95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

I need EMERGENCY help with my 3VZE

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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 03:40 PM
  #21  
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I just got off the phone with the guy from the shop. The news is not good.

Grand total for rebuilding my engine: $3531

$1362 for 21.2 hours of labor, plus $1850 for rebuilding my engine, plus taxes.

Estimated down time: 2 weeks


Rebuilding my engine (vs buying a rebuilt engine) involves cleaning and boring the block, new pistons, rings, crankshaft, rod bearings, main bearings, valves with a valve job, valve seals, valve springs, oil pump, necessary machining, and reassembly.

The guy at the shop said the same thing DudeBud said. Places like Jiffy Lube sell this engine cleaner crap and it is completely unecessary. It displaces oil from places in your engine (like rod bearings) that absolutely must have oil at all times. So when you run your engine with this stuff in it, even for only five minutes, you are basically running your engine for five minutes without oil. Even after adding the fresh oil back in afterwards, the damage was already done. It was only a matter of time before something happened. Add this to the fact that my rod bearings had 103000 miles on them and failure was inevitable.


Everyone pay close attention and learn this lesson well:

NEVER, EVER PUT ENGINE CLEANER INTO YOUR RIDE. NO MATTER WHAT.


I just wish I had done a little more research into this product and the effect it could have on my engine.

Learn from my mistake, friends. Learn from my mistake.

Last edited by Stump; Mar 29, 2005 at 03:58 PM.
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 03:54 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Stump
I just got off the phone with the guy from the shop. The news is not good.

Grand total for rebuilding my engine: $3531

$1362 for 21.2 hours of labor, plus $1850 for rebuilding my engine, plus taxes.

Estimated down time: 2 weeks


Rebuilding my engine (vs buying a rebuilt engine) involves cleaning and boring the block, new pistons, rings, crankshaft, rod bearings, main bearings, valves with a valve job, valve seals, valve springs, oil pump, necessary machining, and reassembly.

The guy at the shop said the same thing Dudebud said. Places like Jiffy Lube sell this engine cleaner crap and it is completely unecessary. It displaces oil from places in your engine (like rod bearings) that absolutely must have oil at all times. So when you run your engine with this stuff in it, even for only five minutes, you are basically running your engine for five minutes without oil. Even after adding the fresh oil back in afterwards, the damage was already done. It was only a matter of time before something happened. Add this to the fact that my rod bearings had 103000 miles on them and failure was inevitable.


Everyone pay close attention and learn this lesson well:

NEVER, EVER PUT ENGINE CLEANER INTO YOUR RIDE. NO MATTER WHAT.


I just wish I had done a little more research into this product and the effect it could have on my engine.

Learn from my mistake, friends. Learn from my mistake.
I just hate fixing your post but I just have to remember stay away from that crap engine cleaner
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 03:59 PM
  #23  
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No prob, bro. I fixed it in my post for ya.
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 04:23 PM
  #24  
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Out of curiosity, just how much "cleaner" went it and how much total fluid came out? (Quarts, liters...)
And under what name was the stuff sold?
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 04:39 PM
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Another option you have is to pull the engine yourself and take it to the shop where they can work on it. Then put the engine back in yourself.
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 05:05 PM
  #26  
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Ahh man.. what a bummer!!! I sincerely hope all works out well for you. After having read numerous posts on the pros and cons of additives, especially engine cleaners, it seems to me that it's more risky with older engines. Like many have already said, you just don't know what can get dislodged and then stuck somewhere.
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 05:16 PM
  #27  
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I do not know this seller. Buy at your own risk.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 05:39 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by <96 Runner>
I do not know this seller. Buy at your own risk.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW
That's the exact guy I bought my engine from. No problems, and it was cheaper for me to buy that engine, have it shipped to seattle from New York, than it would have been to buy it locally. The engine still runs with 25k on it. no problems
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 05:42 PM
  #29  
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Sweet!
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 06:00 PM
  #30  
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The guy at the shop said the same thing Dudebud said. Places like Jiffy Lube sell this engine cleaner crap and it is completely unecessary. It displaces oil from places in your engine (like rod bearings) that absolutely must have oil at all times. So when you run your engine with this stuff in it, even for only five minutes, you are basically running your engine for five minutes without oil. Even after adding the fresh oil back in afterwards, the damage was already done. It was only a matter of time before something happened. Add this to the fact that my rod bearings had 103000 miles on them and failure was inevitable.


