For my 96 2ND Generation 3.4L 4runner...

I recently ordered a FLX-210 radiator cooling fan and was wondering exactly where I will need to install the + end to the ignition so it will shut off when the key is out.

I also will kneed to know exactly how to wire the A/C together (more importantly where it is??) with the fan and any other wiring will need to be done.

I've already read lots of info on this website about the FLX-210 fan and the help is greatly appreciated.

THANKS
tomrunner

THE FAN SHOULD BE DELIVERED BY MONDAY

 

I just bought the 220 model (basicly the 210 without the controller) and the VSC - variable speed controller. I havn't installed it yet so I don't have any advice but here's a bump.

 

i installed FAL in my 99 about a month and a half ago.

it was my first major electrical job, but i found a great tip on this site for the A/C connection.

instead of hooking directly to the a/c pump, go to autozone (or any auto store) and look for a fuse tap..thing. its basically something that plugs into a mini-fuse outlet, and splits it into two outlets and has a wire coming out. plug this into the A/C fuse in the fuse box under the hood. then connect a wire to it and run it to the fan control unit. it's a lot easier and works great.

heres a pic - http://www.dragoncurve.com/khang/4runner/fan_ac.jpg

^(thanks to Khang Trang for that a/c tip)

as for connecting to an ignition pwr source, i didn't do this. but i did connect a generic toggle switch so if the fan is still running when i turn the truck off, i can turn it off manually.

PY explains a great way to wire up a switch if you're interested, scroll to the bottom of this thread - https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...-a-lite+switch

that should explain how to connect a switch. i used a SPDT and it works great. im pretty sure you shouldnt use one with a light in it, i remember people warning against that.

one more thing you may want is to connect a indicator light to the + wire that goes into the fans. this way, the light will light up when your fans are recieving power, making life MUCH easier.

alright, hope this helps, i only wish i had a digital camera to show you what i mean.

 

Garrett1478...
I think I would rather go the route of mounting it into the ignition so I never have to worry about it being on when the key is out but I will probably use your other technique with the 3-way fuse connection..If thats what it is.?.

Anybody else use the ignition method that could tell me how to go that route so the fan cannot run when key is out.

THANKS FOR THE HELP
tomrunner

 

I would also like to add that you may want to run a switch when you tap into the AC clutch signal (actuator). Reason being is that there is no need to have the fans running once you are under way, and the AC will make this happen, reducing efficiency and power. So on road trips I switch the fans off (in regards to the AC only, the thermoswitch is still retained).

I highly advise tapping into the AC wire, which runs behind the timing belt cover in addition to the ignition source you are seeking. I ran without the AC hook-up for a while and the AC did not like it. It would not get cool until I started moving. Sitting at a light in the summer heat was horrible!

I had the same problem trying to seek an ignition source. I finally gave up. The fans never run more than 15 seconds after parking, even in 120 degree heat.

 

as i dont have a camera, heres my best attempt. but really, if you just browse the electrical section of an auto parts store, you should recognize it. i was pretty confused too until i finallly saw it in the store.

heres my 'picture' -

 

after reading Christian's post, i agree with him. the way i did it, the fans come on with the a/c even when the switch is in the OFF position. it really isnt necessary to have the fans on when moving, only when idling, like at a light, and there is a reduction in power when the fans are on. im thinking i may redo my setup to make the OFF position actually OFF no matter what, or run a wire to the a/c clutch.

 

The AC clutch wire was really easy to tap in to. I highly advise it.

 

Mine runs by thermostat, and is hooked up to the A/C clutch. I also wired a switch to manually kill it and another to manually turn it on. I burnt up a PCB that all the wires come into once and started overheating, so I ran an indicator light to the + wire going to the fan motor to be sure its on. In the summer down here, it runs pretty much nonstop unless I kill it on highway trips.

 

Best way to have the fan turn off when the ignition is off is to use a high current relay.
They are very simple to hook up (should be set up like the second fan at the bottom):



You can also see it in this diagram here:
http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/1020.pdf

I used one for my DRLs as well so this setup is reliable and can be used with high current.
DO NOT jyst tap into an ignition source to power a high current device like a cooling fan (power should be straight from battery).

 

Christian

Where do you have your thermal probe installed?

Are the fans controlled seperatly.(one off a/c and one off cooling probe/FLX controll unit)?

Thanks
tomrunner

 

if you'd like to wire up a switch to control your fans, and be able to have the a/c on without the fans on, i'm almost positive this is how it would be done:

get a Dual Pole Dual Throw switch (DPDT) it has 6 terminals


M<----| o o | (empty)
12V-->| o o | <--A/C Clutch
+ <----| o o | ---> C

maybe a little crooked, but you get the idea (i hope). the two poles get power from the battery and a/c clutch, and the throws (the top 2 and the bottom 2) go to the M (for constant ON) and + and C (for AUTO). this way, the fans will be OFF in the OFF position, regardless of the a/c (the way it should be).

 

My thermo probe is in the lower rad hose. Be sure to use 2 clamps or it will leak, trust me. I have had mine for over a year with no leaks after the two clamps.

No, both fans or none, they don't operate independently. Another reason to do the switch is because your AC kicks on with your defroster, and I see no point in having fans going during the winter when the defroster is needed. Ya know?

 

I recieved my new cooling fan today and I connected all the wiring except for the A/C relay and a 2ND positive source.

Question: does there have to be 2 positive sources into the control box like the manual says (connection b and connection +) along with the A/C relay?

I started the engine and drove around for quite some time with no A/C relay and 2ND postive source (one connnected to b then + to see if it would make a difference) and the temp. sensor in the instrument cluster never went hire than it every has but the fan never turned on.ever.

I tried adjusting the thermostat to it's lowest position but it still never turned on at all.

I will connect my A/C relay tommorow and then the 2ND positive source if that is actually needed.

Thanks guys for all the help
tomrunner

 

If the truck was at or near operating temp (or warm for that matter), then something is wrong. I can ALWAYS get my fans to kick on by rotating the thermo-probe adjustment knob towards the "-" mark. In fact, I don't even have to go all the way before the fans will kick on.

Were you testing this with the truck warm (at least)?

 

i have my probe in the rad fins like the directions say but my fan still wont kick on unless i send power to the manual switch terminal. it runs then so at least i can confirm that the fan is getting power from the battery. and the fan is hooked to the controller properly. i have the "remote" line tied into the fuse for the main power for now and it still wont come on. even after driving for an hour, it wont come on. im wondering if its the low placement of the probe in the radiator. could i place the probe in the rad hose to try and get a hotter temp? could that part of my radiator be clogged? im stumped. thanks guys.


EDIT: i was looking at the wiring diagram backwards... it works like a champ now