Help on Hitches
Aug 24, 2004 | 08:36 AM
#21
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From: Pittsburgh Pa
Originally Posted by BTOWN4RUNNER
Does your Runner have the tire underneath? I am concerned that a hitch won't fit with the tire underneath. Does it? Thanks...
I have a 92 also and installed a Class3 hitch with no problems.The hitch does not come in contact with the spare tire at all. If you want i can take some pics of underneith the rig. I got the hitch a few years ago from this site on ebay http://stores.ebay.com/Best-for-Less-Truck-Accessories
Last edited by FireFighter; Aug 24, 2004 at 08:45 AM.
Aug 24, 2004 | 09:41 AM
#22
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From: Boyertown, Pa
Originally Posted by FireFighter
BTOWN
I have a 92 also and installed a Class3 hitch with no problems.The hitch does not come in contact with the spare tire at all. If you want i can take some pics of underneith the rig. I got the hitch a few years ago from this site on ebay http://stores.ebay.com/Best-for-Less-Truck-Accessories
I have a 92 also and installed a Class3 hitch with no problems.The hitch does not come in contact with the spare tire at all. If you want i can take some pics of underneith the rig. I got the hitch a few years ago from this site on ebay http://stores.ebay.com/Best-for-Less-Truck-Accessories
Aug 26, 2004 | 06:10 AM
#27
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Posts: 11,199
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Originally Posted by BTOWN4RUNNER
Thanks alot for the pictures. I have pretty much decided on the DrawTite and just need to order it. Thanks again!
Aug 26, 2004 | 07:24 PM
#28
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Joined: Apr 2004
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From: SoCal
Originally Posted by yoitsmetom
I just installed a hitch on my 1990 4runner. It's made by Easylift the model #for mine was #1965, cost $139 and $20 for the wiring kit. Had to wire it myself, no plug in type kit available. Bolted hitch to frame, one hole was already there on each of the frame rails, had to drill one additional hole on each frame rail. Was easy to install and is totally hidden by the bumper except the reciever part. 500# tongue rating and 5000# tow.
To do the wiring, I had to get behind the interior side panels near the drivers side rear tail light. Had to probe wires to find the right ones, it was a bit time consuming.
I like it because it looks real clean with only the square reciever part showing and the hitch hidden under the truck.
If your truck has a plug type adapter available rather than the small box type adapter, go for the plug in type. Way easier. You need one or the other due to the 4 into 3 wiring deal with the separate yellow turn signals. Some vehicle use the same light for the brake and turn signal, which is easier, but probably won't apply for your toyota.
Good luck.
To do the wiring, I had to get behind the interior side panels near the drivers side rear tail light. Had to probe wires to find the right ones, it was a bit time consuming.
I like it because it looks real clean with only the square reciever part showing and the hitch hidden under the truck.
If your truck has a plug type adapter available rather than the small box type adapter, go for the plug in type. Way easier. You need one or the other due to the 4 into 3 wiring deal with the separate yellow turn signals. Some vehicle use the same light for the brake and turn signal, which is easier, but probably won't apply for your toyota.
Good luck.
Aug 27, 2004 | 07:54 AM
#29
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From: Boyertown, Pa
Originally Posted by Cebby
BTOWNRUNNER????? Is that really you? Now there's a blast from the past!!!
Sep 13, 2004 | 11:51 AM
#31
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From: Boyertown, Pa
Well, I decided on the DrawTite hitch. I went to the cheapest place (a camping store nonetheless) and ordered it. The model I was looking for was a 3500 lb. hitch. Well, they couldn't get it, but they could get the 5000 lb. hitch at no extra cost. That's a no brainer, so I ordered that and had it installed today. It looks great and seems to be as strong as a bull. I will get a pic soon. But the only problem that I have is when I am driving and hit a bump, I feel a clang under my feet. After some investigation, I find that this is caused by the exhaust pipe hitting the hitch when I hit a bump. When I am not moving there is an 1/8" or less gap between the two. Now my major concern is this. If that pipe gets too hot, over time it will either melt, bubble, blister or something the paint on the hitch and expose that metal, thus opening the door to rust. I was kicking around some ideas and know of a wrap that you can wrap around exhaust pipes ( I saw it on the World Great Biker Buildoff). I just don't know where to get this and what it would be called. I think that it would "absorb" the heat or at least protect the hitch and in the mean time take away the clang, because it would be a padding. Can anyone tell me what this material is called, if it will work and where I can get it (i.e., Napa, PepBoys, etc.) Thanks again.
Sep 13, 2004 | 08:59 PM
#33
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From: Pittsburgh Pa
I had the same problem with my hitch. I went to the local auto part store and got a universal tailpipe clamp for $3 I was able to drop the tailpipe about an inch
Last edited by FireFighter; Sep 13, 2004 at 09:01 PM.
Aug 8, 2005 | 12:02 PM
#34
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From: Boyertown, Pa
This hitch is taken off of my 4Runner and is for sale. Please check the classifieds or click HERE to see information. The hitch is in EXCELLENT condition and is a great deal for the price. Thank you. Any questions, please PM me or email me. Thanks!!!
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