Welp, there's a newcomer to the SMT world... Welcome Christian (<96_Runner>)!!

As of this morning, Christian is the proud owner of a new SMT-6. And, to welcome him, I wanted to post up the wiring diagram I used - 'cause I think he'll need it.

Big kudos and thanks go to Dr. Z (Galen) for this. I'm transcribing out of an email that he sent me when I first installed my SMT-5.
Now, since installing mine, I've moved away from using the TPS as the analog input to tapping into the MAF signal. I've found this gives the SMT a better idea of the real _load_ on the engine instead of just using how far you've mashed your foot to the floor (i.e., tapping into the TPS).

To anyone doing this for the first time, I would suggest _not_ connecting to the TPS, (skip step 5 above) but instead:
This will tie the ANALOG INPUT of the SMT into the SENSOR side of the MAF signal.


Then, in the global settings, this is a good starting point:Those should get you to the point that the truck will run. I would post my Fuiel/Timing map, but I'm running with the 305 injectors and a hotter spark - your setup will be different.


I'll be out in the dirt all day Saturday, so... FINGER'S CROSSED!

 

Thanks Mark! I have some studying to do. I am not going to put it on right yet. Instead, I am going to prepare myself and hopefully do it right the first time. Soldered of course!

 

Guess I have to pick one up?

 

??? no dude, the SMT is a parallel to the FTC.

Most everything that we're talking about doing with the SMT-x you can do with your FTC. From a functional point of view, the only thing that the SMT gives over the FTC is a switch selectable 2nd set of ignition and fuel maps. Past that, they serve the same purpose.

The SMT does have a 3rd set of tables for tuning things like a water injection system, but that's beyond what you're working with now.

 

...and the SMT6 is $189 cheaper.

 

Good ot see another SMT6 user out there!

Midiwall thats some awsome information you got there....Dr.Z really helped pushed the SMT6's abilitys back in the day

But you really thinkt hat the SMT6 and FTC are same? From my experience with the FTC the only thing it will do is fuel control and retard timing control.
THe SMT6's ability to do 2nd map switching, tune on the fly, water injection control, 7th injection control, user adjustable closed loop to open loop setup ( i think you came up with that? midiwall? i have the informations omewhere from the old SMT6 thread); even MAF removal if you got the time more if i really think hard enough....

Not to knock the FTC as it does its job, i love my SMT6.....and am about to install the SMT7 on my tacoma and get rid of the MAF completly
As i finally got them in and testing the unit

 

I meant to phrase that better... I was thinking more of in the context of what 4RF is doing with his FTC. I plead to it being 1am for the confusion.

I agree though, the SMT-6 (and especially the 7) has more functionality than the FTC. The FTC though seems to have a finer control of fuel delivery, which is something I'd like to have on the SMT, but I ain't switchin'.

 

RIght on

Im lovin the SMT6 on my tacoma...40k km and going strong at 10psi.
Im switching over to the SMT7 for a while to test the functions of the SMT7 on the tacoma (remove MAF). I also am planning on taking away the fuel trim control of the stock ecu and making the smt7 control it for a much finer varience. This way i can get 14.7 at light throttle and make its way up to 12:1 at 5psi then 11.5:1 at 10psi....all with using a wideband sensor that is plugged into the SMT7.

Going to be interesting....gotta trick the stock ecu into thinking that its doing the job still as well.

 

Hey all;

I need help, well actually, Christian (<96_Runner>) needs help.

We've been trying to get an SMT 6 fired up on his truck and are having mixed luck.

The short form is that we're confident of power, MAF and Crank connections, but the truck won't start - or it'll start, sputter, then die.

I'm semi-sure that the issue is with the global settings... Specifically that last tab. The global settings are fewer and worded differently on my SMT-5, and I've already taken my best stab at 'em after scouring the SMT-6 manual.

So, what I'm/we're looking for is a set of KNOWN GOOD global settings for an SMT 6 to drive a '96 4Runner, 3.4L with a manual tranny.


Thanks all; we appreciate it.

Mark

 

(see above)

* bump *

Dig into your global settings folks - Christian needs help!

 

Thanks Mark. I emailed Johnny on the side but I have not gotten a response yet.

Would it do any good to bring the SMT up to Seattle with me at the end of this month?

 

Yeah... we can sink it in concrete and toss it in the Pacific!

Sure, bring it on up! We'll get together at some point and see what we can do. We can even try dropping my -5 into your harness and give that a shot.

 

Well, my wife and I are going to the Olympic Peninsula...

OK, I'll bring it. Hopefully it won't get confiscated by an over-zealous TSA agent.

 

Ok I have a couple of things to add to this string.

First off Toysrme your global settings are still incorrect, the Toyota distributor does not have any missing teeth inside it, it’s a 24-tooth wheel standard pattern (have an open one sitting next to me right now). The SMT assumes crank time so in reality only 12 teeth pass the sensor in one revolution so the following globals apply.

