wow thats deff baddaasss^^^ nice rigg

 

i think the key is spray on, if you are gonna do it. all the roller crap has a hideous texture. the sprayed on like the green one that was posted looks a lot better. just another .2 cents.

 

Disclosure: Look at avatar closely.

We do this type of job with LINE-X all the time, including color matches. The off-roaders and circle track guys say it holds up very well.

Obviously, I am biased, however the difference between what we do and some of the others is because LINE-X is sprayed on hot and drys in 3 to 5 seconds, you don't get the "runs" you may with some others. The result is it can be put on no mater the orientation.

Depending on what is done, it takes a little longer that the average bed because, as with everything, 80% of the job is prep.

As to the chrome issue, grinding or sanding helps, but to make it work the best you need to sandblast it then use the proper primer. The product needs something to adhere to.

 

psraff-
I think you should go for it, but like stated before, it's all in the prep, both the 4runners here look nice with the bumpers/lower doors done up, and it wont look totally rediculous on yours because it's already black, but yeah, the hood is a little much

^^ I am just curious, but do you know if the linex is a "chemical adhesion" or a "mechanical adhesion"? or a little of both? obviously it wont stick to anything that still has a smooth or glossy finish, but does it actually "bond" with the primer that you guys spray on before? what do you guys recommend for cleaning it to get the shine back? I was told to use "oxyclean" and that would bring back the shine, but I have been too lazy to try it, just looking for another opinion

I can vouch for linex, as I had my bed done and it's held up plenty nice, and I actually saw a truck that had been rear ended, the bed was done in linex, and it was crumpled all to hell, but none of the linex had torn or peeled back at all, even where the metal bed floor was actually torn and still it wasn't coming off the rough edges

 

First, moderators keep me in check if this starts to get to commercial.

First, it is kinda both, however no VOCs, so it would lean more to the mechanical. How is that for riding the fence.

It does need some sort of base coat to adhere to and it will pretty much adhere to any clean substrate with the exceptions of plastics, however some customers have thrown caution to the wind and had us apply it to fender flares with our disclaimer and had it work well, others not so well.

Part of the concern with plastics is when the product hits the service, it is at about 150 degrees. Plastics can get a mind of their own when working with those temperatures.

Wood, most if not all metals, fiberglass, etc work very well, but each substrate has it's own methods we use and all include surface prep and using either the existing primer or one of the ones we provide. Glossy is be no means a requirement. My deck at the house has the steps and border done in LINE_X black on the steps and white on the border. Yes, color matching can be done, so chip guards won't look to out of place but then again, black goes with everything.

Not sure who recommended oxyclean, I'll have to experiment with that. Usually we just recommend power washing (car wash) if it gets really dirty as LINE-X does not have the chalking problem and less fade then some of the other products. There is also a relatively new product out that toughens the bed up and has no fade as well as retains the shine which I will tell you about if you PM me or you can contact your local dealer.

I had LINE-X for 5 years before opening my doors. I was sold on it because of my heavy involvement in scouts. With the abuse the boys gave, the bed still looked less then a year old the day we opened.

 

It depends on your dealer, but yes, they can color match it.

 

Alright... I talked to a few places around here today and this is what I've got. I'm going to hold off on the hood. I'm not doing that. One guy is up on the slope and can't do anything till spring (which is fine because I was going to do it around that time anyway most likely). But he quoted me starting $575 just for the rockers..... I forgot to ask what kind he sprays.

Another place uses a product called "Full Metal Jacket" (anyone heard of it?). I haven't had a chance to look into it. But there is also a "Top Coat" available with it that "Our new Polymeric Topcoat offers enhanced color stability and gloss retention."

He said the rockers and the back bumper $400-600 (another reason to wait till spring time so I can take the running boards off myself and the bumper to get it closer to the 400 mark. As for the Chrome, yes it can be coated, but just like paint, they rough it up first for the spray to adher to it.

Now on a side note... If you followed this thread I was wondering if I would replace the plastic trim piece on the top of my bumper (I found a place that can get it for $140). The answer is YES!!! Because as it curls up on each end to cover the two side pieces of the bumper there's nothing behind it. If I leave the trim off, the two side pieces of the bumper would have a large (roughly 2"x3") hole facing each other.

How do those prices match you guys down there in the lower 48? As for "Full Metal Jacket, if anyone wants I can scan the flyer that I grabbed from then and post it for people to look at. Is there really a difference between Line-X, Rhinoliner, and now this Full Metal Jacket? I can't find Line-X around here, Rhinoliner guy is too far away... I saw a truck in the body shop with this Full Metal Jacket on it and it looks good. One thing I noticed is the texture isn't as extreem as others I've seen. I don't know if that's just the guy who did it, or the product itself, but I liked the looks of it.

