cost of gearing my '90 4Runner SR5 for 33" tires. I realize this must be done but I've read recommendations of just replacing the diff. I'd rather just change the gears if that's possible.
Any input?
Thanks in advance.
Warren
#2
Changing the ring and pinions is possible but should not be done by the typical do it your self, shadetree mechanic. Getting the gears to mesh just right for optimum life and performance takes a lot of experience. If you read what's out thee on the subject you will find stuff about shims, preload, analyzing marking paint paterns and other complicated (at least to me) tech jargon. Usually the labor charges to have a pro do this are considerably more than the cost of the gearset parts and install kit. In cases where a locker is also being installed, you can be looking at $1200 or more per axle.
Then there is the break in period where you have to warm the gears up by driving about 10 miles at a time and letting them cool completely before driving again. It has to do with getting the mesh surfaces used to each other. You have to only get them slightly warm at first. Taking them to full normal operating temp without a gradual break in will greatly reduce their life expectancy and they will be more likely to break when used hard later on.
To avoid all of that hassle and expence of new ring and pinions many people, myself included, have chosen to do in themselves using used but not abused diffs. There is a lot of heavy lifting and awkward wrenching on very tight nuts and bolts but it can be done by a non pro with hand tools. I spent less than $450 on parts to regear front and rear from 4.10 to 4.30 while adding an electric locker in the rear and did 98% of the work myself, in my driveway, with no prior experience and only on-line write ups to guide me. The other 2% was the small ammount of welding that is required for the rear electric locker I wanted.
The obvious choice to me is the diff swap DIY way. If I used new parts and a pro mechanic to do my locker and regear mod I would have spent more than what I paid for the whole original truck.
Sorry this was so long of a reply.
Then there is the break in period where you have to warm the gears up by driving about 10 miles at a time and letting them cool completely before driving again. It has to do with getting the mesh surfaces used to each other. You have to only get them slightly warm at first. Taking them to full normal operating temp without a gradual break in will greatly reduce their life expectancy and they will be more likely to break when used hard later on.
To avoid all of that hassle and expence of new ring and pinions many people, myself included, have chosen to do in themselves using used but not abused diffs. There is a lot of heavy lifting and awkward wrenching on very tight nuts and bolts but it can be done by a non pro with hand tools. I spent less than $450 on parts to regear front and rear from 4.10 to 4.30 while adding an electric locker in the rear and did 98% of the work myself, in my driveway, with no prior experience and only on-line write ups to guide me. The other 2% was the small ammount of welding that is required for the rear electric locker I wanted.
The obvious choice to me is the diff swap DIY way. If I used new parts and a pro mechanic to do my locker and regear mod I would have spent more than what I paid for the whole original truck.
Sorry this was so long of a reply.
#3
informative
Thanks Matt,
I do appreciate your time and the lengthy post.
I'll have to do some more research on this but I guess I'll be hitting the Wreckers looking for a replacement diff to swap out.
My current stock set-up is a 4.56 ratio 8" axle. Any opinion on how this would be with the 33s until I can find the right swap? Also, I think the correct ratio would be 4.88 (based on preliminary research) what Toyotas would have this ratio as stock?
Thanks again,
Warren
I do appreciate your time and the lengthy post.
I'll have to do some more research on this but I guess I'll be hitting the Wreckers looking for a replacement diff to swap out.
My current stock set-up is a 4.56 ratio 8" axle. Any opinion on how this would be with the 33s until I can find the right swap? Also, I think the correct ratio would be 4.88 (based on preliminary research) what Toyotas would have this ratio as stock?
Thanks again,
Warren
#4
Do yourself a favor and have some 5:29 gears installed. My buddy Josh has a 3.0 auto with 5:29's and 33's, and it does great. My buddy Wyatt has a 3.0 auto with 4:88's and 33's, and he says its a turd.
#5
Originally posted by Adam F
Do yourself a favor and have some 5:29 gears installed. My buddy Josh has a 3.0 auto with 5:29's and 33's, and it does great. My buddy Wyatt has a 3.0 auto with 4:88's and 33's, and he says its a turd.
Do yourself a favor and have some 5:29 gears installed. My buddy Josh has a 3.0 auto with 5:29's and 33's, and it does great. My buddy Wyatt has a 3.0 auto with 4:88's and 33's, and he says its a turd.
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