Never heard of a boost leak test, did a bit of googling. My 4runner is naturally aspirated, boost leak tests seem to be more of a turbocharger thing. I gather you would test by capping the air tube behind the MAF and in front of the throttle body, then pressurize the tube between, and listening for leaks? How much pressure should I fill it with?

 

Boost leak tests are generally for boosted engines but since you can get it to stay running you can't run normal vacuum leak tests.

The boost leak test will allow you to track down vacuum leaks without starting the engine.

You will connect the tester to the TB and pressurize the intake manifold. Just put in enough pressure to be able to hear any leaks. Then get some soapy water and spray it anywhere you might have a leak.

 

Today I finally found the time to take it all apart again. Finally found something wrong! I turned the engine over by hand to look for missing teeth on the crank timing gear, but somehow I missed this until I had it all the way apart.

During the process of tearing it down, I dropped the crank pulley and broke a section off the outer rim. I will have to replace it now as well. I suppose I should also buy a new crankshaft pulley bolt, as they are a single use item and this one has been torqued once already. I have been looking at a lightweight crank pulley, does anybody have input on the URD Supergrip Crankshaft Pulley?
http://www.urdusa.com/product_info.p..._id=1230100021

 

Yep, a missing tooth on the trigger wheel would do it.

 

Crank pulley damage from dropping. Not sure how I broke a tooth off the crank timing pulley. I was quite careful with it the whole way thru.

 

I am glad to hear you got the problem figured out. It is not the first time I have heard of the crank pulley breaking and causing problems.

I'd get a new crank pulley and hit the junk/salvage yard for a replacement harmonic balancer, in which the latter usually runs from $50 to $100.

 

If it was my truck, I'd run the dampener as is. I am curious how the urd pulley performs though. Glad you found the problem.

 

Those teeth are a bit fragile and easily bend or break if using a screwdriver or small pry bar to work the pulley off.

 

Got the new pulley on and torqued down. Test started the truck, everything seems good. Unfortunately, while torquing down the fan mounting bracket one of the mounting studs stripped it's threads. That will set me back a few days waiting for a new stud to be shipped in. :'(

 

That sure is a nice looking pulley

 

god damn, foam that engine up while your at it

 

We had a dust storm last week....movie quality stuff. Visibility zero. That stuff gets everywhere here

 

How much did the pulley set you back?

Glad to hear that it starts and runs with only a minor set back now.

I ran into a dust storm in Plainview on I27 years ago.

 

Pulley was 311 shipped. About $80 more than one from Advanced Auto, seemed like the thing to do.

 

A shot of the dust last week

 

holly crap that's bad

 

Got the new stud from toyota today. I installed my first ever Heli-coil...I stripped the mounting threads for the stud. Flushed the coolant, took her for a drive!!! Picked up some water and a fresh propane bottle for the garage heater.

In the 6 weeks downtime, I learned to appreciate my 4runner even more. Got so tired of borrowing the wife's Audi A4. I did learn a great deal about my truck, and engines in general. Lots of firsts, I don't regret it at all. Thanks all for the help, pointers and suggestions along the way.