I say check the salvage yards for an oil cooler set-up!!

 

That's accually not a bad idea, but what will that help with me?

 

for one, it increases engine oil capacity. Cooler oil temps (to a degree) protect from something called "thermal breakdown". Also, keeping the oil cooler keeps the entire engine @ a lower temp. AND..... If you do any towing w/ your rig, well, it's always a plus to have a engine and tranny cooler.
All in all, its a win/win situation.
I mentioned it because you're right there.... now's the time to do it. If you want.

 

Don't go getting ahead of your self there.. There are also water cooling lines that hook to the motor.. You would need to change the water pump to have the oil cooler hose port off of it. There is also a secondary cooler port on the block..You can see them here on my motor if you look close

Now just curious, What did you "add" to the motor to cause it to throw a rod?? I assume that the piston head got stuck in the block.. But what was the root cause of it do you think??

Next, I highly dobut that you could add a second oil flter to that port.. nor would I try...

 

Funny thing you should metion. When I got the water pump, I saw that cooling hose come off of it. Not till I installed it did I realize that my old water pump didn't have that. So that's not a problem. So where is the secondary cooler port? If it's on the block then I don't see why I wouldn't or couldn't put one on. Are there any benifits to having an oil cooler if you don't tow or anything like that?

If you've been to a jiffy lube they offer a "fuel system cleaning" one part is to take off the brake booster vaccume line and then suck a fairly small quantity of consentrated carb cleaner through the tube. They did this to my mom's car and it made a HUGE difference in responce and power. So, I went and found this stuff and proceeded to do this to my truck. Well I followed the directions. You suck about 5 oz. and the engine will "choke" and then sut off. You let it sit for 30 mins and then start it up. PROBLEM I had was it broke when I went to start it up. So, my theory is, the rod was weak, and when I put that stuff in it "choked" the engine and the rest of the stuff in the vaccume line drained into the middle driver's side cylinder (#3 i think) and when I went to crank it over, well you see the pictures. That's the horror story, it goes into detail, but not enough space to write!

 

Well, best I can remember it goes to the left and to the top, well somewhere over there... I would have to look to see if there is a plug or something.. If there is a plug, and you can get a cooler (Too bad.. I sold the spare one I had) I would put it on.. Too much cooling is never enough!

PS.. the hose is painted in the photo.

edit--> Here is a bigger photo for you, it does go right under the freeze plug into the block..

If you want, I can pull the fitting off my parts motor for you.. It should unscrew and you can have it for shipping..

 

That would be cool, but for now, how would you suggest that I plug that hole on the water pump until I get the part's for the oil cooler? Also, little off topic but how do you prime an engine? I've heard you disconnect the coil and then pull out the spark plugs and turn it over to build oil pressuer. Is this how you do it? or is there another way?

Also is the attached image where the secondary cooler port that you're talking about is?

 

Nope, look at the photo above.. there is a hose half painted comming off the gold cooler on the left top side.. It loops back into the motor above it..

As for the extra pipe.. Get a small section of small diameter heater hose, 2 hose clamps, and push a bolt into the end of the hose, clamp it and then clamp it onto the port...

(BTW, the hose was the old hose and was replaced with a new one before it was droped back in.. You didn't really think I would paint a hose and leave it like that do ya?? LOL)

 

OK now i see how it works. All i need is the fittings and hoses and find a oil cooler at a junk yard. After I get my engine running I'll get it set up.

Back to another question, how do you prime an engine? (get the oil up in the cylinders and all the other places)

 

Not really much you can do. the old V8 trick of turning the oil pump with a drill will not work, oil pump is on the crank.. Put a teaspoon of 30 weight in before the spark plugs and let her idle slowly untill the psi is back up.. It hurts, but she will live thru it and much worse in its life.. (it will smoke some from the oil in the plug holes so be warned..

 

Well, I had problems getting the crank pulley off, now how do you tighten it to 181 ft. lbs.!?!?! The engine just turns over so I can't get it that tight. Putting it in gear only makes the truck move forward and just put stress on the drivetrain when I go to tighten it. I can't get anything to stop the flywheel, there just isn't enough room to put anything there.

 

You need the Toyota "Special Service Tool" to hold it .. Or find a buddy with an impact gun and just hammer it on.. (PS most impacts will not over tighten it)

 

Now, I got a replacement fuel line today. It comes off of the fuel rail and then connects to a line in the passenger fender. My problem is, I cant get the stupid bolt off of the fuel rail. Any Ideas?

 

Have you tried to heat it yet?? Because that would like be really stupid...

Seriously though.. Try a large adjustiable wrench instead of the vice grips

 

My brother accually suggested using a torch on the bolt. My reply:

I acually got it off, I took a 23mm wrench, a nice size hammer, and a well placed hit. It came right off!

 

I just got done rebuilding my engine I added a good amount of lucas oil to my oil pump prior to putting on the pickup tube. I have cranked the engine by hand a couple of times so you are saying you have to start it up to prime oil through the system?