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NEED HELP QUICK - Taurus Fan Install

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Old 09-20-2003, 06:57 PM
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Question NEED HELP QUICK - Taurus Fan Install

Here's the deal. I have the fan in and wired. I got one of the Hayden fixed fan controllers. When the Runner hits operating temp, the fan cuts on and blows the 25amp inline fuse. I tried it with a 30 amp and the fan came on for about 3sec then the fuse blew. I am fairly sure that everything is wired up properly. It may be important to note that I hooked up the relay to the high speed instead of the low. I read in one of the posts here (that I can't find now) about the high speed drawing 40amps. My question, can I put a 40amp fusible link inline? If I do that, will the relay be able to handle the draw? Will the wiring that came with the fan controller be able to handle 40amps?

Last, but not least, I am at a loss as to what wire to tap into to hook up the lead to the compressor clutch (so the fan will come on automatically when the a/c engages). Can someone here tell me which wire to tap into, and where?

Please help!

Thanks in advance!!!
Reepicheep
Old 09-20-2003, 07:27 PM
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First of all you can't use a Hayden fan controller to directly control the high speed setting on the fan. It draws a whole lot of amps. You can use the Hayden controller to activate a bigger relay (at least like 75A and fused accordingly). You can use the Hayden to activate the low speed setting on the fan directly. As far as the A/C compressor wire there is a green one on the passenger side of the engine (3.0 V6) that connects to the compressor. I tapped into this wire and have had no problems. Again, if you want to use the high speed setting, you will need another relay that is cascaded by the temp controller. I have used only the low speed setting and have never had any problems overheating (except when the adjustable controllers (2) died!) Any other questions, please ask.
Old 09-20-2003, 07:30 PM
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No, you definately cannot use the high speed function with the controller. The 25 amp fuse is there for a reason and if you bypass it and still use the high speed function you'll end up burning your truck to the ground.

Yes, supposedly the high speed function draws 40 amps continuous, but it also supposedly draws 130 amps at start up. That fan controller wiring cannot handle it.

I'm in the middle of hooking up the high speed function and I'm using (2) 40 amp relays in parallel to handle the 40 amp continuous current. This will be a strictly manual setup where I have a switch in the cab that will control the relays. I'm also using (2) 12 guage wires to power the high speed fan. 12 gauge appears to be about the same size as the dual wires coming out of the fan motor.

I didn't hook up the fan to the AC because on my 4runner there is already an electric fan that comes on when the ac is turned on.

Disclaimer: I cannot guarantee my setup can handle the current safely.
Old 09-20-2003, 07:34 PM
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Oh, and also remember that if you use the high speed function continuously you will be really taxing the stock alternator. I already notice my battery gauge twitch with just the low setting. Unless you have a HD alternator, I wouldn't use the high speed function much.
Old 09-21-2003, 03:44 AM
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Originally posted by Robinhood150
... if you bypass it and still use the high speed function you'll end up burning your truck to the ground.


Hmmm... that would definitely get me in dutch with the wife... especially since she drives the 4Runner the most.

Well, today after church I will rewire into the low speed side of the fan.

Seafarinman - whereabouts did you tap into the compressor clutch wire? Did you tap in at the compressor, or further back somewhere along the wire?

Thank you Robinhood and Seafarinman for responding so quickly. Y'all have my gratitude.

Peace!
Reepicheep
Old 09-21-2003, 07:18 AM
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I don't see how the high speed taxes the alternator that much, except for the initial spike of power needed to get it running. After it's running it doesn't take much more power than the low speed setting.

Chris
Old 09-21-2003, 08:32 AM
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Originally posted by ravencr
I don't see how the high speed taxes the alternator that much, except for the initial spike of power needed to get it running. After it's running it doesn't take much more power than the low speed setting.

Chris
I thought I read somewhere that the low setting draws ~7A continuous and the high setting draws ~40A continuous. From this thread the stock alternator is anywhere from 60 amps to 75 amps. Forty amps continuous is over half the current capacity of the stock alternator, that's rather significant. Plus add in high beams at night, the stereo, ventilation fan on high, etc.
Old 09-21-2003, 08:41 AM
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Yeah, that's probably true! I guess I'll be running the low setting too, because I don't want to spend the extra money right now for the alternator, and bigger relays, etc.

Chris
Old 09-21-2003, 08:43 AM
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Well I'm setting mine up so I can turn on the high setting at a flip of the switch, "just in case." Two 40A relays cost me $4 each from a car audio store.

Last edited by Robinhood150; 09-21-2003 at 08:44 AM.
Old 09-21-2003, 08:44 AM
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Can you help us out with a wiring diagram or writeup when you do it? That would be helpful. I'm really bad with electrical stuff.

Chris
Old 09-21-2003, 08:48 AM
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I'm not that great with electricity either, I know just enough to be dangerous...you know what I mean . I can't guarantee that what I do is correct, but I'll post a diagram of my relay setup later and ask people if it's right.
Old 09-21-2003, 09:50 AM
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Reepicheep,
I just installed one of those wire taps that has the male spade connector that installs into the side. You can tap that wire anywhere on its exposed length really. As far as the low/high speed settings, there is no reason to spend the money on all the required stuff to use the high speed setting unless the low is not doing the job. I haven't encountered anyone here yet that required the high speed setting. I guess that the V8 guys that run the fan (5.0 Ford and 502 Chevy guys) might require the high speed setting.
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