95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

First post, first 4Runner...finally runs!

Old Mar 28, 2004 | 11:20 AM
  #1  
Nor_Cal2ndgen's Avatar
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From: Scaramento
First post, first 4Runner...finally runs!

Well, first.....about me. I live in Sacramento, CA and I am a SmogTech. I mostly am into American cars, preferably muscle cars (FAST muscle cars!).

I was given the opportunity to buy a 1993 Runner from a customer at work who blew his engine and apparently could not afford to repair it. I picke dit up for $1000 and this thing is in SUPERB condition! He did his own oil change and proceeded to drive it prior to putting in any oil.

I pulled the engine and found I had to replace the entire block due to extensive damage done. Total cost for me to replace the block, rebuild it, rebuild the heads and get it back on the road....$1300!

So, for $2300 out of pocket I am now going to drive a super clean 4 runner.
I finished up the assembly and install just yesterday and went driving around last night. This thing rides smooth and quiet, and I feel I made an excellent investment.

Of course, it has the saggy a$$ that everyone talks about, so new springs are on the way.

Question....should I stick the SUperlift 5" kit on it? What all does the superlift kit include? Everything I need, or will I need to add to the kit? ALso, what are the biggest tires I can throw under it so that it does not ook like too MUCH tire, but yet looks like it means business! I am going to try and get a set of WELD 15x10's from a yotatech member. I prefer TSL's or Dick Cepek's.

Thanks, and GREAT site!
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Old Mar 28, 2004 | 01:27 PM
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From: Vancouver, BC
33 x 12.5 consider regearing
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Old Mar 28, 2004 | 10:02 PM
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2nd 33's

You can fit 32's without a lift but that 3.0 seems pretty under powered with anything over 31.
Nice find by the way. Lets see some pics!
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Old Mar 28, 2004 | 10:30 PM
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From: The Lone Star State
Originally Posted by Mossback74
You can fit 32's without a lift but that 3.0 seems pretty under powered with anything over 31.
Unless it was geared for 31s from the factory. The he can run 33s.

How did you manage to do the rebuild for $1300. I'm guess you did all the work yourself so labor wasn't a factor. Still, that seems awfully cheap for a rebuild on the 3.slow. Do tell how you did it.

I also enjoy fast muscle cars . But I like the dependability of Toyota for my DD.

Welcome to the board and congrats on the good investment.

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Old Mar 29, 2004 | 05:00 AM
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From: Scaramento
Originally Posted by AgRunner06
Unless it was geared for 31s from the factory. The he can run 33s.

How did you manage to do the rebuild for $1300. I'm guess you did all the work yourself so labor wasn't a factor. Still, that seems awfully cheap for a rebuild on the 3.slow. Do tell how you did it.

I also enjoy fast muscle cars . But I like the dependability of Toyota for my DD.

Welcome to the board and congrats on the good investment.



Well, I did do all the labor myself, plus since I work at one of the better shops in Sac I get a pretty good discount for parts and labor.


Machine work:
Purchase used block, crank and rods = $200
Hot tank block = $35
Bore-n-hone .030 = $65
Deck block .005 = $45
Grind and polish crank = $70
Resize Rods = $45
Align hone = $70
Valve job = $190 (includes both heads, and adjust valves, surface .005)
Engine Kit = $400 (includes EVERYTHING even new head bolts)
New fan idler assy = $149
T-belt idler = $55
Misc. = $70

Labor to assemble = FREE

Total money out of pocket = $1301

Prices quoted off of my receipts and rounded to nearest dollar.
By the looks of what it cost to build a 3.0L anywhere else, I saved myself a bundle of money.
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