FIXED!! Stupid PLASTIC clutch pedal bushing
09-29-2004, 05:48 PM
#83
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Originally Posted by Jared Ajlouny
so what i understand from this thread is that i do not need a spring? i can drive it with no spring at all?
09-29-2004, 06:07 PM
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Unhappy wrote
As seen here I've found a permanent solution to the dumb ass PLASTIC clutch pedal return bushing.
Go to True Value hardware, and pay $1.60 for a #70 spring. Also acceptable is a Toyota brake pedal return spring.
He mentions a return spring (I expect we are still talking about this spring?) or did you chance another spring?
As seen here I've found a permanent solution to the dumb ass PLASTIC clutch pedal return bushing.
Go to True Value hardware, and pay $1.60 for a #70 spring. Also acceptable is a Toyota brake pedal return spring.
He mentions a return spring (I expect we are still talking about this spring?) or did you chance another spring?
09-29-2004, 06:26 PM
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we are talking about the same spring...i got the one from toyota, but it catches on stuff so i took it out, i love having no spring there, it is much easier to shift and it feels like i have more control of the shifting
09-29-2004, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Unhappy99
Yes, the clutch pedal will always return, regardless of clutch wear. Just like your brake pedal returns, regardless of pad wear.
The torsion spring works in a compound manner, as a helper when pushed in, and as a final pedal return when let off. If you look at the lever arm and its rotation around the pedal axis, you will see it serves both purposes.
There is a piston return spring inside the clutch master cylinder as well. A few weeks ago, I removed my #70 linear pedal return spring to see if the pedal would stay up using only the master cylinder sping....It does. The cruise control switch hasn't tripped yet, and pedal pressure is a bit lighter without the linear return spring.
So, those of you who have done this mod, feel free to remove the linear return spring as well and test. Pedal feel is a bit sloppy until the clutch diaphram spring is engaged, but it works just fine.
The torsion spring works in a compound manner, as a helper when pushed in, and as a final pedal return when let off. If you look at the lever arm and its rotation around the pedal axis, you will see it serves both purposes.
There is a piston return spring inside the clutch master cylinder as well. A few weeks ago, I removed my #70 linear pedal return spring to see if the pedal would stay up using only the master cylinder sping....It does. The cruise control switch hasn't tripped yet, and pedal pressure is a bit lighter without the linear return spring.
So, those of you who have done this mod, feel free to remove the linear return spring as well and test. Pedal feel is a bit sloppy until the clutch diaphram spring is engaged, but it works just fine.
09-29-2004, 07:25 PM
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The spring in question is the pedal return spring. In the 3rd gens, this is a coil spring used in a torsion manner. In my 1st gen, it was a coil spring used in a linear manner.
Currently, I have no pedal return spring whatsoever and am very pleased with the clutch operation. There are two other springs in the system, the clutch pressure plate (BIG spring), and the small spring inside the clutch master cylinder which keeps hydraulic pressure off the line. Come to find out, this little spring inside the clutch master holds the pedal up just fine.
The only drawback here is that you no longer get help from the torsion spring to push the pedal down. If you look at the photos, or under the dash, you will see a lever arm which the torsion spring acts upon, and depending on where this lever is relative to the axle to which it is attached, the torsion spring pushes the pedal both up and down.
Currently, I have no pedal return spring whatsoever and am very pleased with the clutch operation. There are two other springs in the system, the clutch pressure plate (BIG spring), and the small spring inside the clutch master cylinder which keeps hydraulic pressure off the line. Come to find out, this little spring inside the clutch master holds the pedal up just fine.
The only drawback here is that you no longer get help from the torsion spring to push the pedal down. If you look at the photos, or under the dash, you will see a lever arm which the torsion spring acts upon, and depending on where this lever is relative to the axle to which it is attached, the torsion spring pushes the pedal both up and down.
09-29-2004, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Unhappy99
The spring in question is the pedal return spring. In the 3rd gens, this is a coil spring used in a torsion manner. In my 1st gen, it was a coil spring used in a linear manner.
Currently, I have no pedal return spring whatsoever and am very pleased with the clutch operation. There are two other springs in the system, the clutch pressure plate (BIG spring), and the small spring inside the clutch master cylinder which keeps hydraulic pressure off the line. Come to find out, this little spring inside the clutch master holds the pedal up just fine.
The only drawback here is that you no longer get help from the torsion spring to push the pedal down. If you look at the photos, or under the dash, you will see a lever arm which the torsion spring acts upon, and depending on where this lever is relative to the axle to which it is attached, the torsion spring pushes the pedal both up and down.
Currently, I have no pedal return spring whatsoever and am very pleased with the clutch operation. There are two other springs in the system, the clutch pressure plate (BIG spring), and the small spring inside the clutch master cylinder which keeps hydraulic pressure off the line. Come to find out, this little spring inside the clutch master holds the pedal up just fine.
The only drawback here is that you no longer get help from the torsion spring to push the pedal down. If you look at the photos, or under the dash, you will see a lever arm which the torsion spring acts upon, and depending on where this lever is relative to the axle to which it is attached, the torsion spring pushes the pedal both up and down.
09-29-2004, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Unhappy99
Same here. The non-linear feeling of the torsion spring blows, IMO.
09-30-2004, 09:36 AM
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In its released state, the pedal is resting on its upper stop. As long as the pedal reaches this stop, the tension/compression of the master cylinder spring remains the same as before.
So, no. There is no added wear on the clutch master cylinder spring, since the piston is pushed back as far as the pedal stop will allow, regardless of whether or not there is an actual pedal return spring in place.
So, no. There is no added wear on the clutch master cylinder spring, since the piston is pushed back as far as the pedal stop will allow, regardless of whether or not there is an actual pedal return spring in place.
09-30-2004, 10:12 AM
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yep it works great...except the squeek is still there but in a different place..now it is where the clutch is in the tanny...nothing to do with the pedal. you know how there is a rubber boot and a metal arm for the clutch is in it...welll thats where mine is squeeking now...can i put wd40 in the hole for the clutch or what?????? its getting annyoing
09-30-2004, 11:44 AM
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ah I had that problem too. 96runner used a PAM cooking spray on the level that goes into the clutch housing and it removed the squeak. I tried WD40 but it didn't last long. Then I used a little bit of lithium grease on the spring that sits arm in there and on the slave piston. Thats has cured it for now.
I still would like a better shift though, I feel like the clutch is slow to disengage or the syncros are not working well as I can't shift gear quickly. Maybe there is bigger problems with the slave cylinder.
I still would like a better shift though, I feel like the clutch is slow to disengage or the syncros are not working well as I can't shift gear quickly. Maybe there is bigger problems with the slave cylinder.
09-30-2004, 12:19 PM
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WD40 isn't good for much of anything, even less as a lubricant. A short term fix for the fork squeak is to use spray lithium grease.
Long term solution is to have the throwout bearing and clutch fork pivot points properly greased with hi-temp urea grease. From what I understand, Toyota failed to do this on many manual trannies. Mine squeaks from time to time, but I will wait until the clutch wears out, then do it right.
Long term solution is to have the throwout bearing and clutch fork pivot points properly greased with hi-temp urea grease. From what I understand, Toyota failed to do this on many manual trannies. Mine squeaks from time to time, but I will wait until the clutch wears out, then do it right.
