TStango

Has anyone experienced this on a 3rd generation?

Low beams don't work -The high beams do, but there is no high beam indicator on the dash. I already tried swapping in the HL relay off of my girlfriends Corrolla (same part number) and that did nothing.

So it must be a switch right? I'm guessing it's in the steering column and I hope it is easy to get to. Has anyone done this?

jc1kz

try under the hood there is a fuse box there that has fuses for both the high beam (which u say are working) and the low beams......my did the same on the highway and freaked me out.....had to use the high beams and everyone in the oncoming side were flashing to me to lower them but try that fuse box under the hood

superjoe83

thats interesting, I'm having the same exact same problem on my 1st gen, no low beams, but high beams work without the indicator lighting up

TStango

The fuses look ok.

TStango

Anyone?

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

At least in the earlier Toyotas, the high beam indicator is wired in series with the low beams and in parallel with the low beam switch (to ground). Thus, when the low beams are on, current flows from the HL relay, through the low beam filament and through the low beam contact in the combo switch to ground. When high beams are on, a little current "leaks" through the low beam filament and then through the high beam indicator to turn it on. If low beams and the high beam indicator are both out, there is likely a wiring problem between the headlights and the dash/combo switch (broken wire for example).

http://www.4Crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...l#HarnessTypes

Astralplane

This happened to me once.
I chased the problem with no success. Fuses, wiring, etc.
Turned out both lamps went out at or around the same time.
Replaced both problem solved.

TStango

Wow, thanks for the detailed response. So my problem could be one of two things. Either both low beam filaments burned out at the same time, or there is a short in the dash/combo switch. It can't be the wiring since I haven't touched anything.
I do have those Sylvania Silverstar light bulbs, so I'm not going to completely rule out both low beam filaments burning out, as unlikely as that may seem. I have read about them being short-lived for some people on this forum. I'll start with popping in the stock 9004 bulbs and take it from there.
Thanks for your responses

Astralplane

When mine went out at the same time they also were those extra bright type, rip off, burn out to quick bulbs. They predated Silverstars.
Go with the double life standard bulbs. That's what they came from the factory with.

TStango

Thanks for the advice. I'll let ya know what happens tonight when I swap them out.

TStango

I just swapped out the bulbs and that was the problem.

Sylvania Silverstars apparently "expire" after so many hours. I got almost two years out of them. I just thought it would be nearly impossible for both to go at the exact same time. Garbage.

Thanks again guys. I had thought for sure I would be replacing a burned out/shorted switch hidden in the dash or steering column.

Astralplane

Glad to hear it.
Silverstars have a rated life of only 150. Regular lamps 320 and Long Life 850.
Silverstars are a complete waste of money.

ace

i chased mine to the turn signal assy. they would come on with the tilt going up and down. one wire was pinched in half.

IAMMAN

I replaced the Sylvania Silverstars with my original Headlamps and problem solved. I am disappointed with the life of the Sylvania's.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

One thing to check is the voltage drop across the headlights when they are on (i.e. under load). If the voltage is not high enough, a good halogen lamp will burn out very fast. The brighter the bulb and or the higher wattage it is, the faster it will burn out with insufficient voltage/current. This is because halogen lamps need to reach a certain operating temperature in order for the halogen gas to reflect and re-deposit metal ions boiling off the filament back onto the filament. If that temperature is not reached (due to insufficient current), the filement boils away at an accelerated rate and burns out prematurely. Voltage across the lamp terminals should be within a few 10th of a volt of the battery voltage.

When I tested the headlights in my '85, I was only getting about 10.6 volts at the bulbs with the stock wiring. Adding an upgraded relay harness got the voltage up to about 0.4volts of the battery:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...adlights.shtml

Besides added bulb life, they also put out 40% more light to boot!

pinoy

this just happened to me. I'm pretty sure it's the same problem since i too have the SS bulbs.
So I'm going to downgrade in color. Now that Wiring harness mod is lookin' nice. What do you think?

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Anything to take the electrical load off of the marginal stock headlight wiring and switch is a good idea. Since installing a relayed-harness in my '85, have not had a single problem with lights, high beam and low beam come on with a flick of the switch.

Beach-Rat

Pulled out of work Monday and … no headlights.. but I had high beams with no high beam indicator.. checked all fuses, good..

Search YotaTech… took a dozen posts before I got down to this one..

Was both low beams burned out at the same time..

Thanks to all for the help.. old help but help just the same..

eric-the-red

It seems to be a common problem in Toyota's, if one bulb goes then the other one on the circuit goes very soon after. It happened with my tail lights, took ages checking the circuit until someone suggested I replace both bulbs.

biocruiser

Thanks, ace for that input. My truck was doing the same thing and I thought I was going crazy. They went out at night in the rain - the only way i was able to get them on was to pull the lever back like I was flashing someone. The lights went out, then came back on, and then went out. I even replaced the relay to no avail ($40!).
Tilt is nice, but not in a pinch.