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P1135 A/F sensor code

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Old 09-22-2012, 10:12 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 4wd_mofo
Yo Nimrod, this fix your issue? I have the same problem, P1135, replaced the O2 with a denso, new plugs/wires, clean maf, cleaned TB and took apart IAC and cleaned that out, seafoam, new fuel filter and even went as far as a new ECU and im still throwing the P1135 CEL. i have a flow master 40 with stock piping and stock K&N intake filter with elbow mod. Help Help!!!
Do you have voltage at the heater wires? What is the resistance of the sensor heater at the plug?

I assume you checked these before getting a new ECU but I have to ask.
Old 09-25-2012, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by TheDurk
Do you have voltage at the heater wires? What is the resistance of the sensor heater at the plug?

I assume you checked these before getting a new ECU but I have to ask.
I didn't check it because im not an licensed mech or electrician. Took it to a trusted electric mech and he told me the sensor checked out fine, even bought another denso oem replacement o2 and checked the resistance there and it matched the new o2 i put in. thats why i bought the used ecm because he told me thats was the next step...
Old 09-25-2012, 09:13 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by 4wd_mofo
I didn't check it because im not an licensed mech or electrician. Took it to a trusted electric mech and he told me the sensor checked out fine, even bought another denso oem replacement o2 and checked the resistance there and it matched the new o2 i put in. thats why i bought the used ecm because he told me thats was the next step...
It wouldn't be my next step. I would check for voltage at the car side connector. The black and white wires carry the signal. They are not the problem. The other two are the heater wires. They are white-lavender and lavender on a 2002--what year is yours? The first gets 12V+ from the EFI relay and the other gets ground from the ECU. We need to see which one is not working. THAT's the next step. Check across both and then check both to ground for voltage.

Two wires need to work--only one goes to the ECU. So why is changing the ECU the next step? Especially since it is not cheap...and didn't work anyway.
Old 09-26-2012, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 4wd_mofo
I didn't check it because im not an licensed mech or electrician. Took it to a trusted electric mech and he told me the sensor checked out fine, even bought another denso oem replacement o2 and checked the resistance there and it matched the new o2 i put in. thats why i bought the used ecm because he told me thats was the next step...
you keep saying O2 sensor. if you really replaced the o2 sensor
you did nothing for a p1135 code


the p1135 is the air fuel sensor heater in front of the cats, not the
o2 sensor behind the cats. at your mileage the most common cause
of p1135 is a plain old, used up, a/f sensor. and you need toyota OEM only, no
screwing around with aftermarket. make sure you are getting the right part replaced

Last edited by BigBallsMcFalls; 09-26-2012 at 07:13 PM.
Old 09-27-2012, 07:58 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by BigBallsMcFalls
you keep saying O2 sensor. if you really replaced the o2 sensor
you did nothing for a p1135 code


the p1135 is the air fuel sensor heater in front of the cats, not the
o2 sensor behind the cats. at your mileage the most common cause
of p1135 is a plain old, used up, a/f sensor. and you need toyota OEM only, no
screwing around with aftermarket. make sure you are getting the right part replaced
Aww, crap, you really think he just swapped the back one and not the front? That would be too easy. But you are absolutely right, it IS an A/F and not an O2. Check the simple stuff first. OEM is Denso. You can get the Denso number here: http://www.densoaftermarket.com/catalog/ and then Google that number to get prices. I always get them on Amazon. Exact same as dealer sells and less money.

Last edited by TheDurk; 09-27-2012 at 08:00 AM.
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