My new 1998 4Runner SR5- Dial-Up Beware
#21
You may want to pick up a new SC intake manifold gasket before you pull the SC off (part # 17176-62040), just in case the old one looks too bad to reuse. Also the fuel rail banjo bolts are suppost to get new washer gaskets too, if you go by the FSM (4 of those).
What are your plans for the 92?
What are your plans for the 92?
#22
Originally Posted by mt_goat
You may want to pick up a new SC intake manifold gasket before you pull the SC off (part # 17176-62040), just in case the old one looks too bad to reuse. Also the fuel rail banjo bolts are suppost to get new washer gaskets too, if you go by the FSM (4 of those).
What are your plans for the 92?
What are your plans for the 92?
As I mentioned before, I would rather do it myself to assure its done exactly right.As for the '92, I'm selling it in about a month. It has served me well, but no point in trying to have two 4Runners, I would rather move on to the '98. I have to do some slight work on it first: fix e-brake handle, replace windshield, new oil pan gasket. I might have to replace the driver rear axle seal (and therefore rear brakes) also.
A friend of mine at work said he might be interested in buying it for his son, to replace the Isuzu Trooper they have now. I hope to get about $5500-6000 for it, including the almost-new set of TrXuS M/T's (I have two sets of tires, 31" BFG A/T's for the street, 33x12.50 M/T's for off-road.) If that falls through, I'll try selling it locally and maybe post a classified here on YT. Too bad the TrXuS M/T's won't fit on the new 4Runner, but they are 15" rims.
We will see what happens, I will miss a little...
But, I have a new one to keep me company. I have gone off of a little wisdom given to me by a friend a while back: "Don't quit your job until you find a better one...same for girlfriends and cars." I will have transport while the '98 is down, but once I'm done with the URD the '92 has to go.
Last edited by mastacox; Aug 28, 2006 at 08:45 AM.
#23
Change is really good, Change is really good, Change is really good, Change is really good, Change is really good, Change is really good, Change is really good,
Under the driver's seat is the computer for the keyless, so you could potentially move it. Under the passenger is the fan for the rear heater. Hope that helps ya. The SC should come off really easy. Don't let anything get in there when you pull it off !!!!!
Thanks for the compliments on the condition - it was important to me to keep it clean, but it is meant to off road so go get er dirty!!
As for a turbo xA
you'll be the first I call.

PS - get a website!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Under the driver's seat is the computer for the keyless, so you could potentially move it. Under the passenger is the fan for the rear heater. Hope that helps ya. The SC should come off really easy. Don't let anything get in there when you pull it off !!!!!
Thanks for the compliments on the condition - it was important to me to keep it clean, but it is meant to off road so go get er dirty!!
As for a turbo xA
you'll be the first I call.

PS - get a website!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Last edited by 4RunnerFever; Aug 28, 2006 at 09:13 AM.
#24
Originally Posted by 4RunnerFever
PS - get a website!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 

Comcast lets me have a website so I'll work on making one (problem is, I think it's only like 50 megs). But, busy with work and URD kit right now so... Man, I haven't made a webpage in a while, need to get myself an HTML editor to make it a little easier on me. I used Dreamweaver before and liked it, also Frontpage, I'll see if I have a copy of either somewhere.

I might just buy myself a webspace, I think for like $50/year I can get way more than I need.
Last edited by mastacox; Aug 28, 2006 at 09:55 AM.
#25
Originally Posted by 4RunnerFever
The SC should come off really easy. Don't let anything get in there when you pull it off !!!!!
#26
Originally Posted by mt_goat
Yeah duct tape works pretty good for covering up the holes while it's off.
Last edited by mastacox; Aug 28, 2006 at 11:23 AM.
#27
Step 2 done: got the new exhaust bung welded on to the exhaust, for the WB O2 sensor. Things are moving along 
Next step: take off the supercharger, drain the coolant, unbolt the oil dipstick from the block...

