What "connector" are you talking about?

 

The ones you just replaced.

The nut that connects to the lower control arm and disconnect just keeps turning and refuses to come off.

Am I doing something wrong or is it just difficult?

 

Check out the link that I posted in my first post (towards the bottom). You'll need an allen wrench or something like a 22 or 24mm wrench.

 

Thank you.

Gonna Go Outside and Try it now!!

 

This is what I get from buying a 4Runner from the North....

MAJOR RUST!!!!!!

So I tried everything, after soaking it in WD40...

It refuses to move....

So, I am going to talk to a friends who's neighbor is a mechanic (the guy worked on my olds when it died) and see if he can get it off!!

Hopefully I can get tehre by at least monday or something....

 

You should have it soak overnight. If that still doesn't work, you can just cut it off. Also, if you have a torque wrench or a cheater bar, that'll help a ton.

 

I can let it soak as much as possible (got some issues to take care of)

I am strongly considering just gutting it off, it so badly rusted I'm suprrised I coouldn't just hammer the thing off.....

Torque Wrench i have heard of , cheater bar? Thats a whole new tool to me.

Thanks for the help!!

 

I'm sorry, I didn't mean a torque wrench--I meant to say a breaker bar. Cheater bar is pretty much a pipe that you stick onto the end of a wrench so that you've got more leverage. I have an 18" breaker bar that comes in very handy, especially on those rusted parts.

 

cheater bars are the best thing ever.

 

Okay,
Now is a breaker bar something like a cheater bar, or something completly different?
And can I buy it easily?
If so how much?
New tools mean new things for me to learn.
But always willing..
I wanna be able to work on the 4Runner myself instead of having to ask a mechanic to do it.
And I also need to build up my tool set....

Thanks!!

 

Cheater bars might be free--all it is, is a steel pipe that will fit snugly onto your wrench/ratchet. The breaker I bought is a Craftsman from Sears and cost about $18 or so. One of the best tools I've got in my toolbox.

 

Ah.
I see now.
Well I will def be looking into it.
It is just such a freakin difficult part to get off...

 

Yotafun,
I just replaced my endlinks with new factory ones today ($60 each at the dealer). Did this at the same time while installing the new poly sway bar bushings from Wheeler's.

The trick for the end links is to use a 5mm (I believe) hex socket and a 17mm wrench for the actual nut. The hex socket fits into the stud and prevents it from turning while you lossen the 17mm nut.

Hope that helps!

Andreas

 

I tired....
But, unfortunetly all the rust made the opening strip...
So now it's just a hug silver hole (all metal now shaved away)
And nothing to grip on....

 

PAY DAY!!!!
I made my order!!!
Can't wait to get them!!!
Now if I can just pry off the old disconnects.......

Thanks!!!

 

Did you try using a 22mm (I think?) wrench on the other side? I can see it'd be really easy to strip that allen key, but the wrench should hold. If not---blow torch.

 

Vice-Grps may fit in there as well to hold the two flat sides.

Andreas