midiwall

Hmmm... You shouldn't have those kind of problems from just installing the K&N.. For example, I don't think I bothered to reset the ECU when I did the deckplate mod and dropping an Amsoil filter - the net effect being a lot more airflow, like you'll get from the FIPK

Are you sure you hooked the MAF back up after putting on the K&N? The rough idle and such sounds like something big is going on.

You might want to hit up a Schucks or an AutoZone... They'll read the diagnostic codes for you (for free) which will tell you why the Check Engine light is on and that can help you figure out what's up. (Actually, I know that AutoZone will, I _think_ that Schucks will as well). AutoZone's aren't too popular in our area, but there's one up in Marysville.. Actually, check here:

http://www3.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...ayStoreLocator

ManyMods

M2C ...

1) I was getting 18.5 / 22 mpg consistantly with my '99 NA 4R Ltd.

2) I installed the Power Tower on my Chevy S10 4.3 V6 and noticed absolutely NO improvement ... just a faint whistling sound.
The only mods on that engine are K&N FIPK, Borla catback and engine tuning.

Obviously, something like this may not have th esame effect on all engines so there may be cases where the SOTP commentary may be inconsistant. :confused: The proof would really be on the Dyno.

This reminds me of a mfg that I hate with a passion so, as a public service I will say ... do not ever buy anything from ROCKY MOUNTAIN RADAR. They make jammers and detectors and have been ripping people off with their crap for years.

jayguy

The K&N has been on for a while, and there were no problems originally. The probs started when I put the TBS on, then again when I took it off. I'll double check all the connections, and if it's still running rough will try the local Schucks.

Jay

midiwall

Ahh... okay, I got confused in just what the situation was.

One thing that may help is something that happened to me when I put my PowerTower on, and I didn't notice it for WAY much longer than I care to admit (about 16 months).

To get it on, I had to pull a vacuum hose that attaches to the bottom of the throttle body. I forgot to hook it back up. I ended up with a rough idle, the check-engine on and a loud whistle. I just ignored the idle, and figured that the whistle was what everyone had talked about. I would have never though twice about it, but Dr. Z (from here) actually noticed a bare nipple in a picture I had posted online about his ISR mod!

Actually, this is how I know about AutoZone checking MIL codes. I had a nice list of them... Misfires on 5 of the 6 cylinders, flakey O2 sensor and something else if I remember right.

So, chalk one up to the newbie... I reconnected the hose, the idle flattened out and the _huge_ whistle went away. I cleared the codes on the ECU and life was grand.

It's probably worth a look to see if you might be up against the same thing. I promise I won't tell if you find a flapping hose. At least it wouldn't have taken you over a year to find it!


oh... a side note.. I understand that while pulling the EFI fuse may reset the ECU in terms of letting it recalibrate itself, it might NOT clear the codes which cause the light to come on. I ended up buying an OBD reader that allows me to clear the codes, so that's how I did mine.

You MIGHT be able to talk the Schuck's or AutoZone dude into doing it, the button is right there on the held-held readers. I tried to get the guy that read mine to clear 'em and he said "no". Toyota will do it, but usually tag you for $60 or so as a diagnostic fee.

You're in the Seattle area, right? Drop me an email (mark@midiwall.com) and if we can work out logistics, I'd be happy to help if I can.

Duffdog

OK GUYS, LETS TRY THIS ONE MORE TIME..... IM WRITING IN ALL CAPS SO THAT MAYBE EVERYBODY WILL REMEMBER....


THE EFI FUSE DOES NOT RESET THE FUEL TRIM SETTINGS!!!!!!!!!!!!

"PULLING THE EFI FUSE RESETS ONLY THE IDLE SPEED"


TO RESET THE LONG AND SHORT FUEL TRIM YOU NEED TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY FOR 10 SECONDS. IF YOU LOOK AT THE SCHEMATIC, THE POWER INPUT WIRES FOR THE ECU GO THROUGH THE EFI FUSE AND THE OBD FUSE AND IGN FUSE AND THROUGH THE GUAGE FUSE AND THROUGH THE "STA" FUSE.

if everyone is wondering why theyre having so much trouble tuning their engines with aftermarket computers and such, this is probably the reason-- i have a digital camera and the factory service manual pages in front of me, could someone please show me how to take a picture of page 72 and post it so that everyone can see what im talking about. I think everyone working with this engine should have the same schematics i do. I want to post pictures of all this stuff i do but am unsure of how to do it.

Tim

jayguy

mpulver was correct, it was the vacuum hose under the throttle body. Now that I know that, I'll put the TBS back on, and pull the battery cable to reset the computer, instead of the fuse. Then I'll see if it actually makes a difference. Oh, and I'm cutting the gaskets to full round, instead of leaving them D shaped.

Jay

midiwall

Wahoo! Good to hear Jay!


And thank you Tim... one day I'll remember that.

obxfishn

Oceanfront property for sale in Kentucky!!! Make you a good deal.

jayguy

Now that I fixed the problem I was having with my truck, I'd be more than happy to get a dyno run on it as is (K&N FIPK) then install the TBS and do it again. Heck, I'd even be willing to put the stock airbok back in and test that, to see what a difference the K&N makes also. WATRD mentioned renting a dyno for a day and doing his truck and other cars, too. Is that still an option? I'd be up to spending a day at a dyno shop testing my truck in various configurations. Heck, I'd even be willing to get an Amsoil filter or K&N to slip into the stock box, and compare them also. And maybe even do the deck plate mod, so we can try all kinds of configurations. Just don't want to kill the truck.