Next step: take off the supercharger, drain the coolant, unbolt the oil dipstick from the block...
Last edited by mastacox; Aug 28, 2006 at 03:01 PM.
#28
[RANT]
ARG idiot NAPA tech...
I got them to do the bung, which turned out ok (other than the fact that I think it might be too close to the CAT, but we'll see how it works out) but I'm driving back from work and I hear a loudish clicking, kind of like a small exhaust leak (I'm like WTF, this wasn't making this sound this morning). So I crawl under the 4Runner after I change clothes, and one of the nuts isn't tightened on flange that attaches the exhaust to the crossover/collector
I go to tighten it, and it pops off- completely stripped
The stud is screwed too, the first half-inch of threads are completely smoothed/ground off.
So now I have to go back to NAPA tomorrow (during work no less) when they open and give them holy hell for messing up my exhaust and not telling me or replacing the stud/nut
They better replace that stuff for free now
All they had to say is "hey, one of the studs stripped when we were putting the exhaust back on, so we replaced it for $XX..." IS THAT SO HARD?!!! It was already mostly apart, just fix it! You're cramping my style making me drive around in this nice-ass 4Runner with an exhaust leak, and I have to take it apart for important upgrades NOW...
[/RANT]
ARG idiot NAPA tech...
I got them to do the bung, which turned out ok (other than the fact that I think it might be too close to the CAT, but we'll see how it works out) but I'm driving back from work and I hear a loudish clicking, kind of like a small exhaust leak (I'm like WTF, this wasn't making this sound this morning). So I crawl under the 4Runner after I change clothes, and one of the nuts isn't tightened on flange that attaches the exhaust to the crossover/collector
I go to tighten it, and it pops off- completely stripped
The stud is screwed too, the first half-inch of threads are completely smoothed/ground off.So now I have to go back to NAPA tomorrow (during work no less) when they open and give them holy hell for messing up my exhaust and not telling me or replacing the stud/nut
They better replace that stuff for free now
All they had to say is "hey, one of the studs stripped when we were putting the exhaust back on, so we replaced it for $XX..." IS THAT SO HARD?!!! It was already mostly apart, just fix it! You're cramping my style making me drive around in this nice-ass 4Runner with an exhaust leak, and I have to take it apart for important upgrades NOW...
[/RANT]
Last edited by mastacox; Aug 28, 2006 at 05:13 PM.
#30
Originally Posted by mt_goat
Yeah, you better do your own fuel kit install. Sounds like the local mechanics aren't the brightest bulbs in the house.
Now I DEFINITELY only trust myself to do the install, on ANYTHING.
Last edited by mastacox; Aug 28, 2006 at 05:42 PM.
#31
damn. you really love that new 4runner. I am still in love with that color.
do u have the black fender flares? i think those would look real sharp on tha ttruck, sorta go for a grey/black theam with the few spots of silver/chrome.
bad ass none the less.
do u have the black fender flares? i think those would look real sharp on tha ttruck, sorta go for a grey/black theam with the few spots of silver/chrome.
bad ass none the less.
#32
Originally Posted by norflaballer
damn. you really love that new 4runner. I am still in love with that color.
do u have the black fender flares? i think those would look real sharp on tha ttruck, sorta go for a grey/black theam with the few spots of silver/chrome.
bad ass none the less.
do u have the black fender flares? i think those would look real sharp on tha ttruck, sorta go for a grey/black theam with the few spots of silver/chrome.
bad ass none the less.
#34
Originally Posted by 4RunnerFever
NAPA - Not A Professional Amongem
Flush em!
Flush em!

They seem legit, just got a little unlucky with the tech I guess.Unfortunately the closest dealership for me is Santa Fe, and from what I hear they're the typical "stealer." I do wish there was a great dealer close to me like you have, Graham. Oh well.
Tonight, I begin the supercharger removal. Glad I got the fuel pump done, because time is at a premium now
#36
Alright, I'm doing good!
Two hours or wrenching this evening after work, and I have the supercharger removed, dynamic tensioner removed, and everything ready for installing the fuel injectors (I have to take off the fuel rails and stuff), T-fitting for the FTC MAP sensor to the boost port, and the thermostat.
While I have all of this stuff apart, I think I'm going to go ahead and do the ISR mod too, I LOVE the supercharger whine.
Two hours or wrenching this evening after work, and I have the supercharger removed, dynamic tensioner removed, and everything ready for installing the fuel injectors (I have to take off the fuel rails and stuff), T-fitting for the FTC MAP sensor to the boost port, and the thermostat.
While I have all of this stuff apart, I think I'm going to go ahead and do the ISR mod too, I LOVE the supercharger whine.
#38
Alrighty, 3 more hours of wrenching, and I have the injectors installed (haven't done the injector harness yet) the spark plugs, and the thermostat... Not too shabby IMO since I took my sweet time (especially with the injectors.)
Tomorrow I stay up nice and late (since no worky in Fri) and install the rest of the stuff and put it all back together! It may end up stretching into Friday morning also, but that's fine with me.
Stuff Left:
Injector plugs [est. 1 hr]
Dual Gauge Pod [est. 30 min]
Auxillary Fuse Block [est. 30 min]
FTC (biggest thing) [est. 2.5 hr]
WB O2 Sensor and gauge [est. 1 hr]
Hard-mount the inverter [est. 1 hr]
Miscellaneous [est. 30 min]
So by my estimates I have about 7 hours of install work left. We'll see how close I am. By the way, putting all of this stuff in myself was definitely a good idea, this way I get some experience wrenching on the 3.4l, and can kind of do an inspection of everything in the engine bay.

