95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

help with removal of cv axle

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Old Oct 29, 2002 | 08:28 PM
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From: Minnesota
help with removal of cv axle

I am trying to remove my drivers side front cv axle to replace it with a rebuilt axle on my 91 4runner. I have the axle ready to pull, but I can't seem to fit it out in the space between the lower control arm and the diff tube plate. I have the a.d.d. hubs. Do I have to remove the whole hub? It looks like I could get it out if I could remove 2 bolt studs from the diff tube plate, but I can't get them out. Are they pressed in or welded? I have seen reference to removing them on other threads. Anybody have any help from past experience? My Toyota Haynes manual has absolutely no info on this procedure. Thanks
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Old Oct 29, 2002 | 08:45 PM
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From: Battle Ground, WA
Here is what I did with mine! It works pretty well. tho I havn't had to change my CV's on the trail (Knock on Wood)

Quick CV change


Matthew :alien:
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Old Oct 29, 2002 | 08:50 PM
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From: Seattle
It helps to unbolt the upper balljoint from the a-arm as well as the shock, that'll let you drop the lower arm further and should give you just enough room to get it out.
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Old Oct 31, 2002 | 09:35 PM
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From: Minnesota
Hey Thanks Shane- removing the upper ball joint and shock absorber was the ticket. Just the four nuts on top to release the ball joint. I didn't have to remove the hub, caliper, or steering connections. Just a tip to others- be sure to have support for the lower arm so the brake line doesn't get too much stress on it. I finished the left cv axle and will do the right side next. It will be a lot faster this time now that I know what to do. The vibration I had at 60mph is now gone after doing one side. Let that Minnesota snow fly!
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Old Nov 1, 2002 | 05:45 AM
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From: Georgia
Just a tip as to how I did mine was I jacked up the frame untill the tire lifted off the ground. Then I put a jackstand under the frame to hold it up. I removed the floorjack. I also disconnected the lower shock bolt. This had the a arms at full droop. I then put the floor jack under the a arm and jacked it up as needed to allow the proper clearence at the proper time. In this way i did not have to fool with the ball joints.
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