so what i understand from this thread is that i do not need a spring? i can drive it with no spring at all?

 

I think you still need some sort of return spring, either the stock or Unhappy's solution

 

from what they say above the srock was not a return spring, and you do not need one...i took out my stock unit and put the spring in, and the spring hits the lower bar where it goes through, and whenthe pettle is fully compressed the thing on the pedal hits the spring and moves it makeing a noise and u can feel friction

 

Unhappy wrote
As seen here I've found a permanent solution to the dumb ass PLASTIC clutch pedal return bushing.

Go to True Value hardware, and pay $1.60 for a #70 spring. Also acceptable is a Toyota brake pedal return spring.

He mentions a return spring (I expect we are still talking about this spring?) or did you chance another spring?

 

we are talking about the same spring...i got the one from toyota, but it catches on stuff so i took it out, i love having no spring there, it is much easier to shift and it feels like i have more control of the shifting

 

jared,

re-read the thread again. you missed alot of things that address your questions.

bob

 

i have read it several times.......i was jsut making sure that some of them are not using any spring stock or not still, and if it still works

 

this si what im talking about..he removed the spring all together

 

well i can see why youre confused but unhappy was talkinga bout testing it, not as a permanent solution unless you like that sloppy feel.

bob

 

The spring in question is the pedal return spring. In the 3rd gens, this is a coil spring used in a torsion manner. In my 1st gen, it was a coil spring used in a linear manner.

Currently, I have no pedal return spring whatsoever and am very pleased with the clutch operation. There are two other springs in the system, the clutch pressure plate (BIG spring), and the small spring inside the clutch master cylinder which keeps hydraulic pressure off the line. Come to find out, this little spring inside the clutch master holds the pedal up just fine.

The only drawback here is that you no longer get help from the torsion spring to push the pedal down. If you look at the photos, or under the dash, you will see a lever arm which the torsion spring acts upon, and depending on where this lever is relative to the axle to which it is attached, the torsion spring pushes the pedal both up and down.

 

thank you very much, this is how mine is setup right now...why didnt anytone know what i was talking about...BTW i love this feeling way more than before

 

Same here. The non-linear feeling of the torsion spring blows, IMO.

 

so u have no springs up there correct???? as in the brake spring or torstion, just the springs that are in the tranny/clutch? so non on the pedal?

 

Correct. There is no spring on my clutch pedal arm.

 

wow I am baffled! hmm... might be worth a try. I there a chance that the little spring in the master clutch cylinder blows with the added wear?

 

In its released state, the pedal is resting on its upper stop. As long as the pedal reaches this stop, the tension/compression of the master cylinder spring remains the same as before.

So, no. There is no added wear on the clutch master cylinder spring, since the piston is pushed back as far as the pedal stop will allow, regardless of whether or not there is an actual pedal return spring in place.

 

yep it works great...except the squeek is still there but in a different place..now it is where the clutch is in the tanny...nothing to do with the pedal. you know how there is a rubber boot and a metal arm for the clutch is in it...welll thats where mine is squeeking now...can i put wd40 in the hole for the clutch or what?????? its getting annyoing

 

ah I had that problem too. 96runner used a PAM cooking spray on the level that goes into the clutch housing and it removed the squeak. I tried WD40 but it didn't last long. Then I used a little bit of lithium grease on the spring that sits arm in there and on the slave piston. Thats has cured it for now.
I still would like a better shift though, I feel like the clutch is slow to disengage or the syncros are not working well as I can't shift gear quickly. Maybe there is bigger problems with the slave cylinder.

 

WD40 isn't good for much of anything, even less as a lubricant. A short term fix for the fork squeak is to use spray lithium grease.

Long term solution is to have the throwout bearing and clutch fork pivot points properly greased with hi-temp urea grease. From what I understand, Toyota failed to do this on many manual trannies. Mine squeaks from time to time, but I will wait until the clutch wears out, then do it right.

 

so its allright to spray stuff into the hole for the tanny/clutch area?