digginin

Hi, I'm new to the forum and hope some of you can answer some questions. Im looking at a very clean and well maintained 97 4runner(very little to no rust) w/233K. Has a factory elocker in the rear and a turbo. flowmaster exhaust, 3 inch lift w/new 33's. 6K obo.

I'm not too knowledgeable about the 4runner line so hopefully some experts can chime in. i know the 96-02 4runners with the 5vz are good(which it has), and to be weary of rot. but what about everything else. Anything to watch for besides the obvious(noise, leaks, rot, etc...)? or concerning the elocker or turbo?

Thanks in advance for any info you can share.

fierohink

There are a few key issues with 3rd gen 4runners. Some have a frame rust issue. You can google for pictures. Also check for a new radiator and google "toyota pink milkshake"The e-locker is a nice feature, but really how many times are you going off-road in low-range in a stock truck? I don't recall the 5VZ having a turbo option. There was a supercharger sold for the Tacomas, which a lot of people would buy and add to the 4runner. Any type of forced induction, after market, is a dicey proposition. Stand alone fuel systems, too much boost, lean running, etc. can all lead to significant failures if not properly designed.

The real question is is the price right?

Malcolm99

The e-locker is essential and makes the truck, it also guarantees that you get a better gear ratio for bigger tires it is running, 33" is maxed out size even with Boost and 4.30 ratio, 1 wire grounded and you can use the locker in 2wd(great for tight turns or doughnuts), 4H with locker(great for not getting stuck), nobody uses 4L unless your climbing or descending rough terrain. I would do a compression test to see if the turbo or SC has done any damage, if your running boost on an Auto you need quicker engagement shifts especially with 33" tires, so a modified valve body should be installed if you plan on driving like a hooligan at any time. Timing belt, Lower Ball joints, PS rack bushings, Rad, rear diff housing rot, frame and body rust, rear axle seal leaks are areas of concern.

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

It's got the factory SC find out of the nose cone has been replaced, it likes to leak oil leading to failure.
also find out if the timing belt has been replaced. Don't remember if it's a replace every 60 or 90k item

habanero

Timing belt interval every 60,000 but same parts as the later 90,000 interval 3rd gens with the exception of the crank bolt and its torque that went from 185 to 217 ft lbs- which is now the recommended torque spec for the early 3rd gens as well. In other words a possible point for negotiation but I'd be comfortable if it had more than 60,000 on it, especially if the water pump was changed out too and oe or oem parts were used.

It doesn't matter either way as far as buying the truck but ask if it got the Tundra Brake Upgrade (a good thing) or is it still rolling on the originals? If the TBU it'd be nice for you to know if 199 or 231mm brakes for later pad replacement and less head scratching.

Malcolm99

I'm pretty sure the Timing belt change interval is 90,000mi, and I have owned a few over 150,000mi & over 10 years old and showing no signs of cracking or wear, these motors are non-interference and the T-belt is very wide in comparison to all others I've changed, most put 120,000mi instead and change just incase, I'm a firm believer in sticking to the maintenance schedule, My Eclipse is a 60,000mi change interval because it is high revving interference motor, but like I said these belts on the 5vz-fe are tough, I have never seen 1 broken from normal wear or neglect. I know the Lexus dealer that I bought my 99' from a few years ago had 86,000mi on it and they said they just changed the T-belt on schedule.