Unless the weather is absolutely gorgeous and the Duc's decide to fly somewhere, I am available whenever.

Jay

jayguy

Now that I fixed the problem I was having with my truck, I'd be more than happy to get a dyno run on it as is (K&N FIPK) then install the TBS and do it again. Heck, I'd even be willing to put the stock airbok back in and test that, to see what a difference the K&N makes also. WATRD mentioned renting a dyno for a day and doing his truck and other cars, too. Is that still an option? I'd be up to spending a day at a dyno shop testing my truck in various configurations. Heck, I'd even be willing to get an Amsoil filter or K&N to slip into the stock box, and compare them also. And maybe even do the deck plate mod, so we can try all kinds of configurations. Just don't want to kill the truck.

Unless the weather is absolutely gorgeous and the Duc's decide to fly somewhere, I am available whenever.

Jay

jayguy

Now that I fixed the problem I was having with my truck, I'd be more than happy to get a dyno run on it as is (K&N FIPK) then install the TBS and do it again. Heck, I'd even be willing to put the stock airbok back in and test that, to see what a difference the K&N makes also. WATRD mentioned renting a dyno for a day and doing his truck and other cars, too. Is that still an option? I'd be up to spending a day at a dyno shop testing my truck in various configurations. Heck, I'd even be willing to get an Amsoil filter or K&N to slip into the stock box, and compare them also. And maybe even do the deck plate mod, so we can try all kinds of configurations. Just don't want to kill the truck.

Unless the weather is absolutely gorgeous and the Duc's decide to fly somewhere, I am available whenever.

Jay

midiwall

If this happens, someone PLEASE start a new thread, or drop me a PM or somehow keep me in the loop. This could be a great way to get a dyno run on the (my) SMT-5 box.

I'd bet that we could get Dr. Z to roadtrip up here (from Portland) as well.

Zubaltec

Hopefully after this weekend I will dyno before and after the install of the power tower. The only mod to my runner now is Amsoil filter w/ a 5" hole in the box and a straight tube in place of the resonator box. Can't wait to see what this part does.

STEvil

Not that I mean to be dredging up an old thread, but some tech talk on how this thing works might be good so we can make them better?

My thinking is that they act somewhat like high-rise plenums and are allowing the air/fuel to mix better before being sucked through the intake valves... what may help more is if they used small electric fans to create the vortex and force the air/fuel to mix as it passes through the fan blades... maybe?

As to effectiveness, maybe it depends on CFM used which will be affected by engine displacement, cam timings, and etc? The restriction of a 5.7 trying to pull air/fuel through the TBI would be more than a 2.0L pulling through its setup, for example.. so that may increase travel time through the plenum for the lower displacement motors which are not fuel injected giving a similar effect as a tall/raised plenum?

Other than that, picked one up and tossed it on my '94 GMC YukonGT (5.7L TBI).. and that bell housing stud on the back which holds the fuel lines in place is a PITA to get to!!!

Oh and hi, first post

X-AWDriver

Those spacers don't work on any modern Toyota motor and many others that are direct port injection (injector is in the cylinder) meaning the air and fuel don't mix til they are in the cylinder thus making any swirling air a moot point. They simply don't work with this type of injection system and the gains on other injection systems are negligible.

STEvil

Yes, quite obvious they dont work on direct injection.

Negligible is debatable if it smooths out throttle response over the RPM range or smooths acceleration.

Going for my first drive since it was installed now, gotta go to town and get some cash to pay a bill

STEvil

Smoother throttle acceleration throughout RPM range.

Accelerates better at highway speeds.

Cold air has a noticeable performance effect now.



Only 200km on it so far, cant tell about fuel mileage yet.

X-AWDriver

I got better midrange acceleration with the deckplate mod and that cost almost nothing vs $80+ for a TBS. Independant dyno tests have shown nearly all these gizmos actually just drain your wallet,show me some real proof these do anything.

The ISR mod will smooth out acceleration and still will cost you less than half what a TBS does.

RacerX

I just ran into this thread and thought I might put my thoughts in... The TBS is not likely affect Hp very much but it can move the torque curve slightly lower which can make a noteworthy difference in the vehicles drivability. This is based on increasing the total length/volume of the intake manifold.

I would be curious to see a dyno to see if the torque curve or area under the curve changes noticeably as in each application there are lots of variables and you never know, 3-6" metal pipe may make very little difference or enough to justify the price, but then thats a whole new territory...

STEvil

RacerX - That was my thinking, much like the high-rise plenums in old hotrods.

X-AWDriver - I havent seen any Dyno results yet, none were posted into this thread after multiple requests and they apparently dont exist on google either (I poked around to see if I could link them here for others to see).

I just passed 400km with it installed but I need to do the valves on my motor so I dont think I can really reliably say its helping or not, just that its better so far, pulls hills better thats for sure (have two on the way to work, one's enough to drop most vehicles to 50kph unless you've got it matted - gravel).

Never going to use quakerstate oil again