Thanks for the info. That's who I bought my S/C from. No problems then, but I have had problems since then. Probably check out those places you mentioned. Thanks,

Chris

 

Well, I've decided to have my local import shop do the rear seal and bearing, because I just don't have the time this week to get it done before my vacation this Sunday. He's only going to charge $82.69 for labor, and I've alreadybought all the parts.

Chris

 

that's not a bad price dude. did you buy a new ABS rotor just in case he mangles the original one while pulling it off? Also, that gives you somebody to go back to if it still leaks, that's a plus in itself. did you have a press? I was wondering how you planned on pressing everything back on. make sure they clean that gasket between the dust shield and the axle flange real good so there isn't any gear oil left in it. let me know if you need anymore info.

 

I work at a Nissan Dealership so I was going to use their press, but when this guy told me that's all he was going to charge, I had to do it that way instead. I bought all the part numbers you had mentioned, so he'll have it all to put back in. I really do appreciate the help.

Chris

 

Yes - this happened to me....my drivers side seal went approximately 400 miles after replacing the dino with synthetics- I replaced the seals and haven't had a prob yet (approx 300mi on new seals) I believe this follows the rule of dino oils not having a uniform consistency and synthetics being 'slicker' ....I just went wheeling up a mountain trail that didn't go below 110* all the way up (that's the desert for ya) and it may have contributed to the seal failing.

89K on Runner

 

what is dino oil? Is that what the Flintstones use?

 

'Dino oil' is a base stock oil derived from natural sources ie. petroleum- refined and used for various applications. Synthetics oils are made artificially by a chemical process of synthesis, especially so as to resemble a natural product - or if your just being a smart ass 'Dino oil' is the skid marks in your Depends

 

hey hey hey!!! I'm never a smart a$$ . I was serious, I've never heard it called that before. maybe I'm stupid. so what you are saying is that the use of synthetic dear oil might actually prevent the chronic seal blowing on the 98-99's? if so I might be converting soon then. I will tell you though, my seals when they were going out alot would take a couple thousand miles between changing. when you get more miles after this last change then post again or pm me whether it's gone out again or not. I would be really interested. since the last time I did the job I've gone about 2-3k with no probs and the 'dino' oil and still going strong with it.

EDIT: I meant that I did the passenger side for the first time since buying the runner new and it's been about 2-3000 miles. The drivers side I did a while ago and I've gone about 10k+ on that one.

 

I'm saying just the opposite .....looks to me the seal is quite thin, and synthetics would squeeze by the seal easier. Since the axle is only supported by the outer bearing there probably is some play that contributes to the seal wearing out prematurely.

I'll keep you posted...

 

I'm going to go Amsoil synthetic in mine!

Chris

 

I guess I won't jump to synthetic then since you are theorizing that it 'causes' leaks.

 

let me know how it works for you chris. I just ordered my AMSOIL air filter and a bottle of oil two days ago so the deckplate mod will be joining the ISR mod I already did pretty soon.

 

I've heard a seena lot of folks running the synthetic in the axles with not trouble, but your theory on causing it to leak more often might be true, although I beleive it's probably based more so on the installation. Especially the pressing of the bearing. It's got to be pretty darn close to exact, I'm sure.

Chris

 

the bearing has a positive stop when you press it on. then the retainer sits right up on it and then the snap ring. the only thing left to the installer to measure is the placement of the ABS rotor and its retainer. My ABS rotor has been half it's width off and the brakes still functioned correctly. I have since fixed that, it was toyota stealership mechanics that had the rotor pressed too far out on the axle. Makes me really not trust them, they obviously didn't measure nor did they look through the speed sensor hole in the axle to make sure it lined up.

 

Well I now have 93K on the Runner...thats 4K on the new seals including many hard off road miles..and no probs!
I dont know what made the original seals leak.

 

I'm switching to Mobil 1 synthetic in a couple weeks after I've broken in my new 4.88's with the ARB Locker. hehe. I have a blend in right now. I don't leak yet, but it's only been about 75 miles since I dropped in the new 3rd and cleaned the axle assemblies up a bit and replaced the inner seals on both sides. If it leaks again, I'm just replacing the whole housing and axle asseblies. that would be a whole new rear end from the 3rd member back. dropping the new front diff with 4.88's and and ARB locker this weekend as well as installing mecatech cv boots since both my inboard boots have now given up the ghost.

 

Are those mecatech boots that much better than stock?

Chris