ravencr

I'm about to fab up the rest of my rear bumper, and I thought now would be a good time to go ahead and cut out the rear crossmember that holds the spare tire, so when I fab up my new gas tank everything fits. So, I may be doing this all at the same time, but I don't have a clue what material and special precautions are needed when designing a gas tank. So here's my specific questions:

1) Aluminum or Steel?
2) What thickness?
3) Any special coatings needed?

I plan to integrate the same fuel pump and connections that exist on the stock pump, and just extend the lines and electrical wires. I'm also going to have a separate gas tank skid, so the material I use for the gas tank won't have to be strong enough to withstand big hits. Anyone have any ideas or comments?

Chris

cruizin01

this is just a thought but you might take some time and roam around some yards to c if you can find one that you could make work then just go order ya new one. Im sure thats been thought of though.
I think the biggest obsticle would be getting your existing sending unit to work with a non-stock tank

BruceTS

What I was planning on doing was go down and get a stock tank complete from a salvage yard then with that pump assembly fabricate a stainless steel tank to fit underneath. As for my sending unit, it never worked properly from the day I bought it and I never could remember to bring it to the Stealership to fix. It has been very consistant to the point I know how much fuel is still in the tank, but I do reset my odometer after each fill up and watch my mileage too.

I had the day off and took a drive up to Marlin's 4x4 & Off-Road yesterday to inquire about having my 4-link done by them. We talked in depth about my tank relocation and ideas on link placement. I'll do a autocad layout of my design and have them do it when I can afford it, but before then I'll have my tank relocated. I showed them a 3-link layout that would work with the tank in the stock location, they seem to like my idea.

While I was there I also checked out his crawl boxes and somewhere in the discussion I said what the heck and told them to put a complete crawl box kit together. The shop closed for lunch and Marlin treated everyone to a free pizza! when we got back, Dave started doing the modifications to the parts I needed, then he decided to just assemble the whole t-case at the same time, as a christmas gift! So now I have a completely assembled MC09 to install.

bamachem

All you have to do to make an auxillary tank work is to mount it securely and attach two hosed to the OEM tank. One low on the sidewall of each tank and one to connect the tops of the tanks (as vents). This will allow gravity to balance the levels of the liquid in the auxillary tank with the level of the liquid in the OEM tank. (this is assuming that the tanks are of similar heights and are mounted so that they aresimilar elevations in relation to each other)

You shouldn't need a sending unit, fuel pump, or anything else. You will, however, have to cut into your OEM tank and into the new tank for the connections.

BruceTS

bamachem, he wants to relocate the tank from the side to the rear. This is what I'm in the middle of planning, so when I change the rear linkage to a converging 4-link it won't interfere with the tank in the stock location. I did come up with a 3-link that will work with the tank in the stock location.

bamachem

lol ok...

44Runner

I am still of the notion that the best solution is 2 seperate tanks. More of a PITA, but I think over all a better solution...

ravencr

Th stock tank will be removed completely, and a new tank will be located where the spare tire is. What do you mean by two tanks?

Chris

P.S. I don't want an auxilary tank. I'm looking to remove the stock tank so I can drastically increase my rear articulation.

Cebby

One of the vendors on Pirate is selling a 3 link kit. Not for 3rd Gen Runners, but I'm sure it could be adapted. I'll look for the thread I was reading the other day...

BruceTS

2 smaller tanks on both sides, but then you'll have to deal with the exaust system not getting too close to it either. If you go converging 4-link they still may have a clearance problem. It was another Idea that I was pondering. But it would be a lot more work and I'd rather have the open space to gain access to every thing with the tank in the back. The only worry is making a tank that doesn't rupture in a rear impact. Possibly adding a bladder or foam inserts.


C&R Motorsports is the vendor that is selling a 3 or 4-link kit, but I've tried calling them several times and e-mailing them, but I still haven't gotten a reply.

Cebby

Chris,

With a fuel injected fuel system, the tank would need to be pressure tested to ?? psi. Thought about fuel cells at all? I know they aren't legal everywhere for street use though.

I've heard that a "90's" Pathfinder tank will work between the rear framerails of a Runner. It may have been here even. You might want to search here, Wire and Pirate to see about other tanks that work. It would save you a bunch time and aggrevation...

BruceTS

Cebby, I know the one your talking about. Tin Benders I think, I don't like that particular design. What I'm trying to get away from is the panhard bar. The one I came up with is quite simple to fabricate and I may still go this route. I can easily fabricate the upper wish bone without removing any of my current hardware then make the rear diff. mount actually install it before cutting out my original linkage. then I can test it without the panhard bar, if all goes well then make the lower links. this way my geometry won't be affected at all and even keep my stock sway bar.

kyle_22r

i don't know why the tank would need to be pressure tested on an efi system -- i think the fuel pump pressurizes the fuel after it draws it out of the tank

Cebby

You know what Kyle, I think you are right. I was remembering about fuel line when I was talking to a dealer tech one time. The ol' memory is fuzzy these days. I think a fabbed tank still needs to be tested under pressure for pinhole leaks. I think about 10-15 psi for that.

kyle_22r

i don't think 10-15psi would exactly be rocket science, just run a good bead and don't burn through. easier said than done with aluminum, though

Napoleon047

Harry Wagner, the toyota mod over at 4x4wire, is using the gas tank, pump, etc. from a ford E250 van, located where the spare tire usually mounts, it fits between the framrails.

here is a pic:

link

Cebby

Link is giving me a 403 Forbidden error

ravencr

Good information guys! I'll be using the same fuel pump and assembly in the new tank, and I'm wondering if anyone knows what gauge aluminum I should use for the tank? And, I may end up using steel, but does it present any problems with corrosion versus the aluminum? Also, what gauge steel would I use?

Chris

ravencr

I was just doing some simple calculations and placing a tank back there could hold a lot more gas than the stock tank does. I just found this company on the net that makes custom aluminum fuel cells, so I may see what they come back with after I design it: http://www.aluminumfuelcell.com/index.html

Chris

jrallan26

Raven,

I would prefer aluminum over steel. Why? The corrosion factor. The one problem with welding aluminum it is very difficult and sniffing aluminum fumes are very toxic. So please if you are going to weld aluminum please use a smoke eater to take away the fumes from yourself.

I have been a certified welder for 10 years.