P.S. Write-up with pictures is coming, I swear... I know this thread is worthless without pics.
Tomorrow I stay up nice and late (since no worky in Fri) and install the rest of the stuff and put it all back together! It may end up stretching into Friday morning also, but that's fine with me.
Stuff Left:
Injector plugs [est. 1 hr]
Dual Gauge Pod [est. 30 min]
Auxillary Fuse Block [est. 30 min]
FTC (biggest thing) [est. 2.5 hr]
WB O2 Sensor and gauge [est. 1 hr]
Hard-mount the inverter [est. 1 hr]
Miscellaneous [est. 30 min]
So by my estimates I have about 7 hours of install work left. We'll see how close I am. By the way, putting all of this stuff in myself was definitely a good idea, this way I get some experience wrenching on the 3.4l, and can kind of do an inspection of everything in the engine bay.

P.S. Write-up with pictures is coming, I swear... I know this thread is worthless without pics.
Last edited by mastacox; Aug 31, 2006 at 05:19 AM.
#40
Well, the 4Runner did great over the weekend. The power is awesome
Passing is effortless, but that goes without saying. It throws roosts out the back like crazy
I'll have a video of me doing some 4-wheel drifting in a mud pit later, but for now, I have a picture of the 4Runner's first "real" time off-road (mainly for Graham). I got a little muddy
The rear-end actually flexes quite well, but I need swaybar disco's for the front.

The URD tuning is somewhat there, I still need to work on deceleration/engine braking and a little on the WOT open loop. I have gotten rid of almost all of the spark knock, I just haven't gotten to rooting out a few small areas, around 2000-3000rpm at 3-4psi of boost. Overall, it drives great on the highway. I'm seeing about 18-19 mpg on the highway right now, hoping it will imporve with a little more stable tune (aiming for just over 20), it runs kind of rich right now. I also have to decrease the refresh rate on the AFR gauge, because it's WAY too fast right now (fortunately, it's programmable).
One question: when engine braking down a steeper hill (engine vacuum around -20 in-hg), the AFR goes off-the-gauge lean. I thought I remembered reading somewhere the ECU turns off fuel to the cylinders while under heavy engine braking. Is this true, or do I need to dump more fuel into the cylinders? This only happens when I am engine braking down a steep descent and turn off OD or shift into 2nd.
Overall, I'm very happy with it. The hardest part of the URD install was by far the FTC, but I really took my time to make sure I didn't have to re-do anything. The supercharger is much louder with the 2.2" pulley, and I have been trying to tune the engine with the deckplate out (other than when going through the mud this weekend).
It runs like crazy, hands down. I'm working on a writeup and pics for a website, I'll let you guys know how that goes.
Passing is effortless, but that goes without saying. It throws roosts out the back like crazy
I'll have a video of me doing some 4-wheel drifting in a mud pit later, but for now, I have a picture of the 4Runner's first "real" time off-road (mainly for Graham). I got a little muddy
The rear-end actually flexes quite well, but I need swaybar disco's for the front.

The URD tuning is somewhat there, I still need to work on deceleration/engine braking and a little on the WOT open loop. I have gotten rid of almost all of the spark knock, I just haven't gotten to rooting out a few small areas, around 2000-3000rpm at 3-4psi of boost. Overall, it drives great on the highway. I'm seeing about 18-19 mpg on the highway right now, hoping it will imporve with a little more stable tune (aiming for just over 20), it runs kind of rich right now. I also have to decrease the refresh rate on the AFR gauge, because it's WAY too fast right now (fortunately, it's programmable).
One question: when engine braking down a steeper hill (engine vacuum around -20 in-hg), the AFR goes off-the-gauge lean. I thought I remembered reading somewhere the ECU turns off fuel to the cylinders while under heavy engine braking. Is this true, or do I need to dump more fuel into the cylinders? This only happens when I am engine braking down a steep descent and turn off OD or shift into 2nd.
Overall, I'm very happy with it. The hardest part of the URD install was by far the FTC, but I really took my time to make sure I didn't have to re-do anything. The supercharger is much louder with the 2.2" pulley, and I have been trying to tune the engine with the deckplate out (other than when going through the mud this weekend).
It runs like crazy, hands down. I'm working on a writeup and pics for a website, I'll let you guys know how that goes.
Last edited by mastacox; Sep 6, 2006 at 06:20 AM.



Of course, he was all stock