Everyone pay close attention and learn this lesson well:

NEVER, EVER PUT ENGINE CLEANER INTO YOUR RIDE. NO MATTER WHAT.
If anyone is still interested in "cleaning" their engine a safer alternative may be to use a detergent such as "valvoline engine protector" which is mixed into the oil when changed. I have used this product on the last and current oil change with quite a few deposits coming out after I ran it in my engine for 3,000 miles...One of the reasons I'm running this is because my engine has high mileage and had a bad engine sludge with previous owner(my dad )

Some of these deposits could be from the sludge even after about 10K miles but hopefully I have removed most of the remaining sludge and another reason is the overall build up after 102K miles of running.

My .02 cents
Tom

Last edited by tomrunner; Mar 29, 2005 at 06:04 PM.
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 06:03 PM
  #31  
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I ran Auto RX through mine recently. It didn't do anything good or bad. Probably wasted $20. Oh well.
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 06:07 PM
  #32  
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I ran Auto RX through mine recently. It didn't do anything good or bad. Probably wasted $20. Oh well.
Valvoline engine protector is only 3-4 bucks and is meant to safely, slowly, continuouslly clean and protector your engine all the time...

It is only about half a quart and can be put in at every oil change with the lower price so I like the idea of added continuous protection.

Next oil change will be interesting...

Tom
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 06:26 PM
  #33  
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ATF will clean a motor too
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 06:28 PM
  #34  
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Check out this place:

http://www.orientengine.com

$1800 shipped.

I's running Auto-Rx right now and so far it's running better and mileage is up a tad.

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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 06:32 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by AgRunner06
Check out this place:

http://www.orientengine.com

$1800 shipped.

I's running Auto-Rx right now and so far it's running better and mileage is up a tad.

thats with a core
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 06:33 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by DudeBud
thats with a core
My bad. The eBay auction has a $550 core charge.
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 06:42 PM
  #37  
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well his motor only has 100k on it cylinders have to be in great shape why no just rering it and new bearings. i did not find a rering kit but here is a master kit http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...964749337&rd=1
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 07:26 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by 4RUNR
Out of curiosity, just how much "cleaner" went it and how much total fluid came out? (Quarts, liters...)
And under what name was the stuff sold?

It was a small, silver can. Maybe a quart? I don't know for sure as I threw the empty can away after the job. Total fluid out was a little more than five quarts and it was the darkest color black I've ever seen come out of an engine. I think it was called KN or KR Engine Flush. I'll have to go by AutoZone and take a look in order to tell you for sure.

Originally Posted by Robinhood150
Another option you have is to pull the engine yourself and take it to the shop where they can work on it. Then put the engine back in yourself.
I wish I had the resources to do that. Like I said, the valve cover gasket replacement was the biggest DIY job I've done. Pulling an engine myself is just bit out of my league.


I guess now with a new engine I can switch over to synthetic oil. Somehow, at this point in time, that still doesn't make me feel any better.

Last edited by Stump; Mar 29, 2005 at 07:30 PM.
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Stump
It was a small, silver can. Maybe a quart? I don't know for sure as I threw the empty can away after the job. Total fluid out was a little more than five quarts and it was the darkest color black I've ever seen come out of an engine. I think it was called KN or KR Engine Flush. I'll have to go by AutoZone and take a look in order to tell you for sure.



I wish I had the resources to do that. Like I said, the valve cover gasket replacement was the biggest DIY job I've done. Pulling an engine myself is just bit out of my league.


I guess now with a new engine I can switch over to synthetic oil. Somehow, at this point in time, that still doesn't make me feel any better.
In all honesty, when I replaced my 3.0 V-6 in my old truck, the biggest DIY job I did was probably putting on a 4 inch lift on it. I just took my time. It took me 3 months to finish it, but it got done, and it still works! If you have the time, and a spare vehicle, you should consider doing it yourself. I'd be glad to give you pointers along the way if you feel like it. It seems like a daunting task, but if you take it piece by piece, it isn't that hard.
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 07:40 PM
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Oh, and don't feel bad, I did the sea foam treatment to my engine where you suck it down the vacuum line, and that's how it happened to me. Like I told every one, it made it run like it had a brand new engine!
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