 

Here is my experience...

I am using ameriguard and not only is it almost the same as Line-x but it has more "agents" built in that keep it from fading. I am not bashing Line-x because the stuff looks just as good, but I was sold on ameriguard because the guy at the place is so nice and down the street the Line-x guy is an ass. I paid 400 for the rockers and they have been sprayed 4 years ago!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Everything else was done this summer! This stuff is amazing at how it stays deep black and does not fade! Ameriguard can color match any dealer paint code. It goes on at 115oF and does not have any trouble with plastics. I can post more pics that are closer, but if you look on my photobucket account you can see that my bushwacker fender flares are actually sprayed to the fender of the truck because I was worried about the fender flares rubbing and rusting the paint behind it. Plus it is waterproof now! Like Baloo said; the difference with Line-x and Ameriguard as compared to the other guys, the "hot" sprayed in liners dry in about 3 to 5 seconds and then it is ready for complete destruction! I took a knife to my door to show a bunch of people how tuff this stuff was, and it did not leave a mark!

As for cleaning... Since this is a rubber like compound, I go to my local car wash and use the tire cleaner spray to clean the road grime and the little stuff that you cant see, and it brings back that rich glitter effect that it had the second it was sprayed!

When you spray your front bumper you would think that all the bug splatter or mud would stick there and not come off, but actually this stuff acts as a teflon, you save a bunch of time at the car wash because the mud and bugs just fly right off of your truck!

 

I have had my rockers done by an Oregon company called Arma Coatings..I love the way it turned out..It keeps my rockers from getting sand blasted when going over sanded roads on my local mountain passes..

 

if you look, my whole truck is done in grizzly grip, i found them in the internet. i like it

 

Does anyone have a link to a DIY rhinoliner type spray material?

 

Just google them. As for Duplacolor, they have the roll on \ spray on (with air compressor) and for the fine detail work, they have spray cans as well.

 

yeah i just found the duplicolor($7.99) and that should work for me, i will be using it to cover my chrome nerf bars

 

I love the look of that 4runner with the hood line-xed and also the look of the rocker panels on that truck. Im planning on eventually line-xing my sliders and front and rear tube bumpers as well as the lower rocker panel.

 

My 98 4runner (non-limited, SR5, just a plain-jane 4Runner) had painted metal bumpers. I bought it from my dealership, after they had replaced the front bumper due to minor damage before i purchased it. Well, being a used car dealership, they replaced the OEM bumper with a "crash replacement" bumper with a quick spray job from an outside body shop. After less than a year, the front bumper was chipping so bad, that it looked hideous. I took both the front and 3 piece rear bumper off and dropped them off at the Line-X place. They sprayed them black for me. I have to say, it looks pretty darn good. It was kinda expensive, I think $175 for all 4 pieces. They do have a selection of colors, but I wanted it black anyway. I don't think that i would do more than the bumpers though.

And my only advice for getting them professionally done is to use old bolts or something in all of the threaded holes, otherwise, you'll be tapping all of them out after you get them back. Thats what took me the longest to do after i got them back.

I took a few pics of my dirty-azz truck. I hoping to feel better enough to clean it here sooner or later. Let me know what you think

 

i used the spray on duplicolor on my truck:





close up of the texture, pretty smooth. i'll be doing my roof and hood soon too.

 

That looks just like my bed, (with the fade and everything) I am going to try the "oxyclean" or whatever to get the shine back, other than that, I might try using a tire spray that has the "uv protectants" or whater they're called to get it darker and hope it stays that way.

That's total bs that the guy was too lazy to plug the threaded holes, when I had my bed done, they just put rolled-up paper towels or something in there so that when they are done they can just cut around the edges and pull the paper out, heck the guy even replaced all the screws in my tailgate panel (half were missing anyways) with nice stainless ones without charging

 

Yeah i was thinking the same thing about the threaded holes. I wish they would have told me, i would have done something about it before i dropped them off.

And as for the faded look, it'll come back when i actually wash it. It seems to fade like the rest of the black plastic, and if it doesn't come back with just a wash, I'll either apply tire shine, or Mother's Back to Black. For tire shine, I use the Meguiar's Hot Shine. That works well.

But for now, the bumpers blend right in with the rest of the dirty truck. Need to get a water source out to my garage so i can wash cars and trucks in colder weather.

 

i didnt bother reading this entire thread, but have you thought about "Clear Bra"? My brother owns a window tinting business and he also does clear bra for on hoods, or anywhere on a vehicle for that matter. Obviously its clear and you cant even see the slight line unless you know what your looking for.

Just a suggestion. I plan on rhinolining my sliders, rear bumper, and the rocker panels on mine, but ill have him clear bra the hood (like the bugshield) instead.