Okay folks, will be installing OME coils and shocks in the back, SAWS in the front. Pointers I've run across-

1) make sure the longer of the two OME coils is on the gas tank side of the vehicle, regardless of what the label says.

2) Spray penetrating oil on everything the night before to ease loosening of bolts.

3) Install SAWS valve facing inboard.

4) Measure before and after install to get an idea of lift.

Any other tips? Did you guys disconnect the rear brake lines during the install?

 

You nailed it with #1 & 2!

If you have a set of wrachet wrenches, it will make disconnecting the sway bars and the front upper shock mounts go much faster.

Definitely get some penetrant on the upper shock mounts, both front and back.

 

David,

I can't help with the lift, since I can't afford the parts quite yet. Question for ya though... How much effect did the TJM have on you w/o any lift? I've got one sitting around waiting for the money for the lift, but it's taking a LOT of room in my apt!

Thanks!

 

I know that my truck is a 2nd gen, but this may apply to your truck too. When I installed my rear coils, it made it much easier to disconnect the sway bar. We then jacked up the opposite side of the axle that we were working on. This made it much easier to push down the drum and reinstall the coils. I didn't use a coil compressor either.

I know you mentioned presoaking everything already, but I can't stress enough that you make sure you get everything. I didn't soak the nuts on top of the shocks and we ended up spending an hour trying to get one nut off that was rusted on. And that was using an air impact wrench. I've heard that PB Blaster is good stuff for the job but have yet to use any.

Good Luck with the install.

EDIT: mertztr, you beat me to it. And you touched on almost everything I said.

 

Scottiac,

I didn't measure to see how much the drop was, but if there is one, it isn't real noticeable. The vehicle will handle a bit strange until you get used to the extra weight in the front, but I'd go ahead and install it without the lift- mine already took a good hit offroading, so it has some scratches on it already. I get alot of looks while driving around.

 

5) Review sschafer's site . Its pretty thorough.

6) Get a strap-wrench for taking off the rear shocks top mount. This lets you hold a wrench on the top nut and use the strap-wrench to turn the upper part of the shock, i.e. the dust cover. On the rears, the dust cover is welded to the top mount.

I didn't disconnect any brake lines.

 

Good idea loosehead.

PB blaster is my friend!

 

let me know if you need any extra hands david. i don't really know anything about installing lifts, but if you need any help give me a shout.

 

This will be my first lift too! I'll PM some info to you.

 

Dang all these 4ROC emblems!

You guys look like a gang or something.

How do I get jumped in?

 

Give me five minutes...

 

Hey '96, how bout this:

The more people that run this avatar, the more interest we'll get in 4roc.

 

 

Sweet. As an FYI, I'm going to push for no dues, people will purchase their 4ROC stickers via www.cafepress.com. Won't matter if your state doesn't have a state chapter, can still be a member, and we'll have some international registry of members. You'll register your basic info online, receive e-newsletters and such. Also, by no dues, no worries about tax status for the club and such.

 

Cool man! Thanks.

 

so you doin this all tomorrow?(sat)

 

Yup.

 

aight. thats what i was trying to message you about both times that it said your inbox was full. i guess your just a popular guy on here.

 

Don't get me wrong, the 4roc logo is very cool. But everyone looks the same now. I actually have to look at the name instead of (usually) the pic of the rig. Oh well.

 

Hey do I get to use the Az4roc logo? Or would I have to use an Indiana one now I'm over here?