Cylinders 6
Teeth per turn 12
Teeth per firing 4
Low level input off
Mode 10 (not 1)

That should get everything running 100%.

For the 96 4 runner what I would suggest is to first just T into your ignition signal for now, doing this will allow you to determine if the global settings are working without the engine stalling. It also allows you to test your other connections.

I have a feeling the 96 4 runner runs off a 36-2 crank signal, I am not completely sure of this but running the above test will confirm this. Use the following globals.

Cylinders 6(4)
Teeth per turn 36
Teeth per firing 12(18)
Low level input On
Mode 1
Two missing teeth.

I will keep an eye on this post so let me know the results.

 

He has, it does. RPM shows up fine.

The 18 TPF is interesting... Other SMT folks (myself included) are running 36/12. I'm curious where do you see 18 coming from?

btw... it's nice to see a new SMT face around. There are a few old SMT folks here... where ya' been? (and who are you? )

 

Sorry I got that mixed around, its supposed to be 12 for the 6 cylinder. 12 x 3 is 36, 3 fire events in one revolution for a 6 cylinder engine. :monkey:

I am one of the technical guys that work for Perfectpower, try to get involved in the forums from time to time when I am not to busy.

I have edited the string so it reads correct now.

 

Ahh, okay... Neil used to pop in here from time-to-time. Is he still around? And I take it that Monica left? I was trying to get in touch with her about an offer she made me a few months ago. There's an email waiting in the "info@pp" mail box regarding that...


Anyway... if you pop back in here, we understand the timing setup for the box, but the issue we're having is the proper settings for the last tab in the global section on the -6, the one with all the yes/no boxes. Any chance of getting some help there? Right now, I think Christian's set up with:

• Positive Input Polarity: ON
• Positive Output Polarity: ON
• Low level input: ON
• High Frequency: ON
• Low Deviation: OFF
• Interlaced: OFF
• One missing tooth: OFF
• Multicoil: OFF
• Nox injection: OFF
• Lambda input: OFF
• Lambda un-linear: OFF

Thanks for popping in... It's always nice to hear from the manufacturers!

 

I am Neil, just though it would be nice to have a cool handle like everyone else on the forum.

Monica has left but someone should be sorting your order out? I will look into it but it may be quicker to send it again, she left a few months ago.

It might work better if I give a brief description on the uses of each setting:

Pos in/out polarity

Not such a critical setting unless you are modifying the outgoing signal to the coil, what is important in your application is that they are both the same.

Low-level input

Determines the voltage level at which the SMT6 will see a pulse event, in magnetic signals it is typically set to low due to a weak pulse level during cranking and the bipolar nature of the signal. You are running magnetic crank pickups this is why this settings should be on.

High level triggering is necessary for the hall effect/square wave signals because the signal is not bipolar in nature. During the low level portion of the pulse the signal will run quite close to a low level trigger level, it may cause a trigger event because of noise that is on the line, it may not even trigger at all if the signal is offset above the trigger level. Hall/Magnetic signals are always set to high level triggering.

High frequency

Has nothing to do with ignition, it changes the detection bandwidth on the digital input (the blue/white and red/white wires), should not effect your application.

Low deviation

Changes the resolution of values on the analogue map (you shouldn’t need this).

Interlaced

A theoretical change to the rpm reading (it doubles the rpm value) when the cam pickup is used instead of the cam. This setting does nothing to the actual signal itself.

One missing tooth

Set if you have a single missing tooth, missing tooth signal.

Multicoil

An abandoned feature; make sure this is always off.

Nox injection

Changes the cycle time of the extra injector driver to a stable 38Hz signal rather than basing it on RPM. Mainly uses for NOS or boost control.

Lambda input

Redirects the analogue-tuning map for lambda tuning off the lambda input rather than analogue in.

Lambda un-linear

Requires a lot more explanation, but the short of it is it changes the effect values on the analogue have on signal manipulation.

From the looks of things I would say the settings you have shown above are correct for this car.

 

What would you gain by removing the MAF sensor. I'm not bashing the idea, I just need someone to explain why.

 

Wow... HI NEIL!

I'll re-send the email since I haven't heard anything. Is there a better address than just the info@? If you don't want to post it publically, drop me a line at mark@midiwall.com


THANK YOU for the breakout of the options. Christian is going to be visiting my area next week (he's in Arizona, I'm in Washington), so I'll be able to sit with him and go through it. I'll try a couple of things, incluing dropping my -5 into his truck, and trying his -6 in mine.


If you remove the MAF, you'll still need some way to get airflow information into the ECU. There are other ways to do this, but these generations of trucks are looking for a 0-5v signal that tracks air flow.

If you're thinking that the MAF is restrictive, and you're looking to remove the MAF to increase airflow, then the better thing is to fashion a larger diameter MAF into the intake. A lot of folks use a MAF from a Supra, which is a good bit bigger than ours.