UNR.Grad

I finally got around to installing my Tundra calipers and rotors along with some Goodrich SS lines. Now when I am trying to bleed the brakes I am stuck on the first wheel, the rear passenger. Bubbles just keep coming out, does anyone have advice for this? Do you think one of the SS lines isn't fitting right and it's sucking in air? Any help would be appreciated

the_gunslinger

how often do you bleed brakes?

UNR.Grad

First time, but doing it with my step-dad who has done it a ton of times.

the_gunslinger

i thought maybe the pedal was getting depressed or released too quickly. or perhaps it wasn't gettin 'pumped' enough, but with expieriace...hmmm

are they little bubbles or big bubbles (gaps in the fluid)

Kaleb

You are using a brake bleeder right? I have seen some people just use tubes, which works some what, but not very well.

the_gunslinger

i use tubes and a jar. i can't do it alone though.

also, be sure to close the bleeder all the way between pumps. good and tight

Nismo Convert

Best way to do it is to do a gravity bleed first, crack all the bleeders so they have brake fluid coming out, with the cap off the reservoir, fill the reservoir up, grab a beer, and wait about 20 mins, close all the bleeders and start bleeding with the corner furthest away from the reservoir, going to the next furthest, and so on, repeat about 2 times, and you should have a rock solid pedal.

hillbilly

I think what you're seeing are bubbles introduced at the bleeder valve as the brake fluid is coming out. Try cracking the valve open just a bit further to see if the extra flow doesn't eliminate the 'valve gurgle'. To help eliminate this, find a small length of clear tubing to slip over the bleeder value. Be careful not to over pressurize the Master Cylinder when the brake pedal method. For best result, either a gravity feed or Motive Brake bleeder is best.

UNR.Grad

The bleeder we tried to use was a gravity feed over the reservoir and then a hookup that is under suction by air compressor at the bleeder valve. It has a special hookup to the bleeder valve, we tried that and just the clear tube. Also tried the standard two man bleeding technique.

The bleeder:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92924

04 Rocko Taco

I really like the gravity bleed, and then the two man pump method, just gotta make sure you get the bleeder valves closed up tight.

GSGALLANT

Anytime you use suction at the bleeder screws, you risk sucking air in through the threads of the bleeder screw. That is why I like bleeding brakes using positive pressure in the system instead of vacuum. I made my own adapter to bleed brakes. It was cheap and works perfectly. See details here.

Pipsisiwah

I've always wondered about that - what causes gaps in the fluid in the line between the bleed valve and the drain bottle???

the_gunslinger

air in the lines...

Pipsisiwah

Well, yeah. Tiny little bubbles that come out of the cylinder when the valve is open. But what about after the valve is closed - And I know I don't have any leak between the clear tube and the valve (it went on tight enough!)